my new rig
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: elizabeth,co
my new rig
IMG]http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn291/spazinweasel/1995ps.jpg[/IMG]
long time member and ford owner but its my newest its a powersmoke zf 5 with a cool electric fold down seat!! and conversion van like innereds. i need to put a 3-4 shift fork in it, can i do this without completely removing the trans? and also there is a fuel leak at the rear of the motor what are the common things to look for here? thank you all
long time member and ford owner but its my newest its a powersmoke zf 5 with a cool electric fold down seat!! and conversion van like innereds. i need to put a 3-4 shift fork in it, can i do this without completely removing the trans? and also there is a fuel leak at the rear of the motor what are the common things to look for here? thank you all
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: elizabeth,co
they are nice, i like it, you havennt had any problems withit have you?
i also have an electric fold down bed that needs some work. have any ideas? should i get the stuff from a van or is there a shop? thank you
i also have an electric fold down bed that needs some work. have any ideas? should i get the stuff from a van or is there a shop? thank you
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
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From: New Jersey
To replace forks you're taking the trans out, but it's really not that difficult to get it in and out. I've done it a few times by myself without any assistance.
Park the truck and chock the wheels, then disconnect the u-joint at the back of the trans. The driveshaft on a crewcab longbed will have a enough "slip" in it's length you can pull the yoke back a few inches and clear the tranny crossmember and move it out of the way.
Remove the shifter by removing the four bolts that are on the perimeter of the shifter hold down collar (from inside the cab).
Then, you put a floorjack underneath the trans, more to the front, then remove the crossmember and the tranny tail mounting block from the trans. Six bolts total.
Then you remove the bolts in the bellhousing, and disconnect the clutch line on the driver's side. This line removes with a special tool, however you can use a crescent wrench if it's narrow enough. It's almost like a quick-fitting as far as how it works. It also automatically seals itself when disconnected so you won't lose all your fluid in the line/tank above.
Wiggle the trans back, then work it down and out lowering it slightly here and there with the floor jack. Once you have it off the back of the engine, drag it off the floorjack and onto a moving dolly to get it out from under the truck so you can work on it.
installation is the reverse.
Park the truck and chock the wheels, then disconnect the u-joint at the back of the trans. The driveshaft on a crewcab longbed will have a enough "slip" in it's length you can pull the yoke back a few inches and clear the tranny crossmember and move it out of the way.
Remove the shifter by removing the four bolts that are on the perimeter of the shifter hold down collar (from inside the cab).
Then, you put a floorjack underneath the trans, more to the front, then remove the crossmember and the tranny tail mounting block from the trans. Six bolts total.
Then you remove the bolts in the bellhousing, and disconnect the clutch line on the driver's side. This line removes with a special tool, however you can use a crescent wrench if it's narrow enough. It's almost like a quick-fitting as far as how it works. It also automatically seals itself when disconnected so you won't lose all your fluid in the line/tank above.
Wiggle the trans back, then work it down and out lowering it slightly here and there with the floor jack. Once you have it off the back of the engine, drag it off the floorjack and onto a moving dolly to get it out from under the truck so you can work on it.
installation is the reverse.
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From: elizabeth,co
awesome thanks. ill be doin this tomarow weather permitting hopfully ill have the money for the repair
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