Nagging overheating problem
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
Flatmotors sometimes need to be burpped, several ways to do this.
This one does not include lifting 1700+ lbs over your shoulder.
Take out the Thermostats and drill a 1/8 hole in the very top just below the lip.
This will allow the air to move and other things to flow.
This one does not include lifting 1700+ lbs over your shoulder.
Take out the Thermostats and drill a 1/8 hole in the very top just below the lip.
This will allow the air to move and other things to flow.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
If you hold the thermostat up to the light, and look at the seat area, you'lll 9 times out of 10 see that the seat has scallops in it to allow a small bypass flow and allow air to burp.
Bob, did this truck/engine ever run cool? I wonder if your gauge is just whacked?
Bob, did this truck/engine ever run cool? I wonder if your gauge is just whacked?
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,292
Likes: 8
From: sparta ky.
Bobj49f2,if you have a heater in your truck put a T in a heater hose, attach a piece of hose off the T that you can hold HIGHER than any point of the engine, you can run your engine, water will not come out of hose but it will act as a bleeder for you coolant system, try this and put a bolt or something in hose to block hose and see if it helps.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
Bobj49f2,if you have a heater in your truck put a T in a heater hose, attach a piece of hose off the T that you can hold HIGHER than any point of the engine, you can run your engine, water will not come out of hose but it will act as a bleeder for you coolant system, try this and put a bolt or something in hose to block hose and see if it helps.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,887
Likes: 3,129
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Ross,
I never had the engine running on the road. I bought the engine and chassis as a rebuilt unit. It was in inside storage for a while, I don't know how long, before I bought. I got it home, threw my first panel truck's body on it and put in my shop and pretty much left it sit a year or so. I occasionally ran it but never for any length of time. Last year I swapped the other panel's body on it and rewired it, that's when I saw that it overheated, I was going by the stock dash gauge. I also thought it got physically hot so I started chasing the possible reasons. Maybe it didn't overheat, the gauge could have been the problem but being that it's a flattie and hearing all of the problem with them being damaged by overheating I got concerned.
While operating normally does your engine seem to get hot? I could just be paranoid. I want to make sure I don't damage the engine.
Garry,
Right now the truck doesn't have a heater. When I got it it had a gasoline heater, it must be something with panel trucks, my other panel also had a gasoline heater. Your idea is very interesting, I could do something like that without the heater by rigging up a hose in the sensor ports somehow, I'll to think of something.
I never had the engine running on the road. I bought the engine and chassis as a rebuilt unit. It was in inside storage for a while, I don't know how long, before I bought. I got it home, threw my first panel truck's body on it and put in my shop and pretty much left it sit a year or so. I occasionally ran it but never for any length of time. Last year I swapped the other panel's body on it and rewired it, that's when I saw that it overheated, I was going by the stock dash gauge. I also thought it got physically hot so I started chasing the possible reasons. Maybe it didn't overheat, the gauge could have been the problem but being that it's a flattie and hearing all of the problem with them being damaged by overheating I got concerned.
While operating normally does your engine seem to get hot? I could just be paranoid. I want to make sure I don't damage the engine.
Garry,
Right now the truck doesn't have a heater. When I got it it had a gasoline heater, it must be something with panel trucks, my other panel also had a gasoline heater. Your idea is very interesting, I could do something like that without the heater by rigging up a hose in the sensor ports somehow, I'll to think of something.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 2
From: Seattle WA.
I had the same problem with my Flathead 6 overheating and puking prior to my changing the thermostat and heater core.The old heater core was all plugged up and leaking. I drilled a hole in the thermostat like the one pictured. Sense that time (a year ago) I haven't had to add any water and it has not overheated at all.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Bob, it's really tough to gauge by "feel". With the head's surface right there, they "feel" hotter than an OHV which has the valve cover to insulate things. Best to trust a (mechanical) gauge .
I used to own a Saab model that was known to be chronically air-bound, because the heater was higher than the engine. The trick I heard on an old Saab newsletter (pre-internet) was to drill a hole in the top of the heater outlet tube where it would be covered by the hose clamp. When filling, you pull the hose off enough to expose the hole, then push it all the way on when the air is burped.
I used to own a Saab model that was known to be chronically air-bound, because the heater was higher than the engine. The trick I heard on an old Saab newsletter (pre-internet) was to drill a hole in the top of the heater outlet tube where it would be covered by the hose clamp. When filling, you pull the hose off enough to expose the hole, then push it all the way on when the air is burped.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,013
Likes: 9,953
From: Rio Rancho, NM
The trick I heard on an old Saab newsletter (pre-internet) was to drill a hole in the top of the heater outlet tube where it would be covered by the hose clamp. When filling, you pull the hose off enough to expose the hole, then push it all the way on when the air is burped.
Great tip!! I worked on alot of the early 90's GM cars where the radiator filler was lower than the thermostats. It was always heck to "burp" the darn things. GM eventually got to where they installed an air bleed valve on the thermostat housings.
Bob. sounds to me like you have some gauge issues and the engine is running fine. Add an overflow tank to the system so that when it does get hot and expand and push coolant out you can keep it and it will pull it back in. You might try a new cap as well.
Good luck
Bobby
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,887
Likes: 3,129
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I'll try moving the sensors around tonight and rigging up some kind of burping device. I wish there were two ports on each head then I could have two mechical sensors, one for each side, to monitor the temp on both sides.
I want an original type radiator cap so I will be getting one from a local reproduction parts deal this weekend when I go to the state's 2nd biggest swapmeet. I'm making a list of parts I need and taking it with me. That is if gas doesn't reach $4 by the weekend, that's my cut off point that will determine if I go or not.
There might be a added benefit to the high gas prices, maybe a lot of people won't go so it will be less crowded and there might be some bargains. On the other hand, maybe everyone with think the same and show up, making it more crowded than normal.
I want an original type radiator cap so I will be getting one from a local reproduction parts deal this weekend when I go to the state's 2nd biggest swapmeet. I'm making a list of parts I need and taking it with me. That is if gas doesn't reach $4 by the weekend, that's my cut off point that will determine if I go or not.
There might be a added benefit to the high gas prices, maybe a lot of people won't go so it will be less crowded and there might be some bargains. On the other hand, maybe everyone with think the same and show up, making it more crowded than normal.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,292
Likes: 8
From: sparta ky.
Bob , You can take any water port and hook up a hose, I have a -----LT1 in my truck and those engines are reverse flow cooling systems and you have to bleed them or they will trap air and run hot, lots of luck, mine runs really cool but i carry a battery operated temp sensor all the time just to be sure, Garry
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
Bob
The sensor on the passenger side is the veriable resistance type that makes the gage move up and down.
The sensor on the drivers side is an open/close type that basically says Oh ! I'm overheating, pull over.
What most old Farts do is install two passenger side switches with a two way fiddle switch so you can monitor both sides, Or get Two SW gages in one of thos under dash mount doohickies and - Bob'd your ah ah Self.
The sensor on the passenger side is the veriable resistance type that makes the gage move up and down.
The sensor on the drivers side is an open/close type that basically says Oh ! I'm overheating, pull over.
What most old Farts do is install two passenger side switches with a two way fiddle switch so you can monitor both sides, Or get Two SW gages in one of thos under dash mount doohickies and - Bob'd your ah ah Self.