Ok first I did a about a ten min browse in the 460 engine forum for help, but I not sure if those guy are talking about trucks or not , something about lincolns?
Anyway I want to change the motor mounts on my truck. Truck make and Info below. I have had a vibration in the truck and 2 friends confirm its a broke mount plus possible broke bolt although that has not been confimed yet but was warned that it might be possibly both a broke mount and bolt. I have bought the exact mount pads and block mounts from ford and I'm ready to go. I got 2 sets because I might as well do the other side while I'm under there. Ford parts guy said I'l have to match up any bolts I want to replace because they no longer carry the bolt kit. I was thinking of going with grade 8 bolts anyway. not sure what the bolts are now. I have a reliable jack that can more than lift the motor up from the pan. I was told I might need some 2x6's to support the motor while its diconnected. From looking under the motor, it looks like one "motor perch" rivited piece is attached to the frame that is, well rivited and not to be removed, the other looks like its possibly bolt on. It looks like I have 5 to 6 in of space before my intake man. will touch the firewall. Transmission looks like it has some space above it too. Thats what I know so far.
I have never done motor mounts on anything before so any comments/advice you guys could give would be great before I start. Thanks

 

Not sure about the 460, but on my 302 the mounts are a one piece unit, two metal brackets with rubber between. One side bolted to motor, other side bolted to towers(frame). Not a bad job as long as you have the clearance to work in there. The bolts were really tight one one side and I needed to remove the plastic inner fender to gain enough room to work.
Good luck and let us know if you run into any problems.

 

You should have one piece mounts, my 94 F-350 with a 460 does anyway, I had to take all of them loose, and pulled them out to place some blocks between the motor and frame when I replaced the rear main seal. I had to disconnect my fuel lines, a.c lines, and linkages, but You may not need to go that far just to remove the mounts.

 

I'm not sure about a '95 but....

Mine has a plate with 2 nuts crimped into it bolted in 3 places to the block with SAE bolts.
The 2 bolts that then hold the mount onto said plate are 12mm X 2 pitch. (so I got 4 grade 10.8 bolts 25mm long)
The mounts then have 2 studs that nut on with big washers through the frame perches on my truck.

HTH if this is right for your application.

 

The motor mount studs are 7/16x14 and IIRC, the bolts block to plate are 3/8x16

 

Thanks for the info guys. I guess I might not need the brackets the mount to the block and to the rubber pad but I really dont know if they are broke of wore out too so I got them anyway. I would rather have them right there with me when I do it rather than have to wait for ford to order them in. I'm going to give it a try on sat.

 

It Sounds Like You Are Doing The Right Thing.. Don't Forget To Use New Lock Washers And Put Some Lube On The Bolts That Go Into The Block.. It Isn't A Bad Idea To Use Lube On Everything But Not The Rubber..if You Don't Want To Break The Motor Mounts Again There Is An Old Hot Rodder Trick Of Bolting A Chain{about 3/16 Wire} To The Left Side Of The Motor Somwher Around The Front Accesories And Then Down To The Frame.. Leave The Chain Slightly Loose So You Won't Get Vibration Through It. When You Hammer The Engine The Chain Will Take The Torque Instead Of The Motor Mount..