What have you done to your truck today?
as for a rack that lets you mount lights, I would look at Back rack, very good quality and they do offer lighting accessories. there site is BACKRACK (I think)
as for a rack that lets you mount lights, I would look at Back rack, very good quality and they do offer lighting accessories. there site is BACKRACK (I think)
The brackets can be mounted on the rack as you like the directions are what's recommended but if you want to mount them lower I think it is possible to do so
I like the idea of the LED's, like you said, they would drain the battery less then a halogen.
And they do make a few types of light brackets for these racks. BACKRACK
But the only problem I have with them is they either extend out on the sides. Which I don't really like the look of. Or they mount on top of the rack, and that won't work for me since I need have the top clear for ladders/lumber.
So any lights that I add to it have to be down low enough so I have enough clearance.
And they do make a few types of light brackets for these racks. BACKRACK
But the only problem I have with them is they either extend out on the sides. Which I don't really like the look of. Or they mount on top of the rack, and that won't work for me since I need have the top clear for ladders/lumber.
So any lights that I add to it have to be down low enough so I have enough clearance.
I started off today trying to change my radius arm bushings.
I got the nut off with my trusty Harbor Freight electric impact. The 28mm socket fits better than the 1-1/8" socket does.
However, I could not get the large bushing out. The rubber somehow fused to the radius arm. I also noticed that my radius arm bracket had started to rust out from the inside. And, since the bushings were shot, the radius arm had started to make the hole in the bracket egg-shaped. I needed new radius arm brackets.
While the radius arms were "off" I managed to change my springs. I put in Moog CC824's. They're a little "stiff." Maybe I should have gone with the CC822's.
Anyways...
I reassembled the radius arms and ended up picking up the radius arm brackets from a local dealer. Not horrifyingly expensive. I then managed to talk Sears Auto into changing them out for me (the brackets and the bushings... I supplied the parts) for $270. Not too bad. I didn't feel like torching or grinding off the rivets. Besides, that meant that I'd have to buy a grinder and a torch. Plus I don't have an air chisel or a compressor that's heavy duty enough to run air tools.
Rides a lot quieter now. No more "clunks" when going over bumps. No more bounces when I go over bumps (the new Bilstein's I put in a two weeks ago are amazing). However, the ride is pretty firm with the new springs.
I got the nut off with my trusty Harbor Freight electric impact. The 28mm socket fits better than the 1-1/8" socket does.
However, I could not get the large bushing out. The rubber somehow fused to the radius arm. I also noticed that my radius arm bracket had started to rust out from the inside. And, since the bushings were shot, the radius arm had started to make the hole in the bracket egg-shaped. I needed new radius arm brackets.
While the radius arms were "off" I managed to change my springs. I put in Moog CC824's. They're a little "stiff." Maybe I should have gone with the CC822's.
Anyways...
I reassembled the radius arms and ended up picking up the radius arm brackets from a local dealer. Not horrifyingly expensive. I then managed to talk Sears Auto into changing them out for me (the brackets and the bushings... I supplied the parts) for $270. Not too bad. I didn't feel like torching or grinding off the rivets. Besides, that meant that I'd have to buy a grinder and a torch. Plus I don't have an air chisel or a compressor that's heavy duty enough to run air tools.
Rides a lot quieter now. No more "clunks" when going over bumps. No more bounces when I go over bumps (the new Bilstein's I put in a two weeks ago are amazing). However, the ride is pretty firm with the new springs.
Safety Rack by Backrack is a nice option. It actually does a better job of protecting the cab and back window. Here is one on my ranger, I added the side rails. If you want to add lights you can mount the BELOW the bar.
Dee Zee makes a Cab rack too, the problem is, it blocks the 3rd brake light(for those that have one) and the lip where it attaches to the bed, sticks in almost 2"(1" on either side)
I bought a PROTECH. It fit much nicer than the DeeZee and the light boxes are an option(as well as mesh, louvers, ladder stops,tie does, etc)
The lights I have added are taillights/stop/turns & Strobes. I still need to wire it.The switches came yesterday and waiting in the wire
Dee Zee makes a Cab rack too, the problem is, it blocks the 3rd brake light(for those that have one) and the lip where it attaches to the bed, sticks in almost 2"(1" on either side)
I bought a PROTECH. It fit much nicer than the DeeZee and the light boxes are an option(as well as mesh, louvers, ladder stops,tie does, etc)
The lights I have added are taillights/stop/turns & Strobes. I still need to wire it.The switches came yesterday and waiting in the wire
Fixed my shift lever
My auto shift lever had been a wandering gypsy for awhile, but it got to the point where getting the truck into park was a complete mystery. Nothing like pulling into a parking lot, shifting to park, shutting off the ignition and getting out as the truck rolled. The first time it did it, scared me to death!
The solution was easy--there are two torx bolts under the dash at the steering column and they had come loose. I stuck my fat butt under the dash, squinted alot, held my tongue just right and got them cinched down.
Indicator is right again, park is park, no more rolling, no more mysteries. For all of the holy crap problems we encounter, it sure was nice that this one was so simple!
The solution was easy--there are two torx bolts under the dash at the steering column and they had come loose. I stuck my fat butt under the dash, squinted alot, held my tongue just right and got them cinched down.
Indicator is right again, park is park, no more rolling, no more mysteries. For all of the holy crap problems we encounter, it sure was nice that this one was so simple!
Oil change, fuel filter, greased chassis, set the alignment a little more towed-in, checked transfer case & rear diff fluid, gave it a good look over. Found a bad passenger side spindle bearing, loose front driveshaft u-joint, driver side radius arm bushing (I'll do the bracket too). In December I'll have a chance to get it in a nice all inclusive shop, and I'll do a full set of springs & leaf hangers then. Also need to change trans fluid & filter (and pound out the pan dent, tell me again why these things didn't come standard with skid plates?).
So overall she's in great shape! haha if it's not one thing it's another
So overall she's in great shape! haha if it's not one thing it's another
Oil change, fuel filter, greased chassis, set the alignment a little more towed-in, checked transfer case & rear diff fluid, gave it a good look over. Found a bad passenger side spindle bearing, loose front driveshaft u-joint, driver side radius arm bushing (I'll do the bracket too). In December I'll have a chance to get it in a nice all inclusive shop, and I'll do a full set of springs & leaf hangers then. Also need to change trans fluid & filter (and pound out the pan dent, tell me again why these things didn't come standard with skid plates?).
So overall she's in great shape! haha if it's not one thing it's another
So overall she's in great shape! haha if it's not one thing it's another