My slick has a Mallory dual point distributor in it. My question is- what is the correct way to set the points? I have asked a lot of people and can't seem to get the same answer twice. Some say that both sets of points get the same amount of gap, some say you set the primary set at "x" amount and the other set at another unspecified gap to achieve a total amount of gap. In asking this question, alot of people have asked me how many "lobes" or "bumps" the shaft has to activate the points, 4 or 8. It has eight. The truck is starting to act a little funny, so I guess it's time to replace the points again. Can I remove, clean, reinstall, and regap them? Does anyone know the specs?

 

Maybe you could try to measure the gap that your points are currently set at??If nothing else, you might be able to get the difference btween the two, which should be relative to the gaps on the new points.

Just a thought.

 

Current set is (was) dirty. I slid a little 1200 grit thru them a few times to try to help. Now it seems to act up more, so I fear I have put the wrong gap on them by using the 1200 sandpaper.

 

First off you have to use a pionts file. I still recommend installing new pionts. Then use a dwell meter to set the pionts one set at a time. You should be able to use the stock dwell on each set of pionts. When both sets of pionts are connected you will get a combined dwell reading. I don't remember what it should be. Check with Mallory on line they may have specs and procedures on there site.

 

Or just get rid of that archaic set up intensive POS and put in a reliable pertronics or ford Duraspark ignition.

Whan is the last time you looked in at the mechanics shop and saw a sun dizzy set up machine.....

Garbz

 

I like my "archaic" distributor thanks. It is not at all a pos. It is reliable and simple to work on.

 

I didn't know you had to set the dwell on these ford engines, I thought you just had to set the gap...What is dwell anyway?

 

Dwell is the degrees of crankshaft rotation that the points remain closed as the engine runs. Wider point gap = lower dwell reading. Stock dwell spec for a 352 is 28*-32*. The longer the points are closed the more coil saturation the better the spark. If you narrow the point gap you get more dwell but start arc and burning the points.The points in a dual point are timed so you can get more dwell without closing the gap. The reason dual points work so well is you can increase the dwell for more coil saturation without closing the point gap causing other problems. Thats all a dual point was ment to do with the advent of electronic ignition daul points have become obsolete.

 

But it is acting funny and needs constant maintinence, Install of new points about every 10K or less, and dont you just love point float........By pulling the points and installing a electronic unit, there is no points filing, or did i get it right questions....Some old skooll things just are not better....

Electronic ignitions were develped for a reason...

Garbz

 

True, but he'll still be driving after the nuclear holocust shuts down all others electronic ignitions

 

LOL....Another embrace the fireball fan.....Yes, hence the keep a set of points and condensor in the glove box....Just in case......

Garbz

 

This distributor was GIVEN to me by another member who is a very close friend of mine. It was amazing the difference it made over the original distributor. Free + runs lots better = good deal. Take a look at my sig, All of my trucks are toys, they are also all DD's. I do well to keep up on normal repair items in terms of money. The 86 Eddie Bauer bronco right now needs a motor, this is the wife's chosen DD. The whole "yank it and go electronic" sounds great- really. Can I get it for the same price as the distributor that is in it now? I wasn't trying to stir up anything by asking the question, I just wanted to know the proper procedure for setting my points.

 

Pointless ignition. Set it and forget it !!

 

Why, when I ask how to set my points, do I get these answers? Let's try this: HOW DO I SET MY POINTS ON A DUAL POINT DISTRIBUTOR?

Rusbukt, did you read my last post, right above yours?

This section of the forum is really going to hell. Used to be if I asked a question, I got a good straight answer. COBRAGUY is the only one who made any attempt at all at a straight answer. The rest of you say to go buy a pointless ignition. I'm beginning to think the 61-66 section is what is pointless.

If you don't like my question, or what I have under my hood- please do not respond. I absolutely love FTE, don't know how I lived without it, but this thread is very rapidly leaving a bad taste in my mouth.

 

Lighten up a little Charles and enjoy the ride!
Most of us cannot help you because we long ago ditched our factory points distributors, much less messed w/ a dual point Mallory. I believe though, you will need at least a timing light and dwell meter to get it close. If you don't have the basic tools to make the adjustment, you need to start there, or use that money to buy an electronic setup. If you do have the required equipment, then I'd suggest you google your question or go to the Mallory website and do a search there.

Here...took all of 2 minutes. I hope it helps and the bad taste went away!
Century Performance Center, Inc. :: Setting Breaker Points