CB Radio
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 116
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From: AB, Canada
CB Radio
hey,
i have never done any sort of wiring in a vehicle, havent even installed my own cd deck, i need to install my BC radio in my truck, 95 f250, and was wondering if someone could tell me where i wire the power? its just got the red and black cables.
thanks
i have never done any sort of wiring in a vehicle, havent even installed my own cd deck, i need to install my BC radio in my truck, 95 f250, and was wondering if someone could tell me where i wire the power? its just got the red and black cables.
thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
The black to goes to a chassis ground, there should be several wires bolted to the metal under the dash, install a ring or U terminal and bolt it with those. The red wire depends on if you want to use the radio with the key off. If yes, you need to find a constant power in the fuse box, or run a wire with a fuse to the battery. Going to the battery may give you slightly less engine noise. If you don't want the radio on with the key off, the radio circuit would be a pretty good choice.
Be sure not to run your coax (RG58/GR8) near any power wires, and use a gromet where it passes through sheet metal. I like to keep my coax about a foot way from any other wires and make a coil of the excess near the antenna.
Be sure not to run your coax (RG58/GR8) near any power wires, and use a gromet where it passes through sheet metal. I like to keep my coax about a foot way from any other wires and make a coil of the excess near the antenna.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
Please, if you don't have any terminals, pick some up. You don't have to use severe service terminals, you don't have to solder and heat shrink them, but don't just strip the wire and wrap it around the bolt.
If your going to the fuse box, scotch locks or taps are an easy way to go, conversely, you can cut off about a 1/2 inch of the insulation, poke an awl through the wire and tie the new wire in, solder it, then wrap in electrical tape. Some will say one is superior to the other, but they both work well.
For the fuse, try to use a fuse holder that holds the same fuse that's in your fuse box. You probably have ATC (full size blade) fuses, this makes it easier to have replacements on hand. With the fuse holder, put a ring/eye or U terminal on one end, and then buttsplice or tie and solder to your wire you have run through the fire wall.
With all wires that pass through sheet metal, put a rubber gromet around them, it protects the wire from chaffing and shorting out.
For the antenna, the solid wire in the middle of the coax gets attached to the antenna lead. On the ball mounts I use, it's the screw in the middle of the main nut. Then the wire mesh around the center conductor needs to go to a ground near the antenna. I usually unlace a couple of inches, put heat shrink and a ring/eye terminal on it.
If your going to the fuse box, scotch locks or taps are an easy way to go, conversely, you can cut off about a 1/2 inch of the insulation, poke an awl through the wire and tie the new wire in, solder it, then wrap in electrical tape. Some will say one is superior to the other, but they both work well.
For the fuse, try to use a fuse holder that holds the same fuse that's in your fuse box. You probably have ATC (full size blade) fuses, this makes it easier to have replacements on hand. With the fuse holder, put a ring/eye or U terminal on one end, and then buttsplice or tie and solder to your wire you have run through the fire wall.
With all wires that pass through sheet metal, put a rubber gromet around them, it protects the wire from chaffing and shorting out.
For the antenna, the solid wire in the middle of the coax gets attached to the antenna lead. On the ball mounts I use, it's the screw in the middle of the main nut. Then the wire mesh around the center conductor needs to go to a ground near the antenna. I usually unlace a couple of inches, put heat shrink and a ring/eye terminal on it.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
That's not the tap-a-circuit then Tapa Circuit Dual ATO Fuseholder Wirthco Engineering, Inc.
I'd rather use one of these than the old brass tabs that fit around the fuse. These are a bit more expensive, probably 1.50 each.
I'd rather use one of these than the old brass tabs that fit around the fuse. These are a bit more expensive, probably 1.50 each.
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
Just as a side note, on the mini blade fuses, you can use a U wire terminal, just cut one of the ears off, and it will slide down next to the fuse. You can probably get away with it on ATC fuses too, but I haven't tried it.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 858
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From: VA
Also remember NEVER key up your radio without an antenna installed. This includes antennas like the Wilson and K40 with the removable (quick disconnect) antenna. Keying up without an antenna installed will blow your finals.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
It's hard to tell until you have it hooked up. Once you have it hooked up, go to your local trucker's channel (typically 19) and ask for a radio check and location. I think CB legal limit is 4watts, so you shouldn't talk much over a couple miles depending on interference.
The best thing to do, is put an SWR meter on it and tune your antenna. If your SWR doesn't move when you key up, your radio is shot. Conversely, I had a Galaxy DX75 blow smoke on me once.
The best thing to do, is put an SWR meter on it and tune your antenna. If your SWR doesn't move when you key up, your radio is shot. Conversely, I had a Galaxy DX75 blow smoke on me once.
