429 help, please!
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
Did you check the play in your timing set? I know seems a little odd but if the timing set is worn out or misaligned you wont be able to set timing properly.
The Fel-pro gaskets are generally good gaskets. With that said, did you use the end seals or replace them with a bead of RTV?
The Fel-pro gaskets are generally good gaskets. With that said, did you use the end seals or replace them with a bead of RTV?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Did you check the play in your timing set? I know seems a little odd but if the timing set is worn out or misaligned you wont be able to set timing properly.
The Fel-pro gaskets are generally good gaskets. With that said, did you use the end seals or replace them with a bead of RTV?
The Fel-pro gaskets are generally good gaskets. With that said, did you use the end seals or replace them with a bead of RTV?
The truck has only 1000 miles on it since completion.
I finished it last June, took it to 7 shows, and walked away with 6 First places tropies in it's class. (photos below)
I wanted more HP, and I also wanted to "pretty" up the engine compartment.
I used the supplied cork end seals, and used Ultra-blue at the corners.
That said, yesterday I sprayed every possible area where a vacuum leak might occur with ether, and nothing happened.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
Nice truck! However if the vacuum leak is on the under side of the manifold/head junction, you will never locate it using ether. What kind of carb doyou have, Holley or Ford, could be a power valve issue from back firing.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
Great looking truck by the way. I read earlier that you sprayed all the external areas of the intake manifold.
Did you plug the vacuum booster port like previously posted?
The entire truck has 1000 since rebuild to include a fresh engine build? If everything is new why do you have 155-170 psi depending on which cylinder? I know I am posting more questions then answers. I have over 4000 miles on my rebuild and have 3-4 psi difference on all the cylinders. See where I am going with this now? I had to set my valves a bunch of times before it was right. I think I was up to 9 times total before it wanted to leave me alone finally.
Did you plug the vacuum booster port like previously posted?
The entire truck has 1000 since rebuild to include a fresh engine build? If everything is new why do you have 155-170 psi depending on which cylinder? I know I am posting more questions then answers. I have over 4000 miles on my rebuild and have 3-4 psi difference on all the cylinders. See where I am going with this now? I had to set my valves a bunch of times before it was right. I think I was up to 9 times total before it wanted to leave me alone finally.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
I thought about that too, after it back fired, so I changed the power valve.
Same thing!
It's a 750 Holly.
I'm going to ask one of the guys from Fast Times to stop by this weekend.
It's got to be something simple, or something I am over looking.
Same thing!
It's a 750 Holly.
I'm going to ask one of the guys from Fast Times to stop by this weekend.
It's got to be something simple, or something I am over looking.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
If you have enough cam to only be pulling 12in vac it won't idle below a 1000rpm. I am with everyone else here if your only pulling 12 vac you have a leak, very possibly the carb base gasket (overtighten a carb and you can easily warp the base) but since you didn't find anything with spraying it I am with bear in thinking you may have a leak UNDER the intake especially if you used the cork gaskets as they can hold the intake up just enough to cause a problem. NEVER use the cork or rubber gaskets supplied.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Great looking truck by the way. I read earlier that you sprayed all the external areas of the intake manifold.
Did you plug the vacuum booster port like previously posted?
The entire truck has 1000 since rebuild to include a fresh engine build? If everything is new why do you have 155-170 psi depending on which cylinder? I know I am posting more questions then answers. I have over 4000 miles on my rebuild and have 3-4 psi difference on all the cylinders. See where I am going with this now? I had to set my valves a bunch of times before it was right. I think I was up to 9 times total before it wanted to leave me alone finally.
Did you plug the vacuum booster port like previously posted?
The entire truck has 1000 since rebuild to include a fresh engine build? If everything is new why do you have 155-170 psi depending on which cylinder? I know I am posting more questions then answers. I have over 4000 miles on my rebuild and have 3-4 psi difference on all the cylinders. See where I am going with this now? I had to set my valves a bunch of times before it was right. I think I was up to 9 times total before it wanted to leave me alone finally.
Yes, I did plug the booster port, with no change.
So, maybe you think it's still an adjustment in the valves?
I will try anything to get it right. If I can't figure it out, I will stuff the old heads back on it and be done.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
If you have enough cam to only be pulling 12in vac it won't idle below a 1000rpm. I am with everyone else here if your only pulling 12 vac you have a leak, very possibly the carb base gasket (overtighten a carb and you can easily warp the base) but since you didn't find anything with spraying it I am with bear in thinking you may have a leak UNDER the intake especially if you used the cork gaskets as they can hold the intake up just enough to cause a problem. NEVER use the cork or rubber gaskets supplied.
so, just use the Ultra-Blue on the ends, and forget the supplied gaskets?
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
When you checked the vac was it steady at 12 or bouncing? if steady it's most likely NOT valve adjustment, if it is bouncing then run your valves again.
And yes you can use the ultra blue on the ends, don't use the supplied gaskets.
And yes you can use the ultra blue on the ends, don't use the supplied gaskets.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
if it was bouncing that is usually an indication of a valve issue.one thing is are you adjusting them cold or hot? Makes a huge difference, if your running them 1/2 turn hot then when the engine is cold your too tight (my solid lifter on my A460 heads set to .024 hot ends up being about .018 cold there is that much difference).
Also how are you determining you are on base circle of the cam? me I set #1 cyl just before TDC on the compression stroke, set #1, then turn crank 90degrees set next cyl in firing order do that until you make 2 complete revelutions until you have done every cylinder.
Also how are you determining you are on base circle of the cam? me I set #1 cyl just before TDC on the compression stroke, set #1, then turn crank 90degrees set next cyl in firing order do that until you make 2 complete revelutions until you have done every cylinder.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
I haven't adjusted them while the engine was running, or warmed up.
I did the pre-set on them:
Adjust the intake when the exhaust just cracks open, and adjust the exhaust when the intake is almost closed.
That is how I was told to do it, and I checked it 3 or 4 times before I installed the intake manifold, carb etc.....or before I started it.
I did the pre-set on them:
Adjust the intake when the exhaust just cracks open, and adjust the exhaust when the intake is almost closed.
That is how I was told to do it, and I checked it 3 or 4 times before I installed the intake manifold, carb etc.....or before I started it.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
Try adjust them the way I just told you using the TDC on the compression stroke and go through the entire firing order. use 1/2 turn cold after you reach zero lash. Also for the purpose of this, back them all off maybe even remove the rockers but leave the pushrods before you start so you don't have a collapsed lifter when you start the adjustment, then as you reach each cylinder to do the adjustment put the rockers on and adjust then go to next cyl.