Differential Choices
Thx.
> when the hubs are unlocked, right?
Sort of, but, using it that way at highway speeds would not be good.
> Do I want to keep a LS differential in the back?
Open with a selectable locker or a L/S selectable locker.
> Currently the rear has a 410 Limited Slip. Do I want LS all around? W
Selectable lockers all around if you can afford it, especially in ice and snow.
I would use the E-Locker or ARB so you could switch the front locking diff. out for most of your off road and on-road (snow, ice, boat ramp) driving.
If you have a detroit locker in front, engage the driver's side hub, put it in 2x4 and go for a drive and tell me how the steering feels at 55 mph. Even worse for a 4x4 van.
I want to add either a limit slip or locking differential to either both front and back or just back. From reading on the topic it seems there are multiple options, but I am struggling determining what is best for me.
My situation:
90% of the time I am driving on dry pavement (which makes the open diff just fine). The other 10% of the time I am not doing any aggressive off-roading, however even if I am off road or in the snow I want to ensure I am in a position to have the most traction available.
My goal is to find the most reliable / flexible option available. For example, ideally (if it exists) I am thinking a high quality locking / limit slip / open diff all in one that can be set to the desired option. I will not beat/abuse this vehicle so I want it to last the life of the truck as the stock diff. should.
Questions:
- If I have the locking option is there any value in having limit slip? I read several posts about front locking being a bad thing when turning in the snow due to vehicle not responding as expected, which I understand. For this reason it seems the selectable limit slip option would be best in front. Feedback?
- I see so many options (i.e. ARB, Eaton G80, TruTrac, etc.). Any recommendations for my situation?
- I have seen aftermarket diff. gear installations in the past where the gears would whine. I understand some (or maybe all) of this could be the fault of the installer not setting the bearing preload / gear backlash, etc. correctly. I would want the new diffs. to be no noisier than the existing stock (which are quiet). Is that a realistic expectation? Any experience between aftermarket diff. options on which one is the quietest?
- Will a new diff. have a potential impact on the vehicle's existing traction control system? I am more concerned with the system triggering a "check engine light" if it detects a condition that is abnormal to what the stock vehicle would see.
- By converting to a new diff. what components are impacted? What stock components would / could be reused?
- I read a post where someone said if you have an open diff and the tire with less traction is spinning, applying the brake (in moderation) will sort of act like a limit slip and help deliver more power to the wheel with traction. Does this sound accurate?
- Is it justified to modify both front and rear diffs? What about something different between back and front? Maybe limit slip in front and locking in rear? Again I want the option to switch each back to an open diff style for dry pavement driving conditions?
- What is the best way to search for/find a "true" professional that could perform the installation? Would the manufacturer's of the aftermarket diff's be able to suggest the "right" person?
Thanks
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Power transfer is seamless, no jerk or rachet feeling.
Just wish they made them for my D50 up front. I'd install one in a heartbeat.
Just my 2 cents
Todd
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