Hey guys, I got my truck finally fired up today (took a little while).

However I have some odd issues.

OK first off- I have an autometer pyrometer and boost gauge.

When I wired these gauges up, I used some of those "add a circuit" fuse holders that plug into an existing spot on the fuse panel, with a place to put the original fuse, and then a new holder for the new fuse with a "hot" lead coming off this side. Anyway, I used two of these for my 12V switched signals to my gauges.

Anyway, after I started the truck, I tried to put down the passenger side window. When I push on the button (up or down), the tach goes to zero, the dash indicators for the turn signals and high beams come on, the dome light dims to almost off, and my brother told me the taillights were coming on? Now I know I had one of the gauges wired through the power mirror fuse, so I'm assuming that's what's causing the problem, but what's with all the odd things it's doing?

Also, I had the truck running for probably around 10 minutes and the pyrometer never went above 200 degrees. That doesn't seem right.

So, I'll have to investigate the electrical weirdness tomorrow.

One last thing, and this is just a curiosity thing- when I had it idling, it didn't seem like there was a strong exhaust flow coming out of the tailpipe,but then it also has 4" exhaust on it now with a 5" tip so I figured that was why It almost sounds like it has a leak in the exhaust but if there is I can't tell where, so I guess I'm not too worried about it.

 

With engine running block of the tail pipe any leaks will be found by their hissing.....

 

200 degrees sitting there idling is about right.

Even after pulling a load up a hill, you can set there and let it idle for a minute or so and the EGT will go below 300 degrees, which is something you should do with a turbo.

Shutting it down at higher temps will cause the oil in the turbo to coke, blocking oil passages.

 

Well the electrical problem fixed itself apparently

As for the pyrometer, I could barely get it to go over 800 degrees although I wasn't exactly wailing on it. It would drop right back down to around 400 degrees after I went back to a cruising speed. Seems weird, but I don't have much experience with diesel EGT's...

 

That sounds about right.

A trip up Coopers Rock with your foot on the floor should get it a bit higher.

Are you seeing any black smoke at WOT pulling a hill?

Electrical problems that fix themselves are nice, but for some reason they seem to reappear at the worst possible time.

 

I haven't driven it a whole lot yet. I'd like to get the exhaust a bit more "civilized" first.

I'm also only getting about 6 lbs of boost so I need to crank the wastegate a little.

 

Examine the pre turbo exhaust connections carefully, you are looking for soot stains which would indicate a leak.

Also boost is also regulated by the amount of fuel you are feeding the engine, engine speed and work the engine is doing.

When I cruise to Morgantown, there are only a couple hills where I see boost over 60% of max unless I am really in a hurry.

79 North from the bridge up the hill toward Westover would be a good place to put it on the mat and see what you have for boost numbers about 3/4 way up the hill.

Probably have to drop it down to 4th so you can get the RPM up around 2800 without going so fast with the throttle on the floor.

 

Well I still have the truck out at my parent's house.

I dunno I followed AT's instructions and turned the fuel pump screw out three turns. The turbo definitely seems to be spooling up fine but I'm not really seeing all that much boost. I dunno. I don't think any of the exhaust stuff BEFORE the turbo is leaking...

 

Turned the external fuel screw out three turns?

Did you adjust the internal fuel screw?

 

The instructions from ATS didn't mention anything like that....

They just said to remove the white plastic cap located on the back of the injector pump, under which was the allen head fuel screw. It said to turn this screw out three full turns, then replace the cap, and that's it.