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engine clearance and offset ?

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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 01:43 PM
  #1  
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engine clearance and offset ?

ok here it goes , I am having a couple clearance issues in the motor dept. I have a 351w with aod trans and a mustang II front susp with a flaming river rack . I am having issues with front to back clearance ,rack sits higher than x member and rear sump pan clears the x member but not the rack so Icant go forward more and I only have about an eighth inch at the firewall and a sixteenth at the rack that is with the rack spaced out 5/8 already but if I offset the motor 1 1/2 inches it puts the motor more in the recess of the firewall and gives me plenty of room . can I offset it or does that hurt anything else .


do these offset measurements sound right
frame wid. at front pulley - 32" half = 16 - 1.5 " = 14.5' from pass fr. rail
frame width at rear of trans- 33.5'" half= 16.75- 1.5" =15.25 " "
8' rearend is close to center maybe just slightly towards pass side is this ok shaft will run at a slight angle

sorry if confusing any help appreciated
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 02:20 PM
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I wouldn’t think a 1 ½ inch offset would be serious.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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A lot of folks with the stock or Volrae steering routinely offset the motor more than you propose to get clearance at their driver side headers. I don't see a problem doing what you want here.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 05:46 PM
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Offset

I am using 302 in my '50 F1; MII and AOD. I offset my motor and tranny 1.5" to passenger side; pan clears, had issues with steering and motor mount but I fabbed mount to allow it to clear.

Tom
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 06:32 PM
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I went two inches with the Volare and it was no problem

I can't imagine you having clearance problems with a SB

I'm using a 460 and went this way with a relief in the crossmember



later
John
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 06:33 PM
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Mine is offset 2" to the pass side with absolutely no problem at all. You should be ok.
PS: I use the exploder rear and it goes 105 MPH with no vibes at 3 degree pinion.
Jon
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 08:06 PM
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John, I want to eat off yer frame. And jon, that's assuring knowing this. My hopes are to maintain that speed without worry.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 12:57 AM
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Havi, we will need to remaind the guys that a 1" offset from the driver side will equal a
2" difference when measured. I really believe the most important thing here would be the pinion angle. Keeping in mind that I have the Exploder which is already offset. I have also noticed that a lot of 53-56 owners have not realized that the firewall is already offset to the right (pass ) side from factory. Not noticable until you measure it. Seems offsets are nothing out of the ordinary in a lot of vehicles.
Jon
 
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 09:22 AM
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thanks you for the responses and info ,do the measurments sound right , i just keep it square with the frame rail right? not sure if i got it right because the frame width changes but it should be ok becuase I am measuring from center on both ends correct ? the shaft at a slight angle wont bother?
again thanks for the help.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 09:30 AM
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Yes, keep the crank centerline parallel with the center of the frame. That will result in the same offset angle at the tranny and pinion when viewed from the top, a perfectly acceptable situation AFA the U joints are considered. A lot of vehicles are built with the engine and/or pinion location offset from side to side at the factory.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 09:42 AM
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I don't know what you're using for a tranny mount but No-Limit Engineering sells an offset tranny mount. I used one of their mounts on my truck and it saved a lot of fabrication hassle...
 
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 09:55 AM
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thanks AX and GNW so the rear pinion at an offset of about an inch more toward center than the tailshaft is ok . GNW thanks for the info but I already have a custom x member ready I can just offset my mounting plate .
 
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 10:44 AM
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Mod22, I also put the 351/AOD combo in mine, It is very tight without the offset. IAm I reading correctly , you have 1/16" clearence ,oilpan to rack? Seems a bit close IMHO.Might want to give that drivetrain some wiggle-room,solid urethane engine mounts? The rubber ones move alot...then tend to "sqaush" or sag later, leaving you in a different place than when you started.
I used a 351 block into a mustang fox body conversion oilpan,..
ended upwith the front sump( which wraps around the oilpump),
being alot tighter around the pump..allowing a little more clearence at the rack/crossmember area...and also allowed the engine to drop down a little bit more. The steering IS tight though at the header,
an offset if it doesn't bother you WILL make life easier.Just my .02$
Good Luck!!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 05:28 PM
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perhaps old hat already, but here's a link to my 400 in the F1 frame. The frame mounts are '79 factory, and centered equidistant on the frame, yet the crank bolt is offset to the Pass. side a couple inches. This shows that Ford offset the motor in 4x4's in the 1970's. https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...157525&width=2
 
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 10:37 PM
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No problem with your horizontal offset between tailshaft and pinion. Where novice builders get in trouble is when they think they should point the tailshaft at the pinion, angling the engine. A lot of 4x4s have a very strong offset to clear the front driveshaft.
 
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