Spot welds ??
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Utah
Spot welds ??
I need to remove the bedsides from the front peice (51 F-1). I have removed the top two bolts and drilled out the 4 rivets down the side. it still wont come apart. If the two peices where spot welded also I would think I could see the dimples of the welds and possibly drill at those locations to get it apart without destroying anything?? help
Thanks
Josh
Thanks
Josh
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Michigan
I believe that they did also spot weld the bedsides to the front panel, or at least that was the case on my 52 F-3 (8ft bed). I used a bit specifically for drilling out spot welds to get them apart. Basically a spot well bit is a drill bit that cuts a flush bottom hole allowing you to just drill through one of the metal layers (not both).. makes it easy to plug weld everything back together later too. Eastwood Company sell this kind of bit.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Josh,
They do make special drill bits for drilling spot welds. You might be able to find them at a paint and body shop supply store.
Are you trying to save the two pieces that are welded together? Save one side? if one of the pieces isnt going to be saved I've had great luck with using the edge of a regular grinding wheel in a 4 1/2 angle grinder. Apply it right to the "dimple" and grind through a bit. Usually you can pry the pieces apart with just a small amount of grinding
Bobby
They do make special drill bits for drilling spot welds. You might be able to find them at a paint and body shop supply store.
Are you trying to save the two pieces that are welded together? Save one side? if one of the pieces isnt going to be saved I've had great luck with using the edge of a regular grinding wheel in a 4 1/2 angle grinder. Apply it right to the "dimple" and grind through a bit. Usually you can pry the pieces apart with just a small amount of grinding
Bobby
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Grande Prairie, Alberta
If you aren't in a huge rush, I'd tend to agree that he spot weld bits are the way to go. But it seems that the real question is more to do with the location of the spot welds. Take a wire wheel to the seams where the spot welds are suspect and then the dimples should show up.
The only other way would be to pry the two pieces apart until the dimple shows, but you run the risk of warping the pieces and creating a bunch of extra work for yourself.
The only other way would be to pry the two pieces apart until the dimple shows, but you run the risk of warping the pieces and creating a bunch of extra work for yourself.
If you use it, SUPPORT IT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,595
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From: Indiana
And results of one: Photo
Either side is fine, but take into consideration which side would be easiest to work from, both drilling and welding back up.
I've used the spot weld drill bits a lot - they cut around the spot weld, leaving a hole in one piece, and the spot weld itself in the other side. Easy to either weld or even braze back together. I wouldn't do it any other way...
R
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: northwestern Ontario
I've personally have not had much luck with that kind of spot weld cutter, I find that they break to easily, so I bought a spot weld cutter from snap -on , not a wise move either because it is limited in reaching all the areas that you would like it to, but the bit profile is what makes it work so well. I have made my own bits out of a high speed drill bits, shaping the tip much like a brad point bit, flat but leaving the sharp little point so that it doesn't walk all over the panel while drilling the spot welds, it's very easy to sharpen on the edge of a dressed grinding wheel on your bench grinder.Sorry if I got carried away
typing.
John
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I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Northshore, MN
Agreed, the pictured Northern Tool spot weld bit isn't optimum, but the price is nice. It tends to walk, and the teeth edges break off easily. Two things to do to help,
1: use a springloaded center punch to mark the location you want to drill so that the bit doesn't walk.
2.Use a cutting oil to ensure longer teeth life. I just fill a cap from a motor oil quart and dip the bit into it before each hole.
Drill Slow!!
This is the one I like.....less likely to break. May be slower, though. Eastwood Co. - Spotweld Drill 3/8" Pro
1: use a springloaded center punch to mark the location you want to drill so that the bit doesn't walk.
2.Use a cutting oil to ensure longer teeth life. I just fill a cap from a motor oil quart and dip the bit into it before each hole.
Drill Slow!!
This is the one I like.....less likely to break. May be slower, though. Eastwood Co. - Spotweld Drill 3/8" Pro
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Joe Kucinski
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Here's the drill I use. It is part of a set I have. Still sharp with no chips out of it. I like the 5/16" for most every spotweld I have found.
Use cutting (motor) oil like havi said and use LOW rpm and HIGH pressure.
Use cutting (motor) oil like havi said and use LOW rpm and HIGH pressure.
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,475
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From: northwestern Ontario
the bit Havi mentioned is like the blue point bit I have from Snap-on,is very good. The one that Randy mentioed is very similar to the one I ground from a hss bit and I have had very good results with.