So I'm working on some more changes to my build, version 1.2 if you will.

I've recently added a JBL MS-8 DSP to the setup (temporarily installed; permanent install and pics pending) for some EQ and auto-EQ that I didn't have with the original setup.

I'm still having a little trouble getting it just the way I like it. The biggest issue is in the transition between sub-bass and mid-bass. I can't place my finger on it, but something just isn't right...

On my plate are the following two things that I'd still like to try:

• I've never been overly impressed with the subwoofer that I chose. The ported design really didn't sound good - major peak around 50 - 60 Hz that really made integration tough. I've since plugged the port and am running it sealed. Sound is a lot better, but WinISD tells me the Pioneer shallow is on borrowed time with the power I'm running and what I'm demanding of it. I'd really like to pick up a better slim sub to put in the same location behind the seat. I've heard great things about the JL 13TW5 and Apline SWR-T12, but have been looking for a second-hand one in case the improvement isn't what I expect (I won't feel like I dumped a ton of additional cash in to the system - especially with the price of the JL). Both would require a new enclosure be built, which is something I didn't have the capability to do 5 years ago when I started this build, but which I'd try now. My concern with replacing the sub is that I also think I've been chasing weak mid-bass up front and a new sub isn't going to solve that, so I'm trying to make sure the money will be well spent.
• I'd also like to eliminate the 2008 - 2010 sail panel/tweeter pods that I installed. Tweeter positioning is fixed and not ideal; plus, they're playing behind a plastic perforated grille that I think is diminishing some of the high end of the frequency response (confirmed by ear and measurement). They also haven't held up very well; two of the clips are broken and I need to hot glue them back in place every time I take them off. I'd like to try my hand at making some custom pods in the stock sail panels that I removed.

Stay tuned! And if anyone has a used 13TW5 or SWR-T12 they'd like to sell, send me a PM...

 

Latest update...

So the MS-8 hasn't been working out for me. The T/A and auto-EQ was doing some very funny things to the sound quality from my system. My driver's midbass was being over-driven compared to the passenger side; the sub-to-midbass transition wasn't improving. Highs were getting all cut out. I worked quite a bit with Andy W to try to get it working better, but just couldn't. I don't blame the MS-8, I think it's more a function of my system.

The one thing that did work well on the MS-8 was the 31-band manual EQ. I was actually able to smooth out my frequency response and get the sound I have been looking for just by using the EQ. I've decided I can do without some of the perfect imaging as long as I've got good tonality.

I have a 1/3-octave EQ on order that I will be installing at some point in the near future.

Stay tuned for pics of some other changes...

 

I finally decided to ditch the Pioneer TS-SW3041D shallow subwoofer. I'm sure this is a competent subwoofer for someone with limited space and 200 watts, but it just wasn't cutting it in my truck with the 500/1 JL tied to it. I know a lot of folks here tend to like this setup with the SPL2K box, but it's never really met my expectations.

So I searched for either a used Alpine SWR-T12 or JL 13TW5. Ended up finding the JL used and tried my hand at my first enclosure build. Actually had a friend do the cuts for me since I couldn't get the hang of the table saw (I designed it and calculated dimensions/angles, he cut; too much fear on my part at controlling the saw).

I spent a lot of time measuring behind the rear seat to ensure there would be no contact between the sub and the back of the seat. The SPL2K enclosure and Pioneer sub always made a little bit of contact. So I shortened the top depth of the wedge enclosure to make sure it would angle back further. I got exactly 0.852 cu ft (-0.052 for the sub displacement = 0.8 cu ft) which matches JL's spec exactly.

The sub itself, came in great condition:


New enclosure (foreground) vs. old enclosure (background, carpeted):


Test fitting the speaker for the right positioning:


Although I pre-drilled everything, I ended up delaminating the front panel when I started the speaker screws:


Nothing a couple of strategically places coarse-thread screws and some glue couldn't fix:


Filled the repair screw holes:


Used brass threaded inserts (10-24 machine thread, available at Lowes) to secure the speaker:

 

All joints were made with Titebond II wood glue and some 1.25" brads. Front panel was done in the same way with some screws added for additional clamping. Joints were pretty tight but I ran a good bead of silicone around the inside perimeter just to be sure.

Final outcome, before sanding:








Test fit in the truck:

 

I sanded off all the overhang with a Porter-Cable variable speed random orbital and 80 - 220 paper. It's nice and smooth with sharp edges.

In place of carpeting, I am planning to take it to Line-X today to have it sprayed. I'm afraid I would hack the carpeting up ; at least I know I can get a professional finish with the Line-X instantly. And the Line-X should stabilize the corners and edges that are subject to damage if the 3/4" MDF gets bumped.

Stay tuned, final pics to come soon...

 

In case it helps anyone, the schematics and calcs for my sub box build are attached:

 

Very nice!

I'm totally satisfied with the JL products in my signature. Adding the 2 sets of C5-570's to my truck finished the system perfectly.

 

Thank you!

I've only listened to the 13TW5 for a short while, but it is a night and day difference over the Pioneer in terms of sound quality. The Pioneer components I have in the front have been pretty good with the midbass and the JL supplements them just perfectly. The EQ has really helped both to come together just right.

 

I have a down firing ported box in my 04 cc F250. It has a Pioneer TW-W2502D2 ten inch sub powered by a JL 500/1. I have a set of Exodus Audio 6.5 neo mids & a pair of Morel M12 tweeters in my front doors powered by a US Amp Merlin 4x75 old school amp.
Your 350 looks great. Good Install!

 

Sent my new enclosure out to Line-X to be coated. Took a little longer (1 week) and was a little more expensive than I had expected. Also, I wasn't completely specific about how I wanted it taped, so they sprayed inside the terminal cup opening and also coated my stainless machine screws which I left in place so the threaded inserts wouldn't get coated.

Here are some pictures after coating:










The Line-X folks told me that silicone is a no-no for sealing to the coated surface. They recommended a urethane sealant which is what I used to seal the terminal cup in place. I'm waiting for that to dry - the one I used has a lot of toluene and xylene which I wouldn't want trapped inside the box as I think it could cause issues with the speaker eventually.

I'll post final pics as soon as I have it assembled.

 

Looks sharp! I probably would've gone with a DIY bedliner material since nobody's going to see it anyways, but it does look clean.

 

I used duplcolor bed liner coating for my box. I then painted it the color of my interior. I plan to add a small covered box to the top to add storage.