Hi all,

I had a weird thing happen today, wonder if anybody has a possible answer.

I have a 2004 F250 PSD 6.0L with 36k on it. I pulled out of a parking lot today and it sputtered and had no power (ran great 'til today). This continued for about 1 mile.
Once I stabbed the throttle it cleared up (kind of). I got on the freeway and jumped on it. It seems to have cleared up, but I suspect something is going to get worse before it gets better. It idles perfect, revs great in neutral but as soon as it is in drive and under a load it happens.

I plugged in a DTC reader and it had a MAP sensor code and a turbo sensor code with NO "CHECK ENGINE LIGHT" I cleared them and will drive it some more tomorrow.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I added some fuel (about 5 gallons since it's so damn expensive and I don't drive many miles) 30 minutes before this happened. I doubt it is the problem but I thought I would mention it anyway.

Any help or ideas would be great.

Thank you
Joe

 

The first thing I would try, is to unplug the EGR valve and drive it. I would also pull it out and clean it before eliminating it completely as contributing to your problem. Next would be the turbo is possibly sticking especially if it has been sitting alot. That seems to contribute to the sticking vains. Do you happen to remember what the code numbers are. There are people here that have alot of information, and they can come up with things that you or me sometimes over look.

 

The vehicle is driven almost every other day.

The codes were:
P0069 MAP- Barometric Pressure Correlation
Darn I forgot the other one and erased them!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The EGR disconnect? What will disconnecting do for me?

 

I did have a similiar problem years ago that was way worse and did not clear up on its own. The dealer said my throttle plate was stuck.
The EGR valve is the black cylinder toward the front with a few wires on it, is this correct?

 

Yes

 

same thing happen to me, took it in and there they replace a sensor on the turbo and the turbo itself, said the 04s and under had a poor turbo and the newer ones were stainless or something and mine was rusted.

 

I had the turbo replaced a year after I got the truck.

OZX3+1,

Disconnect it and leave it disconnected, or just for diagnostic purposes? Obviously if the problem goes away, do you recommend removing it and cleaning it?

The truck sees street miles with occasional highway miles. I try and open it up as much as I can. The motor is warrantied for 5yr/100k but I don't want to pay $100 deductible if I can fix it.


Thank you

 

I was just providing a picture, but I do not suggest disconnecting the EGR... I do, however, strongly suggest that you let those codes come back and then take the truck in for service. You have a warranty, so use it. If you take the try-this & try-that advise from every well intended member of the forum, you'll just waist time, cost yourself $$ guessing at what is wrong, and in the end, make life harder on your tech once he finally gets a shot at using professional judgment to fix your truck. Spend $100 now, or potentially several hundred $$'s trying to satisfy your need to save $100...
If I had to shoot-from-the-hip diagnose this, I would say MAP sensor, but that costs more than $100.00... The math is just too easy.

 

P006 is the code that compares engine back Pressure (BP) w/ Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) reading at idle. The guide for this code indicates it could be the EBP or MAP sensor OR it could be EGR system plugging. With the EGR system plugging comes the potential for the hoses and tubes to the MAP and the EBP sensors to be plugged (as well as th intake manifold openening).

By all means, take it in if it is under warranty. Even so, you may want to pull the EGR to see how dirty things are. If very dirty, you may want to try to understand why you are generating so much soot (EGR plugging does not happen over night).

 

Bismic,

Do you think the EGR plugging can be indicative of the truck not seeing higher RPM highway miles as often as it should?

This friggin truck WAS my dream truck @ one time......I wish I never bought it!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

It is very possible that not getting to full operating temperatures/conditions often enough could be a big part of the EGR plugging if that is what you find to be the problem.

Ways to help reduce EGR problems:

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 550pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=733 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 550pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 26806" width=733><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 550pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=733 height=15>Prevent EGR Plugging/Sticking (A stuck open EGR valve can cause low power and smoke):</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Get the most recent flash (it eliminates EGR operation at extended idle)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Minimize extended idling - especially at rpm's under 1200.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/706082-idling-for-extended-period.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Use good quality fuel and occasionally "drive it like you stole it"
Try to minimize "short hop" driving. Get the engine to full operating temperatures/conditions as often as possible.
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Synthetic oil and fuel additives may help prevent soot which can deposit on your turbo (exhaust side).</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl27 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-05-01.php</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

You should try cleaning the EGR yourself:
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 550pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=733 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 550pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 26806" width=733><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 67.5pt" height=90><TD class=xl27 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 550pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 67.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=733 height=90>Clean it - Use Carb cleaner, not brake cleaner - keep the fluid out of the weep holes.
New o-ring. ALSO: Clean EBP tube (unless it is a vehicle built before 9/23/03), MAP sensor hose and manifold opening.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 33.75pt" height=45><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 550pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 33.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=733 height=45>http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/60bulletin.htm</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-05-15.php</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-12.php</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/705899-more-egr-stuff-w-pics.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/449995-scary-pics-of-my-11-000-mile-old-egr-valve.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/698376-egr-disconnect-2.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/721923-sluggish-off-start-blowing-smoke.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/f24/ebp-pipe-location-cleaning-advice-146925/</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

thank you bismic.

I hear people have made their own gaskets. Is the material readily avavilable @ the neighborhood auto parts places?

So carb cleaner is better? Is it because it has some lubrication properties as opposed to Brake Kleen that leaves everything dry with no residue?

 

Well I have driven the vehicle for a week now since my "loss of power" occurence. I cleared the codes the day it happened and drove it. The vehicle has not had any problems since. I have been "jumping on it" every chance I get.

So what do you guys think happened?

Should I take off the EGR and clean it?

Any thing else I should keep my eyes on?


Thank you,
Joe

 

bringing it back to the top.

Thanks

 

this may be a long shot but on my 05 PSD one of my turbo coupling hose (to be specific the one coming out of the turbo into the intercooler) got loose and even though i checked it(thoroughly i thought) it was loose on the bottom where i couldnt see it. i guess there was a little oil leak by that was makin the inside of my hose slippery until it finally came off with a big bang and the same signs as yours but the turbo pressure didnt come back. just do a quick check of your turbo hoses and make sure they are all on good