I have a 68 f100 with a 360. Having trouble getting the headders to stop leaking at the heads . Tried different gaskets ,new headders more gaskets still leaks. Has anyone got the answer to my leaky headders? Thanks for any help. Greg Blackmon

 

This way is the redneck way, but it works. Use copper ultra RTV. My friend used it on his truck because he couldn't get a gasket, and it has held up for a year and a half now.

 

When you put a new gasket on there, hold it up against the head and the headers, and make sure they will actually seal - the gaskets for my 360/390's, the holes were bigger than the header ports.

I used 330 exhaust gaskets with the holes cut open to match the header, and red hi-temp RTV - they lasted for 15 years.

 

Just curious, I have the same leaking problem on my 360 with Hooker Headers.


I did not put loctite on the bolts, should I put that on there as well? If I do when I tighten it up (which I usually have to do after a couple of hundred miles) how will the loctite still work?

Just curious.
Thanks
Mike

 

all headers leak! get used to it!

 

If you happen to match the headers ports to the heads reduces the leaks greatly. But most gust by header because the mfg say they fit, and do not even look a the exhaust ports. Not all heads are the same, as with headers flanges. With the right fit you will not have the problem. I have had to weld an outer bead on the headers to seal against the heads. But the newer High temp RTV works well. Use the factory gaskets and law over the headers and see how they align up. There are at leset 2 different sets of exh gaskets.

I have more problem with the collector flanges leaking, I use copper gaskets there.

 

Sorry man, mine have never leaked.

Go with the copper gaskets that crush into place.

 

I've used the copper gaskets and they worked ok. But still leaked slightly. I did order a set of the Remflex gaskets as to me they look like a pretty good solution. And in my case the header bolts are a bitch to get at no less gasket swaps. And the Hooker super comps have a good 1/16"+ lip where the tubes go thru the flange. The Remflex gaskets are a little expensive but if they work it's well worth the aggravation of chasing leaks. I've spoken with several guys who use them and swear by them...not at them. LOL. I'm hoping they are a good solution while they might not be for everyone.

 

i do use the copper gaskets and they still leak. the problem is that you cant get to all the bolts so some of the bolt you cant get very tight

 

Use the RTV like 65f100 352 says...it works.

 

I have to say, that if you use a U-joint swivel, and a 3/8" drive ratchet/extension, you will be able to get to all the bolts on the header, although there are several types of headers out there (if you get the block huggers this is more difficult) but all the bolts are tightened to their proper torque values. Just depends on how determined you are, and how much of a stickler you can be.

Also, regarding loctite on exhaust bolts, I think i saw this on this thread, maybe it was on the other header leak thread lol!! Don't use loctite on exhaust bolts, if anything use N-5000 After a few thousand miles on your new bolts, whether you use locktite or nothing at all, you will have fun removing bolts. Use N-5000 or equivalent high temp never seize, I work as a mechanic (boilermaker/pipefitter) at a power plant, where temps exceed 900degrees and pressures around 2000 psi on our piping and pumps/valves, we use neverseize (N-5000) and even after 5-6 years of service at these extreme temps, we don't break bolts, we don't have bolts loosen unwantedly, and don't have any issues needing torches to remove bolts.

Loctite is exactly that, LOCK TIGHT, sorry, I have a passion to correct people's misuse of loctite products, their name is loctite, but they have over 75 different products, only a few of which actually are used as such.