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Hey, ok. I have a braking problem. When i'm slowing down pressing on the brake my eb sways left to right. Not a wobble, its a slow sway. It has just started doing this the last 3 or 4 days. I notice it the most when slowing down from higher speeds. Mostly when i'm getting off the freeway on the offramp. I have drum brakes front and rear and i was just about to go to disc on the front i just need a few more parts. Do you think its the drum brakes causing the problem or something else?
yes
think so but not hoepless.
i have found my 68 usually has an adjuster frozen or slave cylinder stuck.
it is because i back mine in the water.........all four wheels..
Does it just go left to right or does it go all over? Most likely as Dodmort suggested, you need to adjust your brakes. The self adjusters are unreliable when they get dirty, rusted or worn.
Jason, no it like a light pull to the left then light pull to the right then light pull to the left and so on back and forth, untill i stop or let off the brake. My foot pressure stays the same while this is happening. If i stop it stops of course and if i release the brake the bronco straightens right up.
Now i am also thinking possibly something to do with the tires? I was thinking and i just rotated them about the time this started happening? I'm going to try putting them back where they where and see if it gose away. Its wiered it only happens while brakeing though.
How is your steering? Nothing that may have come loose in the front end?
Normally it should happen all the time, but you never know.
Same thing with a tire related pull, should be happening even if you aren't on the brakes. Have you noticed any virbration, possibly from loose lug nuts?
Here's the thing about drum brakes take it from me: with four wheel drum brakes you need to first pressurize the system for the vehicle to brake straight. Instead of just stepping on the pedal you will need to use ESP and with you think you will need to use the brakes first lightly press down on the brake pedal. This will set the system. Then press down hard to stop and you will stop straight. Try this in an empty parking lot.
This trick was give to me by and old hotrodder friend who's first ride was a chopped channeled 30 Ford fenderless coupe that was upgraded from mechanical brakes all four courners to hydraulic drum brakes in the rear only. (no front brakes)
Next try a redisual pressure valve from willwood for drums in the front line. I never have used one because I trash drum brakes on every vehicle I find them on.
You can thank the Tom Andersons for them. European cars always had disc brakes, what make lots of dust. That's why the came with painted wheels and blackwall tires. Americans preferred the shine of a whitewall tire while cruising to church on a Sunday and hence drum brakes. Idiots!
Here's the thing about drum brakes take it from me: with four wheel drum brakes you need to first pressurize the system for the vehicle to brake straight. Instead of just stepping on the pedal you will need to use ESP and with you think you will need to use the brakes first lightly press down on the brake pedal. This will set the system.
Uhhhhh.... No. If your brakes are properly adjusted and have no air in the lines, you should not need to pre pressurize anything. If you have to pump them once or twice, your brakes need adjusted. Whether it is a light application or a panic stop, one push of the pedal should stop straight as an arrow.
Its not the air professor its the fact that the shoes never wear totally round and the drums get out of round and unless you always play with the brake shoe adjuster at the bottom of the assembly your vehicle will always want to pull to one side of the other. Usually right because the left side get pressure quicker as it closed to the MC and wears the shoes more and heats the left drum worse over time you get less round shoes and a less round drum on the left than the right. That's just my guess.
Drums are junk..... you live with them until you can afford to throw them into the scrap heap.... just my opinion!
You also arn't pumping twice... you first slip your foot onto the pedal and push in gently so you are not slowing down, but resting your foot on the brake pedal... then you hit it.... stops straight.
Its not the air professor its the fact that the shoes never wear totally round and the drums get out of round and unless you always play with the brake shoe adjuster at the bottom of the assembly your vehicle will always want to pull to one side of the other. Usually right because the left side get pressure quicker as it closed to the MC and wears the shoes more and heats the left drum worse over time you get less round shoes and a less round drum on the left than the right. That's just my guess.
Drums are junk..... you live with them until you can afford to throw them into the scrap heap.... just my opinion!
If the drums are not out of spec and the return springs are in good shape they will wear pretty evenly across the shoes. As they wear, you'll tend to get a little more contact on the cyl ends. The drums will not be out of round because the shoe should always be contacting equally on the drum surface.
In a hydraulic system, the length of the line will not affect the speed of fluid movement since there is a constant supply of fluid in the lines. It will not overheat either the left, right, front or rear brakes.
Drum brakes are actually pretty efficent braking systems. Their main disadvantages are heat disappation, brake fade and wet performance.
i have been paying closer attention to my problem, and have noticed that it seems like it is mostly a pull to the right. It seems the worst when i'm pressing harder on the brake like when getting off the freeway. When i corect for it is when i'm getting the sway. So i think that Jason is right about brake adjustment. Pryor to this it always stoped in a straight line without haveing to prime the system. Anyway, I am going to be installing my front disc conversion this weekend so i think that will take care of my problem.
thanks for the help.
who are u getting it from
let me know the cost..
i have negleted my EBs working on my m 715...
for cost on the 715 to go disc makes them stay drums but it will be hard for this truck to go 55 MPH..
I have been putting together junk yard pieces for about 3 weeks now. I finally got everything i need. New bearings and seals, rotors and caliper. In total it has cost about $450 - $500. Not to shabby. Better then the $700 - $1000 that the new kits cost.