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Back when this problem first came to being I did check and clean the MAF. At the same time I sprayed soap/water mixture around the intake and vacuum hoses looking for an increase in rpm? The MAF looked immaculate but I cleaned it anyway and the spray bottle had no effect on engine rpm? That's why I took it to a dealer to let them see what they could find and they recommended the gasket changes that I performed. I did reset the PCM at that time and thought the problem was solved, but as discussed here the rough idle has returned very quickly since performing the gasket replacement but I don't get a ce light at this time? Often I find problems like this have solutions that are obvious but not always seen right away?
Ok, how would a soap and water mix cause and increase in RPM? If anything it would slow the engine down if it got pulled through a leak. If the rough idle returned, but there is no code this time around, I suspect that they did fix the leak. So my suspicions would shift to either a tune up item, such as a plug or wire, or the idle air controller. To test the controller, unplug it and see what happens to the idle. It should stabilize.
Where do I look for the "idle air controller"? The soapy water was a mixture I thought I had used once upon a time in the past to look for vacuum leaks? I have gray hair and have killed a few brain cells over time so give me a break if I can't remember what I did use? I do appreciate everyones time and interest, Thanks!
Your definitely not alone dude!
While I was surfing the web I stopped off at some other sites and found our related problems, me & my Ranger too, posed by others having theirs...much like us!
Hey jmgrif
Got 0171 and 0174? Decided to let dealer diagnose and they recommended, replace upper intake gaskets, fuel rail gasket, injector O rings and EGR O ring! When purchasing the above parts from Ford dealer I asked for the lower manifold gasket as well but they (dealer) told me that the lower intake manifold gasket rarely is at fault with my original problem, so didn't replace that with the other work I did?
Here's where I'm at! Today I drove the truck for about 80 kms. It drives just fine and is ok if I stop at a light or sign for a short time. If I let the truck stand and idle in Park the rpm jump is around 700 to 800 rpm? It appears to be related to the airconditioning pump cycle which is supposed to happen? Some times though when the idle drops the truck almost stalls then catches itself and the rpm's pick up till the next bump up to 700 or 800 rpm? I talked with the auto parts store and purchased new plugs and wires, and asked about O2 sensors as well! The parts guy suggested in his experience with his 3.0 Ranger I have the injectors flushed in addition to the plugs and wires, and then if things remain the same consider the O2's? His rational is once the sensors are installed you've bought them and if the problem still exists?????? Tomorrow I will install plugs and wires and arrange for an injector flush! Has anybody had that procedure done? What was the outcome? I would be interested! Thanks again for everyones interest! Mark
There has to be a better way? New IAT sensor, New Intake manifold gaskets, New Fuel rail gasket, New EGR O ring, New Injector O rings top and bottom, New plugs and wires, New IAC valve! Runs worse now than it did before?
Hi their this is AJ46 It is cheeper that the o2 censor You might want to change you temp sensor don't ask why it dosen't show up on you codes but I had a semular idling problem with my 4.0 I change all my sensors and mass air sensor and still had a boucing idle even change the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail and then I change the temp sensor and it cleared up.Also to check your fuel pressure regulator, it some times will leak fuel into the vacumline .Just take the vacum line off at the regulator while running and if it leaking you'll have fuel their.If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can check presure it has to be with in 35to 40lbs pressure.
AJ46
Hey Don't spray any thing in it those small elements they are to fragile and don't run it with out it coupled up you burn the MAF out and they are about 200 bones at least in canada. If you have run it with out it coupled that could be why its not running right because the elements have over heated when you run it not coupled and if you have run it with out it you might want to try a different one but you have to get the same as what is in their because any old one th t looks the same just won't work. Their caliabrated to that certain motor.
There has to be a better way? New IAT sensor, New Intake manifold gaskets, New Fuel rail gasket, New EGR O ring, New Injector O rings top and bottom, New plugs and wires, New IAC valve! Runs worse now than it did before?
Check and make sure everything is hoked up right elec.connections vacuum lines and that are all good.Sound like you forgot something or broke something.
Used CRC electrical contact cleaner! Anybody want a ranger...I've done so much...so far $600., checked & rechecked connections, chased possible SPOUT circuit grounding-gremlins...I'm totally out of options & not sleeping @ night cause of this mega-crapola!! DOES ANYBODY UNDERSTAND THE 3 PART DIAGNOSTICS EEC-IV TESTING PROCEDURES THAT I KEEP STATING & HAVE GOTTEN NO REPLIES TO YET?? It's in ken00's tech section goto: http://fords.kilonet.org/ken00/EECIVQT.pdf
Last edited by crazypaw; Apr 6, 2008 at 06:41 AM.
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