Paint Tips?
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New User
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Paint Tips?
I have a 77 F-100 that has a good amount of rus on it. I took it to a body shop and the news was not good. They said they do not even work on old cars, that they mainly do insurance work. They said that I was looking at at least 7-8,000 dollars worth of work.
Can anyone tell me how they went about fixing their paint jobs? Had you had experience in doing it yourself? What is the best way to take on such a large job?
Can anyone tell me how they went about fixing their paint jobs? Had you had experience in doing it yourself? What is the best way to take on such a large job?
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Fixing Paint jobs ? Exactly what do you mean fixing ?
Hmm, Maybe the people who hang out in the bodywork and paint forum would be more helpful?
There were so many types of paint used over the last 30 years, you need expert advice.
Hmm, Maybe the people who hang out in the bodywork and paint forum would be more helpful?
There were so many types of paint used over the last 30 years, you need expert advice.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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I am doing that right now, although rust is mostly contained in the bed/fenderwelds/rain gutter 
On the bed I used Navel Jelly and rensed the rust out. Then I got a roll on bed liner from Wal-Mart $45 and applied it (it covered up the places that almost rust through).
I did have rust in the drivers side cab floor that navel jelly and was left with very cheesy floor. I got a fiberglass kit and glassed over it and primed the remaining metal to keep from rusting.
Now if the metal on the exterior is rusted through you will have grind out the rust then weld in new metal.
I took autobody in high school at the local Vo-Tech, so I took the night class so I could use the equipment there, like $70 to take the semester class.
On the bed I used Navel Jelly and rensed the rust out. Then I got a roll on bed liner from Wal-Mart $45 and applied it (it covered up the places that almost rust through). I did have rust in the drivers side cab floor that navel jelly and was left with very cheesy floor. I got a fiberglass kit and glassed over it and primed the remaining metal to keep from rusting.
Now if the metal on the exterior is rusted through you will have grind out the rust then weld in new metal.
I took autobody in high school at the local Vo-Tech, so I took the night class so I could use the equipment there, like $70 to take the semester class.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
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I have a 77 F-100 that has a good amount of rus on it. I took it to a body shop and the news was not good. They said they do not even work on old cars, that they mainly do insurance work. They said that I was looking at at least 7-8,000 dollars worth of work.
Can anyone tell me how they went about fixing their paint jobs? Had you had experience in doing it yourself? What is the best way to take on such a large job?
Can anyone tell me how they went about fixing their paint jobs? Had you had experience in doing it yourself? What is the best way to take on such a large job?
Yeah, most body shops are like that. You may be able to find a shop that specializes in restoring antique vehicles, but their price would be just as high, if not higher. If you want to do some of the work yourself, your best bet would be to replace the rusted out body parts with rust-free ones. Do a Google search for "rust-free truck parts". There are many places that bring rust-free parts back from out west. Rust-free parts for these older trucks are readily available in the Southwest states.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 811
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The answers to your questions depend on what your goals are for the truck. If it is merely to be used as a shop truck, then, fiberglass away. If you want to restore the truck, or hot rod the truck then some options are to do an internet search to take classes at your local community college.
I saw an interesting article a while back in Hot Rod magazine, where they did a complete paint job using a roller and rustoleum for less than $100. The theory is to roll on a large number of thin coats, then buff the whole thing out. Colors were limited, but they seemed to get good driver results.
I saw an interesting article a while back in Hot Rod magazine, where they did a complete paint job using a roller and rustoleum for less than $100. The theory is to roll on a large number of thin coats, then buff the whole thing out. Colors were limited, but they seemed to get good driver results.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: fallbrook ca.
post a pic of your truck and we might be able to give you a better idea,
if your truck doesnt have rust through then you just you a dual action sander and sand everything down to bare metal, prime and paint.
if you have to weld patch panels, this is a pita i would highly suggest you practice on something first, you have to weld it like tightening a cylinder head. tack one side then the other, and keep going around like that until youve sealed all the cracks.
the reason you have to do that is because when you weld a joint the gap shrinks, even more so with electrical systems. if you dont do this your patch panel will warp, and you wont be happy.
if your truck doesnt have rust through then you just you a dual action sander and sand everything down to bare metal, prime and paint.
if you have to weld patch panels, this is a pita i would highly suggest you practice on something first, you have to weld it like tightening a cylinder head. tack one side then the other, and keep going around like that until youve sealed all the cracks.
the reason you have to do that is because when you weld a joint the gap shrinks, even more so with electrical systems. if you dont do this your patch panel will warp, and you wont be happy.
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