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Rear lift gate

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Old 04-22-2008, 01:11 PM
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Rear lift gate

Rear lift gate does not lock and I replaced the lock actuator to no avail. The actuator attempts to move the part it is connected to but it does not move to lock/unlock. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 04-22-2008, 03:57 PM
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What happens when you use the key?
 
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:49 PM
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key doesn't work

The key will not lock/unlock either. You can insert the key and move it a little but it does not lock it. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:36 PM
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I bet you the latch/lock mechanism itself is gummed up. When I replaced the actuator, I cleaned it. (Im talking about the complicated looking goldish-metal device that the actuator, lock rod, handle, and latches connect to)

Its been a while since I did this, so I apologize if its a little vague, but it should be pretty self explanatory. Also, I don't know the age of your X, but the plastic is probably a few years old at least and brittle, so be gentle with any plastic parts.

• Disconnect the various cables and the lock rod. The cables are pretty stout and should have enough memory to make it pretty obvious where to connect them back, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to mark them if 2 go to a similar place ( I can't remember exactly)
• Unbolt the assembly (think there are 3 or 4 nuts). BRFORE you remove it, CAREFULLY look at EXACTLY how the assembly fits in, and be careful to note how you pull it out (it may take some jiggling, because its a tight fit) The only reason I say to take note of how you take it out is because I spent probably 30 min trying to find just the right way to put it back in when I was done and almost pulled my hair out before it finally slipped right in. If you line it up right, it just kind of slips in without much force at all, so if it doesn't slide right in at first, just keep jiggling with it, and it will. (I don't drink (I'm 18), but I've heard it is times like these when it may be appropriate to have a few of your favorite brews handy to make putting it back in a little easier )
• Anyway, now that you have it out, spray it thoroughly with WD40. (I wouldn't use anything stronger than that because the mechanism has some rubber and plastic parts in it) As you spray it, put its through its paces, and move all the levers and mechanisms to work the WD40 through and the old grease out. Do this a few times until it moves freely (or at least as freely as it can)
• Then let it dry and lube it back up. I use an aerosol white lithium grease with teflon. Spray the moving parts pretty liberally because I'm sure you don't want to do this all the time.
• Put it back in, bolt it down, and re-attach everything. You should be good!

Hope that helps.


btw msreb, I noticed this is your first thread, so welcome to the boards!
 
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:50 AM
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Thanks

I really appreciate the help. Will try it tonight and let you know.
 
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:32 AM
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same issue...

Mine does this also (and the drivers' door too) so I will be interested in knowing the outcome
 
  #7  
Old 04-23-2008, 08:14 PM
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Yeah, I hope it works for you too.

I bet dirty actuator linkages are probably one of the reasons the actuators fail in the first place. The dirtier the actuator gets, the tougher it gets to move, so the extra force required probably fries the actuators faster. I don't know if its true or not but it makes sense...
 
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