78 460
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2003
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The carb has me puzzled. I have checked the site plugs couple times and no fuel runs out. I have taken it apart because not sure what the problem is. When it is idleing it will run you out of the shop. But idle not bad. Also when you go full throtle it puts out alot of smoke. Also do feel the secondary come in. Anyway while kid is on spring break I am going to pull it and check the trans slot to see it the butter flies are open to far.
I can't write what I want to do to that shop owner. Guess live and learn but tire of learning the hard way. And right now have no other car for my kid to drive to school. Ok I am through bitching.
I want you guys to know I appreciate you all for trying to help.
I can't write what I want to do to that shop owner. Guess live and learn but tire of learning the hard way. And right now have no other car for my kid to drive to school. Ok I am through bitching.
I want you guys to know I appreciate you all for trying to help.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I just did something similar to you but bought a re-man long block as a base.
Pics here;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/sets/72157604137164980/
I have no other wheels either, so it's always a PITA to run out and get those parts you never thought you'd need.
Pics here;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/sets/72157604137164980/
I have no other wheels either, so it's always a PITA to run out and get those parts you never thought you'd need.
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I replaced everything on and in the engine except block crank rods sheetmetal. I know I have to tune the carb or something. But thought I should get the cam timing problem first. I thought all I had to do was reposition the cam gear where the cam gear was straight up. I didn't know some cams have advance or retard built in. I know the cam gears pre 72 or straight up and after 72 are retarded 4 degrees. So thought this degree thing was all in the gear set. And I know that I put it in set with the 0 mark and should have used the one that was striaght inline with keyway and gear tooth, but didn't know this when I put it in. It appears after looking at a set at the parts store that the trangle mark is acturally straight up.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Sorry if you're confused.
In, or on, the stock cams the keyway was cut retarded from '72-88 when Ford went to Fuel Injection.
Some aftermarket cams DO have advance or retard built in, to work with the one slot timing set.
The "triangle" Means 'A' for advanced, according to my instructions.
0 is 0, and R is retarded.
Straight up is Keyway straight up, and pointing directly at a tooth. (the A mark on my set)
I (and you) don't know what cam you have, that's the problem. But it should still run.
You "replaced everything", including the harmonic balancer???
If not I'd check that against TDC #1 first.
In, or on, the stock cams the keyway was cut retarded from '72-88 when Ford went to Fuel Injection.
Some aftermarket cams DO have advance or retard built in, to work with the one slot timing set.
The "triangle" Means 'A' for advanced, according to my instructions.
0 is 0, and R is retarded.
Straight up is Keyway straight up, and pointing directly at a tooth. (the A mark on my set)
I (and you) don't know what cam you have, that's the problem. But it should still run.
You "replaced everything", including the harmonic balancer???
If not I'd check that against TDC #1 first.
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Freshman User
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Which year Cloyes timing set do you have. They have to part numbers one for pre 72 and one for post 72.
I didn't replace the harmonic balancer but the last time I set the timing I set it as advance as I could and still start it.
My son has been driving it for awhile this way. The only problem I have is it seems to have less power than before I rebuilt it. And it has been rich at idle for sure and maybe rich at cruise don't know.
I didn't replace the harmonic balancer but the last time I set the timing I set it as advance as I could and still start it.
My son has been driving it for awhile this way. The only problem I have is it seems to have less power than before I rebuilt it. And it has been rich at idle for sure and maybe rich at cruise don't know.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Bill,
I just realized I have the "stock" cam and brand new lifters I pulled out of my longblock before I even put it all together.
If you want these, PM me your address and you can have them for the actual price of shipping.
I just realized I have the "stock" cam and brand new lifters I pulled out of my longblock before I even put it all together.
If you want these, PM me your address and you can have them for the actual price of shipping.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2003
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Jim I pulled the front off this morning and the timing set is set at 0 degrees. The tooth and icon that is directly above the keyway on the crank. I was hoping that this gear set 0 mark was not true 0 but was wrong. So it was set straight up I guess which is what they told me to do.
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I can't PM or email you don't have permission. Anyway going to have to have it back together by wednesday evening anyway. so looks like just gona put back together for now don't know yet. Going to have to see if the kid has any options.
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I don't know if my email is current here haven't found where it is yet.
res0785p@suddenlink.net
res0785p@suddenlink.net
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
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with the front cover off bring it to TDC , then double check your cam marks ( A,0,R)
if they line up check rotor and make sure it is on #1 cylinder---this should help eliminate errors and give a good diagnosing basis, by the way most cams dont come with an advance or retard built into them until you goto higher perf. setup
Ill watch the thread for updates since you cant PM yet ---GOOD LUCK
if they line up check rotor and make sure it is on #1 cylinder---this should help eliminate errors and give a good diagnosing basis, by the way most cams dont come with an advance or retard built into them until you goto higher perf. setup
Ill watch the thread for updates since you cant PM yet ---GOOD LUCK
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 3
From: Eustis FL
Why not get yourself a cam degreeing kit, like those from Comp Cams? You will need to pull a valve cover and the accessories and stuff, but you will get your exact lift and degree numbers and have your own 'cam card'.
By the way, when I set my timing chain up, the '0' position set the timing mark at the center of the sprocket tooth...
By the way, when I set my timing chain up, the '0' position set the timing mark at the center of the sprocket tooth...