Yesterday I purchased a 50 f-2 for $425. The only real problem with the body is the bed. It has heavy rust from front to back where the wood bed meets the panel on both sides. I'm new to restoration. Is it better to patch the existing bed or go try to find a 1948 - 1950 bed? It also has no engine or tranny. What would be good candidates for newer (parts available) engines that would be fairly easy to fit?

Thanks

Don

 

I too had bad bed box; I opted to Have new sides braked, instead of repairing the existing. I have the pieces in epoxy primer ready for assembly. If you're hooked on restoration, you'll need to pound out all dents and cut out lower panels then weld in new metal. Good luck

Tom

 

Since the F2/F3 beds are not reproduced you have no choice but to fix yours or try to find one better. You will find that F2/F3 beds are quite scarce. I converted my 48 F-3 to an F-1 just so I could put a reproduction F-1 bed on it. The venerable 289/302/351 would be a good fit. Good score on the F-2 for $425. How about some pictures? I paid $500 for mine.

 

Oh boy are we going to have fun with you!

Problem with your bed is it has the paneled sides and is slightly bigger than the F1 beds. So I agree with GNW on that - hard to find, hard to reproduce.

Now to Engine Tranny combos. You're going to get as many inputs on this as there are posters on this site.

I've had a 55F100, a 56 F100CC, and now a 51 Five Star Deluxe cab. All with very different engine tranny combos.

My 55 had a SBF with a 3 spd overdrive tranny that was wonderful - good enough power, comfortable on the long drive and had great mileage. No racing or speed foolishness, just nice reliable and fun to drive.

The 56 had a big block 351 Cleveland with a C4 and was not much of an improvement over the 289. Very non descript drive train - miliage not to hot

My current truck has a big block Ford FE 390 Police Interceptor with a melling cam, msd ignition, and big Edelbrock 750 carb, with a C6 - and it scares the $#i! out of me. First thing I decided to do after that test drive was box the frame, and go with Mustang II front end with discs. It's 0 to 60 in 5 seconds and I'm sitting somewhere back in the bed at 45. And it gets a whopping 8mpg on "ethyl" at $4.29/gal (todays San Diego average price).

But, not to jump ahead, as long as your engine is out and you are going to have to select new engine mounts to go with your choice, spend the time and $200 to get the frame boxed and do it right the first time. You never know how far you'll end up going. On my 51 all I wanted was a comfortable driver - someone offered me the engine newly rebuilt and I had him throw in the cam at the time. My neighbor brought over a set of Chrome Valve Covers and it all went to pieces after that. One picture is worth a thousand words!

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I think if I were to start from scratch, I'd go with the Small Block Ford 289-302 or best 351 Windsor and put either a C4, (C6 if you really want it bullet proof) or a three speed overdrive (or automatic over drive) or a four speed if I wanted to "drive" it a little speedier.

Of course youcould always go with a C&$vy 350 which is a good engine, but it is against FTE posting rules to say 'Small Block Chevy" in posts on Monday. So I won't even suggest such a hideous thing.

 

I'm keeping my eyes open for a 85-90 crown vic to supply my drivetrain. 5.0, radiator, fuel injection w/harness and computer, gas tank and anything else I can think of to take out of it. They're on craigslist all the time for 500-1K.

 

Thanks fellers. Great information! I guess it's time to beg, borrow or steal a Plasma, TIG cutter/welder. The problem is, then I'd have to learn to use it.

I was talking to a friend that has done a bit of restoration. In fact he's working on a '51? Ford 4 door now. He was advising me to cut the frame in front of the fire wall. Buy a Mustang II or something similar and cut the frame at the same place. Weld a heavy plate on end and bottom of the '50 frame and weld on the Mustang front end. The plates will take care of any offset and give strength. You would then have power steering, power brakes, newer axle and suspension. What do you think of this idea?

What do you need to do to accomplish "boxing the frame" ?

Don

 

Sandidande .... that engine is a bute! I'd love to find a 289 but I'm kinda partial to the 351w. Lots of parts available and I'm quite familiar with it. Which combo was the best fit to frame and crossmembers?

 

Before I went to all that trouble of cutting the frame and putting two frames together I'd look into putting a Jag IFS under it. LOTS easier and faster. And you get all of the above. Make two front gussets weld them on and drill 2 holes on each side for the rear of the IFS to bolt it to your frame and install it. Check it out it's well worth the time and money you'll save.

 

Nope, don't like it, my opinion only. The Jag front suspension is a near bolt in. Lots easier, and no need to butcher the frame (not to mention much cheaper $$$). But, when cutting a frame on a truck it is better to Z-cut it. A straight cut up and down with welded plate is destined to crack.

 

I was just looking up articles on the Jag IFS and saw several references to Corvette suspension for the same purpose.

Anyone know a ballpark figure $$ for the Jag IFS?

I asked about cracking and my friend claims the weld with the plates will last till the second coming. (I hear that's supposed to be 2012)


Don

 

It's the JAG Donor car your looking for, depends alot on availability in your area...
My guess ..? 300-500 clams, you won't need the body..may want to keep seats,steering etc...might find one in your local salvage yard ready for the crusher...might get the front and rear cheap...read-on find out the exact year/model you need.Good Luck!

 

With so many great options out there why would anyone want to cut up a frame? I'm with havi on that one.

 

Ok ... I thought you were talking about the Jag IFS IRS kits that are being put together.

I won't find a Jag in any salvage yard within 200 miles of here. I am VERY rural and in Ford pickup country. Idaho farm and ranch country. Anyone likely to buy a Jag would have a Lincoln SUV.

Don Merz

 

Well...I would not completely rule it out just yet, keep the option on the table, these guys that have done it "love-it!"..and if you've ever driven one you'd know why..
and it's a very straight forward install from what I've seen on this site.
The engine/trans is another area of much debate and conjecture...might want to put the JAG in the rear also..you will find it comes down to your personal choice and budget.
But looking Cool usually influences my goals.
By the way, Welcome to FTE, your one-stop source for all tech resources and opinions!

 

All I can say is don't put a 350 C**** in it. There is way to many very nice looking Ford trucks around that got 350's shoved in 'em.