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Nothing really to report , as I have not had time to remove the pump yet. I have replacement pump in hand and hopefully I will get some time this weekend to swap them out.
Kwik, I would love to come up with a pulse pump, but that is just not in the budget at this point. Especially when you consider that I would then want all the other mods that would maximize the benefits of that pump.
At this point I will just be glad to have it back running. There is something really depressing about seeing what looks like a perfectly good truck sitting in the driveway and knowing it will not start.
At this point I will just be glad to have it back running. There is something really depressing about seeing what looks like a perfectly good truck sitting in the driveway and knowing it will not start.
Bill
That would suck for me as well. Let us know how it goes.
Well, due to unexpected weekend guests I was unable to replace the HPOP until last night. It was not as bad of a job as I had feared. Got it all together and started up around 10 pm. Took about 3 hours, figuring in all of the time spent cleaning the fuel bowl and other parts as well as the valley while it was apart. It started and smoothed out after a few minutes and after verifying that I had no leaks, I took it out for a little spin. The truck actually seemed to run a little better than before. Now if I can get the oil all off my clutch so that it will stop slipping, life can get back to normal.
Any suggestions on the clutch? brakekleen,simple green, or just a little time?
I know the clutch was good before as it only has around 20k on it and has never slipped before, even under some hefty loads.
Because of the time I did not get into taking the old pump apart for a look inside but that will happen soon.
cool, glad to hear you got it all fixed, i gave you some reputation points for gettting her back up and running good. Changing a worn out pump to a newer one will give a noticeable increase in power, kinda like you found. I would remove the bell housing cover, and push on the clutch pedal, have someone spray brake kleen up in the area, keeping your face out of the way, (while the engine is off, duh). Then there should be two access holes at the top (not sure on the ZF6, but there are two on the 5 speed), use the included straw or tape a few together and spray all good in there.
While the pump was out, you did clean out the valley what you could get, correct? If not, the rest of the oil will gradually leak out.
Thanks Kris, I was thinking that the brakekleen would work on the oil but didn't know if there was a downside. The clutch seems to be drying out on its own after only 30 or 40 miles. I am able to get it through all the lower gears w/o any slippage but if I mash the throttle a little too hard in 6th it will slip. I will hit it with the brakekleen real good today and I feel like that coupled with the fact that it is getting better with time leads me to beleive it will be fine.
Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions and advice, this was really a breeze to repair but without everything I have learned or read on FTE, I wouldn't have had any idea where to start.
If you use chlorinated brake clean, it is non flammable, meaning it's safe to spray while the engine is running.
Most brake clean is hydrocarbon based and is as flammable as gasoline so you have to be careful what you buy.
I am not sure what brands to recommend, but with a little research on your part it woul be easy to find out.
Basically there is chlorinated and non chlorinated brake clean.
Oh, and when you get home, test it (outside!!!!) by spraying a lit candle, match, blowtorch flame and see if it will burn.
HC based brake clean will be a flame thrower and C based will just spray.
Thanks Kwik.
I am headed to the parts store now. I will be sure to get the unchlorinated if possible and will give it at test before use. Thanks for all the advise.