Ok I got the carb problem and timing sorted out on this old f-100 of mine.

Now she will crank every time.

Only problem is she now has gas pouring out around the distributor seal on the block!!!

We had to literally take all the plugs out and dry crank her due to the cylinders being flooded out with gas so bad. It sounds like the entire engine block is flooded out with gas.

Some major advice needed on this one guys. I am afraid to crank her any more for fear of royally messing up the block.

 

Take out the drain plug drain eveything out. Fill it up with 6 qt's of 30wt. oil and a new FL-1A Filter.

Sounds like the float is sticking open and dumping gas into the motor.

Clean/rebuild carb.

Try to start.
If it runs warm it up good till it's hot than drain the oil and fill it with what you want. Use and FL-1A Filter!!

Evan

 

Well I don't think a rebuild will do anything since I just put on a new Autolite Carb to replace the shot motorcraft one.

I kinda figured I was gonna have to change the oil in her. I just wanted to confirm this.

Well I guess I got my motor flushed out pretty good by this at least.


I just hope it didn't screw up the seals in the motor.


Thanks for the help.

 

Make sure you have a good fuel filter before the carb. You may end up pulling the gas tank if it's really full of crud. You can put new carbs on all day, and watch each one flood the engine if you have a dirt problem in the fuel.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 14-Oct-02 AT 06:51 PM (EST)]Well this truck has the fuel filter on the pump as well as a glass fuel filter at the carb.

From what I have seen of the gas it does not have any trash in it.

I changed the oil today with some Qaker State high mileage oil as a precaution against the seals being a little stripped and she will fire right up no soke just some minor backfires fromthe pipes and carb ocasionally. I figured the seal swelling stuff should help prevent any leaks until the residual gas is flushed out/burnt off.

I need to get the carb adjusted however due to the idle being so low it stalls if you ket it idle. Ran out of time today due to the weather.

I think she is almost ready to be driven finally.

 

Assuming that it has a mechanical fuel pump, I would check it to make sure that it is not pumping gas directly into the block.

 

Hmmm.... the only thing that disturbs me is that the only way that fuel is going to get into the engine block is from running past the rings (very unlikely unless devine intervention is keeping the fuel from burning in the cylinders when the spark plugs are firing) or if you have a hole in your mechanical fuel pump diaphram. Call me crazy but that is the only thing that could be spraying gas directly onto the ditributor shaft and coming out of the seal. Do yourself a favor and install a pressure gauge on the fuel pump outlet and see what it is pumping out. Should be 4-6 psi. And please do us a favor and remove the coil wire from the distributor before cranking it up again. If you have an over abundant amount of fuel spraying into the engine block the whole thing could turn into a bomb if you run the truck to long with it filling with gas due to a bad diaphram. Just my two cents.

 

Yes it has a mechanical fuel pump on it. The original one actually.

Has the canister filter on it attached at the bottom of the pump on the drivers side of the block.

Now I am seriously worried. The engine cranks and runs but with low idle. I will check the oil for signs of gas in it tomorrow and if it does show this I will look into a new fuel pump. I know a place I can get a performance pump for around 40 dollars. Unless this might put too much of a strain on the fuel system.

Along those lines, This truck has a dual line fuel rail running from the rear of the truck. the two metal lines run inside the frame rails until they get to the front frame under the engine then one connects directly to the inlet on the fuel pump whil the other bypasses the fuel pmp entirely and joins into the fuel line above the pump just before the carb fuel filter.

Is this config really required to work or would I be better off upgrading the lines to a single line setup and a new high flow fuel pump? Also, woul it be a good idea to eliminate as much of the rubber fuel line as possible and maybe even go for all metal except for at the fuel filter? (Filter has rubber lines at each end to attach it to the metal lines.)

I am glad you guys pointed out the possibility of the pump I hadn't even thought of that as a possible source for the gas leak. Wouldn't the pump leak externally though if this happened?

 

Pheonix The dual line set up is for bypass fuel to return to the tank. You know the excess that the carb doest need. Helps keep the carb from flooding due to a weak needle and seat on the float. You can remove the line but you should think about keeping it. I know it looks cheesy. The rubber for metal lines is a good idea but keep in mind the engine shifts when you romp on the gas. You could just replace the rubber lines for steel braided ones. Just another suggestion. As far as the better pump goes. You may end up having to install a pressure regulater to keep the pressure where the carb can manage it. Too much pressure and you could over come the carb floats and the you are sitting there at the light wondering why it sounds like the engine is supper lopey and fluctuating.

 

I went with the stock replacement pump but mother nature has decided to make me take a day off from working on the truck. Been a regular monsoon here today.

As soon as it stops raining long enough for me to get the new pump installed I should be ready to ride.