Front end troubles!
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 275
Likes: 9
From: San Antonio
you're auto hub holds the tip of the axel shaft...
the axel bearing on the back side of the hub assy may look "ok" but may be worn. clean it with some WD40 or brake cleaner and run your finger around it, roll the needle bearings, and feel for flat spots...
lemme double check with you... with everything completely together, did you get wobble on the axel when checking it from the U-joint side? (I had wobble there)
the axel shaft will wobble a little if you are checking it with the auto hub off.
the auto hub acts like a bearing on one end, then you have the axel bearing in the hub assy, giving you essentially 2 bearings about 6 inches or so apart keeping the axel "stable"....
a new axel bearing comes in the new hub assy, when put back together mine was rock solid from the u-joint side....
if you need pics from the ford manual, send me an email
the axel bearing on the back side of the hub assy may look "ok" but may be worn. clean it with some WD40 or brake cleaner and run your finger around it, roll the needle bearings, and feel for flat spots...
lemme double check with you... with everything completely together, did you get wobble on the axel when checking it from the U-joint side? (I had wobble there)
the axel shaft will wobble a little if you are checking it with the auto hub off.
the auto hub acts like a bearing on one end, then you have the axel bearing in the hub assy, giving you essentially 2 bearings about 6 inches or so apart keeping the axel "stable"....
a new axel bearing comes in the new hub assy, when put back together mine was rock solid from the u-joint side....
if you need pics from the ford manual, send me an email
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 13
From: Cleburne
I got it apart, I think I'm gonna go ahead and replace that inner needle bearing. I will send you a email for pics. Thanks. It did wobble a little from the u joint side, with lock outs off, I honestly did not check it with it on.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,613
Likes: 9
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Originally Posted by Technitom
OK I just did this a couple days ago...
if you removed the auto hub, then there is a snap ring followed by three thrust washers (keep them in order, round>hex>round)
there is no nut, just the axel shaft.
if the axel shaft is wobbly, the needle bearings are probably bad...
NOTE: that may not be the only thing bad, read on...
you will have to remove the hub bearing assembly.
first remove the two bolts holding the caliper bracket (not the calipers, the whole brake assembly)
gently lift off assembly, roll it over and lay it on top the leaf spring. (you dont have to remove brake lines)
turn the wheel all the way in one direction to get access to two of the 4 nuts holding on the hub assembly, turn wheel opposite direction to get at other two nuts.
grab a hammer and tap on the hub assembly to get it to free up for removal.
slide hub assy part way out, notice the heatshield may either stick to the hub assy or stay on the truck, watch for a large washer to fall out while continuing to remove the hub assy...
ok you got the hub assy out, heatshield off, and possibly the washer... if you dont have the washer look up in the hole or on the back of the hub assy.
find a flat place to lay the hub assy. you will see the hub assy is 2 parts. there is also a bearing that is pressed into the back of the hub assy.
this is the most important part of the check
with the hub flat, see if you can wobble the big outer collar of the hub assy.
if it is rock solid you are in luck! all you have to do is pull the little bearing on the back of the hub and replace it. be sure to check the axel shaft for scoring and polish with emery cloth if needed.
if it wobbles, get your wallet out!!! you're talking $380-$450 for a ford factory replacement. you can get a cheaper aftermaket one but remember you might just get what you paying for... I chose the factory hub assy because I know it is a high quality timken bearing, not some cheap POS "made who knows where?"
OH! I found this link on the forums http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/nblube.html
also read these threads
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pointers.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...aring+assembly
good luck!
if you removed the auto hub, then there is a snap ring followed by three thrust washers (keep them in order, round>hex>round)
there is no nut, just the axel shaft.
if the axel shaft is wobbly, the needle bearings are probably bad...
NOTE: that may not be the only thing bad, read on...
you will have to remove the hub bearing assembly.
first remove the two bolts holding the caliper bracket (not the calipers, the whole brake assembly)
gently lift off assembly, roll it over and lay it on top the leaf spring. (you dont have to remove brake lines)
turn the wheel all the way in one direction to get access to two of the 4 nuts holding on the hub assembly, turn wheel opposite direction to get at other two nuts.
grab a hammer and tap on the hub assembly to get it to free up for removal.
slide hub assy part way out, notice the heatshield may either stick to the hub assy or stay on the truck, watch for a large washer to fall out while continuing to remove the hub assy...
ok you got the hub assy out, heatshield off, and possibly the washer... if you dont have the washer look up in the hole or on the back of the hub assy.
find a flat place to lay the hub assy. you will see the hub assy is 2 parts. there is also a bearing that is pressed into the back of the hub assy.
this is the most important part of the check
with the hub flat, see if you can wobble the big outer collar of the hub assy.
if it is rock solid you are in luck! all you have to do is pull the little bearing on the back of the hub and replace it. be sure to check the axel shaft for scoring and polish with emery cloth if needed.
if it wobbles, get your wallet out!!! you're talking $380-$450 for a ford factory replacement. you can get a cheaper aftermaket one but remember you might just get what you paying for... I chose the factory hub assy because I know it is a high quality timken bearing, not some cheap POS "made who knows where?"
OH! I found this link on the forums http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/nblube.html
also read these threads
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pointers.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...aring+assembly
good luck!
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 275
Likes: 9
From: San Antonio
Make sure you butter those seals with high temp water resistant grease before you put the hubs back in, you dont wanna pinch or drag that seal on something when you install it.
I had the ford manual out looking for some good pics, ford manual says to replace the whole thing, I guess they'd rather you spend $380-$400 insted of buying a new bearing for a few bucks (A$$ HOLES!)
that link above to that guzzle site had some better pics. lemme know how it works out?
I had the ford manual out looking for some good pics, ford manual says to replace the whole thing, I guess they'd rather you spend $380-$400 insted of buying a new bearing for a few bucks (A$$ HOLES!)
that link above to that guzzle site had some better pics. lemme know how it works out?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 275
Likes: 9
From: San Antonio
NICE Robin!
took me a minute to figure out you dont need the www on the front, lol
http://seven.three.superdutypsd.com/
took me a minute to figure out you dont need the www on the front, lol
http://seven.three.superdutypsd.com/
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
[QUOTE=Technitom]NICE Robin!
took me a minute to figure out you dont need the www on the front, lol
http://seven.three.superdutypsd.com/[/QUOTE]
The site is loaded with good info.
took me a minute to figure out you dont need the www on the front, lol
http://seven.three.superdutypsd.com/[/QUOTE]
The site is loaded with good info.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Peyton, CO
Tom, Just got back into town, I have been working out of state. I havent done anything you said in the post but intend to as soon as I get time. Wonderful post by the way(makes sense). I took the truck with me to Wyoming, I had one of my employee's drive while I sat in the back, and sure enough the sound was there to. Sounded like it was under the back seat. So as soon as I can I will tear into drive line to replace all u joints and carrier bearing. I notices a little slop in drive line at the carrier bearing, where the drive line slips into the other(very minumal). No up and down play except at the carrier bearing (normal but I will change anyway). How much shim should I do at carrier bearing?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 13
From: Cleburne
Mines back together! Yea! Still has a little vibration, gonna look at tires. Didn't spin my wheels, need the seals real bad anyway. Besides got new needle bearings now. I did have one assembly that was tight, but made a "spring" kind of noise when you turn it. Probably going bad, we'll see. It didn't feel like it was binding or anything. I am expecting to change it out if tires don't do any good.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 275
Likes: 9
From: San Antonio
SCOTT,
my suspension is stock and I shimmed it with a piece of 1-1/2" flat stock 1/2" thick. which was nice because I could still use original bolts
the rule of thumb is 1/4" shim for every 1" of lift on lifted trucks, but I've also heard of guys here on FTE having to go 1/2" shim for every 1".
most guys shim 1/4" for starters and keep adding shims until the takeoff vibration goes away, they continue adding shims until it comes back, then split the difference to find a happy medium...
find the sweet spot... alot of the guys try to go with a single shim the thickness they need instead of a stack...
ROYSON,
Sounds like you're on the right track! do yourself a favor and replace the bearing... spend $20 now for bearing and seal and just get it over with..
OR
you can get bent over the parts counter later... like me... (it aint fun
, it hurts *sniff*)
my suspension is stock and I shimmed it with a piece of 1-1/2" flat stock 1/2" thick. which was nice because I could still use original bolts
the rule of thumb is 1/4" shim for every 1" of lift on lifted trucks, but I've also heard of guys here on FTE having to go 1/2" shim for every 1".
most guys shim 1/4" for starters and keep adding shims until the takeoff vibration goes away, they continue adding shims until it comes back, then split the difference to find a happy medium...
find the sweet spot... alot of the guys try to go with a single shim the thickness they need instead of a stack...
ROYSON,
Sounds like you're on the right track! do yourself a favor and replace the bearing... spend $20 now for bearing and seal and just get it over with..
OR
you can get bent over the parts counter later... like me... (it aint fun
, it hurts *sniff*)
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 13
From: Cleburne
I did replace those bearing. Your talking about the needle bearings, right? The little bearing in the end of the spindle assembly. I just didn't replace the spindle assembly. But, I figure I'm going to. You can only buy that whole assembly right? I was told neighborhood of 380.00. I'm gonna take it one part at a time. I bought the truck, have no info on who used it or what it was used for. Gonna eventually do ujoint, carrier, bushings,shocks, ect.... as time permits.