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So the front tires have started wearing fast on the inside since I put knuckles in the front springs as an experiment to see how bad the springs were sacked out. So before I replace the springs I thouhgt for $59 I'd have an alignment done. The guy calls back right away and says I need king pins , springs , shocks , Gearbox , and R inner I-beam bushing and with labor that will be $1900- 2000.
So I knew about the box and the others but nothin was said about tie rods and as old as the truck probably all bushings are in need. The way it was put I shouldn't do the king pins too big of a job for the garage so the question now is to save some $$ how long do the nylon bushings last as apposed to the bronze because I guess they need to be fitted at a shop.
This is my daily driver and down time is key. OH yeah and the Ford dealer says the bushings are no longer available from FORD.
Help me clear the air I've got to get after this thing quickly. 2WD with disc brakes.
I'd like to make that kind of money in my shop. All parts are available at about any local parts store. May have to be ordered but available. I'm not to crazy about nylon bushings, you don't get near the life out of them. As far as metal bushings are concerned, any good machine shop should be able to press and ream them for you. After that, no harder than putting the other together. I would replace all the bushings while your in there. you should be able to go thru the whole frt end for around $800.00 including the box if you shop around. Let me know if you run into a bind, been doing frt end work for about 25 yrs.
Go through Energy suspension for bushings, polyurethane will not rot and crack like rubber. Definitely use the metal bushings in the king pins. Just drop your pins and spindles at a machine shop to have fitted. As far as the gearbox goes, it can cause a wander for sure and may improve driveability but is not necessary to replace to perform an accurate front end alignment.
I think I'd probably just keep driving it, start replacing front end parts as time and budget permit. When you get all the bushings, king pins, shocks, etc. done track down your local dirt track racer buddy and borrow his caster camber gauge, check your caster and camber, then set the toe in. Nothing much easier to work on then these old bumpsides.....Lots of good books and manuals available that will take you through every task step by step with pictures. As Vin said, any competent machine shop can do the king pin bushing install and ream for you, after that it's just remove and replace worn parts...... Use the metal king pin bushings, I tried to cheap out and used the nylon one's on a buddy's '69....a year later we took it all back apart and put the good ones in.....
Find an old mechanic instead of a young parts replacer and he will be able to adjust your steering box correctly.... If it's beyond adjustment, they're easy to find used....
Is it a safe bet to use junk yard steering boxes? Also is there usually a local store to obtain urethane bushings or only specialty shops. Looking at springs everyone offers variable rate and HD springs but the HD are usually the cheaper spring. Is one a better choice over the other. I was told the price comes from demand from the customers that everyone wants the HD over the Vari rate.
The bottom line is you don't NEED any of that stuff. An alignment shop probably can't align the front end without fixing the worn parts. How do you align things that won't stay in one place? So you only need the stuff if you don't want your tires to wear. Do like Dave says and fix things as time ane money permit.
If you can get the old pins out, you can install the new brass style, though you need to take the spindles to a local machine shop and have them honed to fit new pin. Not really any more work, just need another vehicle for a day or so. Everything else is basically the same in the overall job.
If you can find another steering box, and the adjuster nut on top isn't bottomed out yet, it might last a while. Might want to price a rebuilt unit?
go the hd springs. cost wise & ford was always a little weak on the frt springs. about any parts store should be able to get urethane bushings for you. my steering box thru napa was about 200 bucks exchange.
So the front tires have started wearing fast on the inside since I put knuckles in the front springs as an experiment to see how bad the springs were sacked out. So before I replace the springs I thouhgt for $59 I'd have an alignment done. The guy calls back right away and says I need king pins , springs , shocks , Gearbox , and R inner I-beam bushing and with labor that will be $1900- 2000.
So I knew about the box and the others but nothin was said about tie rods and as old as the truck probably all bushings are in need. The way it was put I shouldn't do the king pins too big of a job for the garage so the question now is to save some $$ how long do the nylon bushings last as apposed to the bronze because I guess they need to be fitted at a shop.
This is my daily driver and down time is key. OH yeah and the Ford dealer says the bushings are no longer available from FORD.
Help me clear the air I've got to get after this thing quickly. 2WD with disc brakes.
Price is alittle high for that kind of work you can perform some of this your self have the king pins done at a shop
I've used the nylon bushings. Like every one say they don't last near as long as the bronze. But you can install them with out any special tool/reamer (machine shop). I normally got 5+ years out of the nylon bushings, with routine lube. It normally takes less that 1 hr to change the kingpin bushings.
Just change the parts as you get funds. The kingpins and tierod ends will have the most impact. The bushings if gone (or soft) will cause the truck to wonder, so they are required for good handling.
You can set the toe end your self using a tape measure and a marker. Just measure front to back difference on the tires. Spin the tires and mark it all the way around. If you have the wheels jacked up, you will need to put back on ground and roll to get every thing to settle.
since this is a daily driver, It might be easier to find a extra set of I Beams
and nuckles and do the pins and all that off the truck. This is of course depends on if you can find the parts to begin with.
If you are considering more moderen disc brakes this method might even make it simple to convert to disc braks if you havent already.