I have had problems with chugging, low power with my '06, 6.0 F-350 FX with 6 speed stick (3.73). My dealership hasn't had a certified diesel tech for months. My new service manager did get an engineer to come ride with me. We pulled my flatbed gooser with 6 tons of hay on it about 18 miles. It was a warm beautiful day, and like a coughing 6 year old, it wouldn't bark when the doctor was in the house. He did drive it himself for a bit, open up the turbo viens, and shut them back down, measure the boost generated, and give me afew pointers. He is currently driving an F-450 with the 6.4 auto. His explainations were nothing I haven't heard here. 1. I should have bought an auto if I planned on pulling. The torque converter provides more low end grunt shifted down to start the load. 2. I drive it like an old fashioned diesel, and I need to rev it more before shifting. The torqueshift doesn't let the 6.0 rpms to drop below 1800. I ususally shift around 19-2000 rpms. That is just what sounds right to me. He first started out, and took the truck to nearly 4,000 rpms. I was a bit torqued off at this, and told him my truck hadn't even seen 3,000 rpms until now. He told me that there is no red line on the tach, and that it wouldn't run away and blow up like a gasser. "Drive it like I stole it" was mentioned. Running under 1600 was lugging it in his opinion. 3. He said that the old antigel additives do not work well at all with the new ultr low sulfur fuel. Use 50/50 #1, #2 in the winter, and don't use soy (in the winter). 4. Use a cetane boost at least once a month. He advised me to do it every tank with the loads I pull, and the setup I purchased.

The dealership will put on a new high pressure old sensor and pull the egr. I found the engineer to be resonable, and very informative. I am a bit upset that I have the wrong setup in a truck I hoped to have for many years, but I am not upset with Ford. I am disappointed that my sales staff didn't know that the transmission that wouldn't hold up in my '02 wasn't the same one in the '06 auto. I have been told repeatedly that the manual in my truck was a smart move for pulling. If I only had twin turbos!!!

Thanks for all the advice on this issue. I did trade off my old trailers for ones that pull easier. Aluminun...even a chevy could pull it!

 

How about changing the gears from 3.73 to 4.10? That would really help for towing... I had 3.73's in my previous 6.0 and it is night and day compared to the 4.30's. The 6.0 likes to run at higher rpm's and 4.10 (or 4.30) gears could be a relatively inexpensive yet very effective mod. I am not sure if I buy the theory that the manual isn't good for towing--> IMO You need different gears for pulling big

 

With single axle, I couldn't get another gear choice from Ford. Which ratio would you choose, and how much would the mod be?

 

If you are not revving up to 2500 to 3200 while towing you will be sluggish! Rev tht thing up, it's not an inline 6 semi truck!! The engineer was right, you need to get it into the powerband more and it will respond much better!! I rev mine to 3000 every time I drive mine, even when not towing. I'd run it to at least 2500 before every shift!

You don't need gears at all, you just are lugging the motor too much! You could rev that motor at 3200rpms all day and night and wouldn't harm the motor at all!

 

1 Ton - your motor is designed to pull hard, auto or manual, if you look at the torque curve, you should be revving it more when pulling. I agree with short shifting at 1800 to 2000 RPM when not loaded trying to get mileage, but when you are pulling and want power, you need to run it up a bit more. Pulling at high boost under 2000 RPM is just going to pound out the bottom end of your motor, if you are below 1600 rpm especially. Its designed to rev. I wouldnt want to pull at over 4000 RPM but if you are pulling a good hill at 2600, even 3000 with 20 lbs of boost, you are going to be much more satisfied with the power than pulling the same hill 1 or 2 higher gears at less than 2000 rpm. I cant see what you have in your gallery or sig but I think if you change your style a bit you will see what a monster you really have. I wouldnt trade it for an auto, just shift different depending on load and performance you can get what you want. I have an auto, I watch it shift and control it with the go peddle. You have more to do but more control also. On significant hills in Tow haul mine will shift down and stay above 2200 rpm and 20 lbs of boost. If you try shifting to a gear where you are over 2500 rpm and higher boost i bet you will hold that gear over any hill. The boost might be as high as 28 lbs but you will be holding your speed. I find if you are hitting the bottom at the speed you want with the boost already holding, it will hold that gear easily even if the hill gets steeper. So, give it a try. Only thing the 4.10 will do is mean instead of running 5th on the hills you might hit 6th, which will cost you bucks. I miss having a manual, so, experiment and give it a work out. The engineers pointers on fuel additives are accurate. You have to excersize that variable geometry turbo and pulling a load and working it is the best thing for it!

 

I had the same situation with my 06 and got all the same responses..
Although I don't tow anything it was just everyday driving that was bothering me.
The local diesel expert the dealer has explained exactly the same thing as the Ford Egineer did..
I have been reving it to about 2k before shifting and have seen a big improvement..
I do want to mention that I had an issue with the gas pedal and after they replaced it, I saw another slight improvement in throttle response... Even my son said it was better..

Maybe they could check that out for you.. Mine was bindingand was more noticeable in cold weather..

 

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I think the engineer gave you good advice, except that there is nothing wrong with your manual transmission. Don't let that get you down. Rev it up like everyone else has said, and don't feel like you need to get an auto tranny. Lots of guys won't take anything but a manual.Bill

 

I wish I had a 6 speed everytime I tow so don't feel bad, they work great. The auto is very nice for me as a daily driver though. Good advise on keeping the revs up a bit when towing, especially heavy. These 6.0's like to be opened up thats for sure. Too bad fuel prices are so high. I'm keeping my foot out of it most of the time. It's a shame.

 

I can't speak to the towing issue as I run empty almost all the time. I have the auto and once I get over 45 MPH it will shift into top gear and TC lock. The engine will drop to about 1300 rpm at that speed and as long as I don't drop below 45 the tranny will stay there. If I hit a decent hill it will unlock and drop a gear, but on the highway it's at 2000 rpm at 70 MPH... I get 18-19 MPG driving this way. Are you guys saying push it a little harder and that will improve?

I am running Matt's General Economy tune and 285/75R16 Terra Grapplers, if that makes a difference.

 

i generally keep my revs down, even while towing and don't have any problems, except maybe going a bit slow. pulled around 10k through some fairly hilly terrain north of here and cruised at 62 in OD doing right at 1800 and she didn't sputter a bit. but the tech at the dealer said the same thing you just heard - they like to be driven harder, or at least to periodically blow 'em out by wrapping it up good.

 

I agree with the other posts, with no load you are driving it right but with the loads you are pulling you need more RPM. This engine makes peak torque @ 2000RPM and peak HP @3300RPM. So with a load you should be cruising at 2000RPM minimum and when accelerating running it higher where it is generating more power.

I've got a 6spd too and I dont notice my boost comming on until 1500-1600RPM so it should run like a dog with a big load at those RPMs and under