Manual Hub Installation Help
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 181
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From: P.N.W. / Wa.
mmhoward...........
. . . . did you mean like this >>> 250227273523 <<< ( use this for on the SEARCH on E-butt ) . . . . LOLOL . . . . you know what i mean, right . . . . this seem's to be of that same as the one's that WARN sell's . . . . pretty much of the same pricing, too. . . . .
.....and here's a number to look & see of the MileMarker Hub's it's-self >>> 310029300351 <<< . . . .
mr. Charles
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 617
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From: Los Alamos
mmhoward, around here the local NAPA usually has the parts your looking for in stock. (but I live in the mountains so there's lots of trucks...)
ignore the arrow, it was the only picture I had without hunting all over....but that style is what you need, and that is all you will have under the hub..just make sure once you torque the outer nut (lock nut) you recheck tension on your bearings..with new nuts it's not usually a problem, but sometimes when you set your preload, (the inner nut being pushed outward) and line up your pin and lockwasher, then install the lock nut and torque (which is now applying force inwards) if you have play in the threads, it can alter your preload enough to ruin a set of bearings rather quickly. Just a heads up.. doublecheck doublecheck, doublecheck!
ignore the arrow, it was the only picture I had without hunting all over....but that style is what you need, and that is all you will have under the hub..just make sure once you torque the outer nut (lock nut) you recheck tension on your bearings..with new nuts it's not usually a problem, but sometimes when you set your preload, (the inner nut being pushed outward) and line up your pin and lockwasher, then install the lock nut and torque (which is now applying force inwards) if you have play in the threads, it can alter your preload enough to ruin a set of bearings rather quickly. Just a heads up.. doublecheck doublecheck, doublecheck!
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Memphis, TN
I got the Warn conversion kit and installed it.
Now I have another problem. The halfshaft is not long enough for me to get the snap ring on. Not by just a little but quite a bit.
I tore it down all the way and pulled the halfshaft out and put it back in and started over to make sure everything was seated. That is when I noticed that the bearing with the dust cover on the back of the rotor is not even really making a seal. No matter how hard I try that rotor is not moving back any further.
Is it possible that the rotor is not the correct one? Is it possible that the halfshaft is too short? A pry bar on the half to try and press it further did no good.
Thanks,
michael
Now I have another problem. The halfshaft is not long enough for me to get the snap ring on. Not by just a little but quite a bit.
I tore it down all the way and pulled the halfshaft out and put it back in and started over to make sure everything was seated. That is when I noticed that the bearing with the dust cover on the back of the rotor is not even really making a seal. No matter how hard I try that rotor is not moving back any further.
Is it possible that the rotor is not the correct one? Is it possible that the halfshaft is too short? A pry bar on the half to try and press it further did no good.
Thanks,
michael
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 617
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From: Los Alamos
I usually pull on the shaft by a bolt threaded into the end..most have a threaded hole in the end, and pull with pliers/vice grips while I push the inner hub assy in place, but if the seal isn't riding on it's surface, something isn't right..
So the preload is set and the bearings and retainer nuts are all on, but it isn't far enough on the spindle so the seal is riding good? Does it spin nice when you set the preload, with no play in it?
I'd pull the seal (you'll need a new one, they dont come out in good shape) and pull that inner bearing and check that it slides up on the spindle all the way (should be marks on the spindle showing you where they used to sit), and make sure the seal fits on the spindle nice..same with the outer bearing. Slide everything in place one at a time, make sure it all fits right. Sometimes a small ding on the spindle can cause the inner bearing to not slide up right, or in extreme cases where a bearing has frozen and spun on the spindle, I have seen people use a center punch to divot up the spindle so the bearing will fit tight again.
If all that looks good, see if you can find a number on the hub and rotor assembly.
So the preload is set and the bearings and retainer nuts are all on, but it isn't far enough on the spindle so the seal is riding good? Does it spin nice when you set the preload, with no play in it?
I'd pull the seal (you'll need a new one, they dont come out in good shape) and pull that inner bearing and check that it slides up on the spindle all the way (should be marks on the spindle showing you where they used to sit), and make sure the seal fits on the spindle nice..same with the outer bearing. Slide everything in place one at a time, make sure it all fits right. Sometimes a small ding on the spindle can cause the inner bearing to not slide up right, or in extreme cases where a bearing has frozen and spun on the spindle, I have seen people use a center punch to divot up the spindle so the bearing will fit tight again.
If all that looks good, see if you can find a number on the hub and rotor assembly.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 76
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From: Memphis, TN
By the dirt and gunk buildup on the back of the spindle, this has been this way for a very long time.
We were pushing and pulling on shaft and the inner hub. The hub slides in till hits the stops on it and will not go any further. The shaft goes as far as possible and bottoms out. Still too short to put the snap ring on.
BChance, you are correct that everything is on but it does not go up far enough on the spindle. It looks like it is about 3/16 out. It does spind nice and has no play in it.
I pulled the seal and bearing last night. Once we cleaned all the gunk off the spindle the seal went up on it fine. I did not try to slide the bearing.
The number on the rotor is 636092 and the name on it is Century. I did not see a number on the hub.
thanks,
michael
We were pushing and pulling on shaft and the inner hub. The hub slides in till hits the stops on it and will not go any further. The shaft goes as far as possible and bottoms out. Still too short to put the snap ring on.
BChance, you are correct that everything is on but it does not go up far enough on the spindle. It looks like it is about 3/16 out. It does spind nice and has no play in it.
I pulled the seal and bearing last night. Once we cleaned all the gunk off the spindle the seal went up on it fine. I did not try to slide the bearing.
The number on the rotor is 636092 and the name on it is Century. I did not see a number on the hub.
thanks,
michael
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 76
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From: Memphis, TN
Is there a chance that the bearing is not the right size which is causing it not to go all the way on?
Also, what is the difference between the 1995 spindle between the pre 5/95 and post 5/95?
Also, what is the difference between the 1995 spindle between the pre 5/95 and post 5/95?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 617
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From: Los Alamos
Should be no difference at all in the spindle or bearing #s..
If you look in the back of the rotor, with the inner bearing out, can you see if the bearing race is set all the way in?
Sorry mmhoward...I know I'm just not clicking on something here..can you get the number off the back of the bearing (inner)?
If you look in the back of the rotor, with the inner bearing out, can you see if the bearing race is set all the way in?
Sorry mmhoward...I know I'm just not clicking on something here..can you get the number off the back of the bearing (inner)?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
From: Los Alamos
You were right...difference in the hub started at 5/95...I'm going to have to hunt through the books though..knew I was missing SOMETHING....
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 617
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From: Los Alamos
I also sent a PM to NumberDummy.. Bill worked parts forever and can quote this stuff off the top of his head better that I can look it up.. hopefully he can help, I'm not doing you much good I'm afraid..
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 76
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From: Memphis, TN
If it makes any difference, my truck was built in 94. Not sure of the month off the top of my head.
It will be a while before I can get the bearing number since the hub is re-assembled right now. I had to get it out of the garage before I got divorced.
It will be a while before I can get the bearing number since the hub is re-assembled right now. I had to get it out of the garage before I got divorced.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 790
From: Simi Valley, CA
4WD. I'll need the front axle tag number, otherwise there's just too many variables.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 790
From: Simi Valley, CA
To look up just a simple front hub, without the tag number is a major pain in the you know where.
Ford sez: with/without certain gear ratios, with/without free running hubs, before and after serial numbers, the front axle weight capacity must be known in some cases, production date changes. Now add to that, the in-experience of 4WD's by the looker in the booker = me, and the fact I'm using microfiche with a Chrysler reader that has less resolution than the Ford type.
I'm sorry, for without that tag number, it's too dang much trouble, because every parts list must be looked at comparing part numbers. If the number matches, that's just ducky. If it doesn't, it's back to square one.
Ford sez: with/without certain gear ratios, with/without free running hubs, before and after serial numbers, the front axle weight capacity must be known in some cases, production date changes. Now add to that, the in-experience of 4WD's by the looker in the booker = me, and the fact I'm using microfiche with a Chrysler reader that has less resolution than the Ford type.
I'm sorry, for without that tag number, it's too dang much trouble, because every parts list must be looked at comparing part numbers. If the number matches, that's just ducky. If it doesn't, it's back to square one.
