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I have read on the net that running a coolant line from the rear water jacket on the heads to the line from the heater to the water pump will provide better cooling. Of coarse, this will require some drilling and tapping of the intake manifold. Has anyone done this?? What were the results??
I have windsor stroked to a 408 which does not like to running cool.
You can do it but you have to route the line correctly. If you route them wrong you may end up having uneven cylinder temps and the a warped block or heads. Have you thought of using "wetter water"? It'is a additive that increases the heat transfer rate of water as much as 15%. Hope this helps.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 16-Oct-02 AT 09:17 PM (EST)]I have used water wetter with out noticable results. I went from my staggered 4-core copper/brass radiator to the be cool bronco aluminum radiator with their electric fan. I have a flow cooler high volume water pump with 78 factory pulleys. All this and I still can't let it idle for more than 10 minutes or run it hard for about the same amount of time. Since this truck spends most of her time in silver lake sand dunes (or waiting in line to get in), stopping to cool off isn't fun.
I think my next step might be some ducting to improve air flow and maybe the modification originally described but I was hoping for some more positive feed back; havn't gotten it here or else where.
Have you done a radiator flush? I know you said you put a new radiator in but your engine block could have a bunch of scale and deposits in it. Just a thought.
I don't know why an engine should overheat like that. I'd suggest using 60/40 mix of distilled water/coolant. You probably already know that the specific heat of water (its heat carrying capacity) is about twice that of coolant. My local grocery store sells distilled water. And I'd use synthetic motor oil for two reasons; first it will help prevent heat in the engine due to friction, second it will tolerate the high heat much better than conventional motor oil.
My 5.0 HO Mustang runs cooler with Mobil 1 motor oil in the crankcase. You can see the difference right on the temperature gauge.
I suppose you have a radiator shroud, and the fan clutch is working ok. Usually I'd say use a 195 thermostat to reduce friction, but in your case you might as well use a 180 because it sounds like your engine runs hot anyway.
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