I picked up a 390+.030 for my '74 F-100 2wd costing me some car electronics and $200 with a CompCam 260H K kit. It's barely got 5000 miles on it. Since then I installed a Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 600cfm elec choke, adapted a later model male post distributor cap, CalCustom valve covers, remote oil filter, and Jet-Hot coated Hooker headers being held on with Stage-8 bolts.

I'm working up to a Milodon 8qt oil pan and gear drive timing set. Till then I didn't feel like paying $600-1200 for a running stand, so I am building one. I don't have access to a bellhousing from one of my 4x4's so I am taking the torque converter out. I am using lumber from a deck at my house that I am tearing down and things I have lying around (radiator, casters, batt, charger, lumber, 4ga power cable). So far it should cost me just over $125 to get running






I am going to mount a plexiglass gauge panel and mount some LED sticks that I made underneath to indicate "all systems go", battery tray, battery, battery charger, solenoid, fuel can with some plumbing on the stand, oil pres., coolant temp, tach, volt gauges, a lawn mower throttle cable and handle, aircraft style toggle switches for system hot and ignition hot, momentary start button, and whatever else I will need. All that combo on casters.

I had to mount build it high to clear my engine stand with 8" casters, it is taking 14" to clear the hoist. Let me know if you have any ideas, all is appriciated.

Thanks for your time and God bless.

 

Go with angle iron. Or at least use wood from some old shipping pallets which will be oak not pine. JMO

 

I am doing it this way mainly since I am a broke college student. I am going to reenforce everything several times over, cross bracing and etc.

 

Is the intake torqued down in that first pic? I see a pretty good lip between the intake and heads where the valve covers go. You can always remove the cork gaskets and use sealer to get it sit flush a little better. It's normal to have a slight lip sometimes. But that might be a leaker if you leave it like that. Unless it's just the pic angle I'm seeing more than there is?

 

Umm... I did have a problem with a HUGE gap at first. Since then I have fix that torqued it down.

 

Looks good! Gotta wonder about wood though - although I've used the same stuff for many things...

Forget the gear-drive timing set - they are noisy, and a regular roller chain works just fine for almost everything.

 

I was hoping you were gonna rig up a seat, wheels, steering and drive that thing around a bit.


JK.....

 

maybe.... That may be why I am using deck lumber. This will be my pinebox derby car!!!