Well from my 2 years of diesel mechanic experience I have seen some interesting results of running Bio. Now there were a couple of guys that were running What I think was Bio but I am not sure if they were actually making bio diesel or just running filtered WVO. Any way on guy was running a GM 6.5 and the other guy was running a IDI 7.3. They must of went through 2 injections pumps each. They had all the heaters and even a preheater 2" before the inlet to the INj pump. I was told by our local Injection Pump Rebuilder that Bio is to thick for these rotary pumps but it is okay for pumps like the ones on the older mercedes because they are lubricated from engine oil also?

So my question, is it really wise to run bio on a engine that has a fuel system that was engineered to run on diesel. Obviously the basics of the diesel engine alow us to run BIO but I'm slightly concerned with our fuel systems with tighter clearances that were engineered for Diesel.

So the owners manual for my 05 6.0 says I can run up to 5% bio B5, I have read that some are actually running up to B20. I'm just concerened about really fouling u a $50,000 truck. And If I made my Bio and only mixed it at 5% would I really be saving any $ after purchasing a processing kit?

 

They were running veggie oil if its thick with heaters.

Biodiesel is a direct replacement for dino fuel. 6.4 do not like bio because its got too much oxygen and throws some sensors off. You have to mix it up a lil.

6.0 love running it just fine.

Do not confuse veggie with biodiesel.

Biodiesel will disolve the old seales from pumps and orings on the older diesel without viton seals. Like disolves like qualities. There are kits to change that.

 

Two things come to mind. If the trucks had fuel heating systems they were most likely using WVO. Using a heated WVO system works OK as long as you prepare the WVO properly. It must be filtered very well, and ALL water removed or it will cause problems.


If they were using biodiesel and heating it that will cause oxidation and polymerization of the bio which would cause IP failure.

 

So what do guys do that want to run B100 in the winter? It gets down to mid to low 20's F here in the winter at the coldest so I have been mixing to B50 and have had no problems. I would like to run B100 with heaters but if it causes problems maybe it's just safer to stay with b50. I buy my bio and splash mix it with dino diesel so I really don't want to start mixing different ingredients in the tank. Thoughts?

 

Don't run B100 in the winter use B80 or B50 depending on temps expected.

 

I live along the Columbia River where it gets down to about 0 MOST years. I've been running B-80 for four years with no problems. I blend and run my B-80 from early Oct - Late Feb.

 

Thanks Guys! Since spring time is here I think it's time to start adding more bio on each tank. It was 32 deg f this morning but I think it is the end of the cold season. The owner/manufacturer of the bio station I get my bio from said to use b50 to b75 till it warms up. I hear about guys using b100 in cold climates year round and I was just wondering how they do it or if they are just full of it.

 

Whats the best way to blend? Just pump the bio and the #2 into the tank and drive? Or do they need to be mixed together with heat before it goes into the trucks tank? Thanks

Kyle

 

splash mixing works just fine for biodiesel (just pump it in) thats all I do when I don't want to run at 100% just add in the bio I want then go fil it up or go add whatever D2 then come home and dump in the bio

 

From what I have learned bio is heavier than dino diesel. So I fill with #2 first and then with bio. Maybe it makes no difference?