For some reason the passenger side exhaust manifold on my 93 F150, 2WD, 5.0L has popped a couple of the manifold bolts and now it sounds like a tank.

Next weekend I am going to attempt to remove the exhaust manifold and replace the manifold studs. (Why did it have to be the passenger side, why). Not the easiest side to work on.

My question is. Does anyone know what size the manifold studs are? I went to a local car parts store and they said I would have to bring a sample in for them to match them up. I don't really want to get into the middle of taking the manifold out and then have to drive to find that they don't have the size I am looking for.

Also, if anyone has any tips on removing the manifold, I am all ears.

Thanks

Red

 

One tip (which is obvious once you've done it once) - remove the inner fender well, that will improve your access about 500%.

Not sure of the bolt/stud size - can you remove one before you really get into the job for reference?

 

These are the ones you want for the manifold to y-pipe.
NAPAONLINE®

This is what you need for the manifold to to block.
NAPAONLINE®

 

Thanks Alz. I will give it a whirl.

Red

 

According to Summit Racing, the header to block bolts are 3/8-16 inch. The thread size wouldn't be any different. You just need to have longer bolts for every other bolt since the manifold is shaped the way it is. Also, you need to have 3 studs that will allow you to put the upper intake bracket, coil bracket, and dipstick bracket back into place.

Since we are on this topic, I have a question. About a year ago, I tried to install BBK shorty headers on my truck and 2 of the exhaust manifold studs broke off. The BBKs didn't fit properly, so I sent them back. I reinstalled the manifolds. I did replace all of the manifold to block and to Y pipe hardware except for the 2 broken ones and reinstalled the manifolds. I want to install a set of Hedman shorty headers that I have. I am not going to install them unless I know I can get the broken studs out. I don't want them to leak. How can I get the broken studs out?

 

there are multiple ways to do this, depending on the exact situation.

In my order of preference:

- I'm assuming the there isn't enough stud to get a pair of vice grips on (that would be my first pref!)

- If the studs broke off due to stress and were not rusted in, then drilling them and using an easy-out to back them out is worth a try. This works well when the studs aren't really stuck in the holes, there's just a lack of stud to get a hold of.

- If you have some amount of stud above the the machined surface, place a nut over the part sticking out and weld the nut to the stud, then back out the stud using the nut.

- If you can drill out the hole exactly, you can then clean the threads with a tap. This isn't easy to do unless you really have good access, 'cause the hole has to be dead nuts on center.

- If you can get a decent hole through the stud, you can use a, acetylene torch to heat the stud and blow out the slag. You need to be good with a torch though, and have patience. The trick is to keep the stud material much hotter than the head, so if the head heats up to much, you got let it sit and cool. This, in conjunction with a tap can save you pulling the head.

- Pull the head and take it to a machine shop.


I'm sure there are some FTE'ers here that can add some other methods...

Good luck!

 

a method you can use for ensuring you are drilling the existing bolts in the dead center is to buy a bolt that is the same diameter and use a drill press or have a machine shop drill a 1/8" or 3/16" hole all the way through the bolt lengthwise and place it in the existing manifold hole as far as it will go before you take it off. This will act as a guide to drill in the dead center of the broken bolt and then hopefully with lots of penetrating oil and possibly a little heat you should be able to use an easy out. I haven't used it yet although I have 1 broken stud. I do know someone that re and re'd 3 of them on his Bronco with this method. Best of luck

 

I really need a method that can be done from inside the engine compartment.

Yeah Herdsman, there isn't enough to grab on to with vise grips. Otherwise, I would have definitely gone with that method. There might be enough sticking out to do the welded nut method. That sounds like a good idea.

Dsums,
That does sound like a good way to do it though.

 

Yes! I like the sound of that. I'll remember this one...

 

Sorry I hijacked your thread RedBandit.

 

Pull the inner fender out to get better access. to ex manifold bolts/studs.

 

I had one broken just below flush with the block. I had a guy melt it and blew the slag out. We tapped it and it worked out rather well. Now that the drivers side is fixed, I can hear the passenger side leaking. Good luck with the manifold!

 

We have the same hedman shortys, I had mine installed about a year ago we were all happy that the drivers side bolts came out with no probs. untill we got to the passenger side every thing was great untill wouldint you know it it was the last bolt in the back snap at that time we just bolted every thing up and left it the way it was that lasted three months untill my truck started souding like a "Steam Train" driving down the highway lol. I orderd some "Percy" hedder gaskets and my mechanic jacked the truck up and drilled out the broken stud and tapped it. Everything is cool know it took him three days to repar it.

 

Everyones saying pull the inner fender well..
There's alot of crap bolted to that. (On my truck anyways.)
Well there WAS. I pulled all of it off for the wheeling truck.


On my truck somebody cut out so you can get to with a couple extensions and an air wrench.

Use an air wrench on it if possible, it will keep the bolts from breaking. When you put a wrench on it your more than likely to snap off the bolts.

 

I had to pull the inner fender well on the passenger side of mine,my truck is tall I am short,there was no getting to it from the top even with the step stool i use to work on the engine. I just took the tire off,put the axle on a jack stand,and removed the inner fender well,took all of 15 minutes to take it off. I didn't break any bolts,but I will say they were not easy to get out and I had to use air power even though i didn't want to. Just got my truck running yesterday after putting long tube headers on it,and it was well worth the effort!!