Thanks to all, this is the sort of info I was looking for in the first place. Now this thread is getting good.

 

This is a comment and ? from and old man, read every comment from start to here. As a teenager in late 50's we couldn't afford Mallory dizzys, but we bought and install Mallory dual point coversion kits in our stock dizzys. We did not do all the dwell checking that you would do today, (didn't understand it at that time). We set the gap of each set of points the same and each set had to be brought up on the high point of the lobe separately. We did this with flat heads, Y blocks, FE's. we were loking for better performance and LONGER POINT LIFE, and we got it.
Remember the earlier 12 volt systems had the resistor on the firewall or fender well to drop the running voltage through the coil and points to 6 to 8 volts so you wouldn't burn the points out, but when the starter was engaged it put 12 volts to the coil for start up.
Then we went to a resistence type wire from the coil to the dizzy and eliminated the fire wall/ fender well resistor and that wire reduced our voltage to the points so they wouldn't burn and give us reasonable amount of point life.
Cfrives3, do you know if your dizzy requires and has and external resistor or the lead from the coil to dizz has a special resistence?
And finally I don't remember the point gap. that was always included by Mallory in the coversion instructions, as mentioned by others their web site would prob be best source
Does anybody remember "Snap Gap"

 

Yes sir, I do know that. Since this truck has had a points style ignition it's whole life, I am assuming (possibly wrong) that it has either the resistor or the special wire somewhere. If you burn out sets of points by not having that amount of resistance, then I will assume (again, possibly wrong) that it's got it because I have only put points in this truck once (I think) in the almost ten years I have had it. This truck gets used as a daily driver when something else breaks down in the "fleet".

You mentioned also not even using a dwell meter. When we did the points in it, we didn't use one either, we didn't have one, nor would we have known what we were doing if we did. We had 10 different people telling us 10 different ways to do it so we said screw it, we'll figure it out ourselves, which we did. I know that when someone gives false info here on FTE, someone else steps up and says so, then gives the correct procedure. That's why I posted here, to avoid screwing with it for 3 days like the last time we did it. I have gotten a couple emails about this thread already, and after I get the brakes right, I think I'm gonna give this a shot. Thanks again to all who are taking the time to reply.

 

I,ll throw my two cents in, the way I always done the setting on the dual points as Cobraguy said, but I just put a piece of paper between the points that I wasn't setting and didn't disconnect them.