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I'll give you one to have fun with........In stock configuration (remember, stock configuration), there's no reason to delete the egr system. Now, respond wisely, think like a doctor, treat the cause, not the symptom.
The way I see it is the biggest problem with the egr system is the egr valve gums up with soot caused by excessive idling or crappy fuel.So don't idle the truck and burn good fuel and you shouldn't have a problem with the egr valve sticking open.As for cooler failure I am under the impression that the cooler over heats with poor coolant circulation caused by a blocked oil cooler which causes the joints in the cooler to crack causing a leak.So if the coolant is casting sand free that shouldn't be a problem. But I am a bricklayer not a tech so I will wait for the teacher to provide the correct answer.
Good point, My EGR cooler went out and the oil cooler was pluged. Does that mean we can't go 100,000 miles on coolant, because of clogging up the system?
The casting sand left from production is the culprit. Some trucks have it worse than others if I were you I would put a by pass filter on or you risk the same problem in the future.My truck has no sign of sand and a friends has sand in the coolant bottle.
You don't have to delete the EGR. As brickie posted, you can install a coolant filter to avoid EOC blockage. You could also clean the EGR valve every 5K or 10K depending on usage and idling time. Then again, welding it shut and unplugging isn't technically deleting it....
I think I saw a thread saying that by unpluging the egr the truck will go into some kind of safe mode for EPA reason. Not sure on that. I got emission test comeing up so mine is plug in. Will see.
I think I saw a thread saying that by unpluging the egr the truck will go into some kind of safe mode for EPA reason. Not sure on that. I got emission test comeing up so mine is plug in. Will see.
When the egr valve is unplugged, the vgt goes into default (the vanes are set at one spot). At low speed, the vanes are set for more boost than normal, but at higher rpms, it has less. Thats why it seems to have more power. When the vanes are at default, there is more chance that they will rust in place as well.
Lets start with the CCV, because, in everyones opinion, its related to the oily deposits on the egr valves. Ask your favorite tech how much he uses his magnahelic (SP?) guage. Chances are he doesn't know if the dealership has one. Its a guage set, with several guages on it. One measures (with an adapter) blow by. If you're getting excessive oil in your CCV, this needs to be measured for problems (and yes, there is specs on that). Doing the CCV mod is like taking an aspirin for a toothache, it feels better, but the problem is still there.
When the egr valve is unplugged, the vgt goes into default (the vanes are set at one spot). At low speed, the vanes are set for more boost than normal, but at higher rpms, it has less. Thats why it seems to have more power. When the vanes are at default, there is more chance that they will rust in place as well.