Hate to say it, but if the antifreeze is foaming, it isn't the antifreeze's fault, you have a head gasket leak more than likely. I'd check it quick!

 

Hi Tate,

Question (or maybe 2) When this happens, does the steering wheel always turn to the right? If so, how is your right leaf spring? Also, how are the wheel bearings on the right side - especially the inner set?

 

Two dumb suggestions but I'd take a look at them anyway.

1 - Any chance you lost a wheel weight somewhere along the line. Balancing the tires is cheap enough.

2 - Another suggestion. If the compressor used to fill the tires with air did not have proper drying equipment, you could have some water in the tires.

3 - I'd have someone other thatn the guyn who did the original alignment check it. Preferably someone who specializes in suspension work. The older the guy is the better.

 

Hi Tate,

I've got something else for you to look at. I had mentioned earlier to check the leaf spring and Wheel Bearings on the right side. I'm not sure if yo udid, but something happened to me this week that is going to have me send yo one step further with that.

I had the same problem after hitting a speed bump last week. Then my front end seemed to be "loosening up" and steering was getting loose. I figured Ibusted something - great!

I checked Everything and it all appeared to be fine and tight. Problem kept getting worse. So I had a friend of mine reef on teh steering wheel while I got under the truck and took a look.

I was horrified to see the entire axel on the drivers side slide backwards 1/2 inch when he turned the wheel!!!!!! All 8 of my U-bolt nuts (the U-bolts clamping the axel to the frame) were loose and the axel wouldn't move if you pushed on it or hit it with a hammer (with a board in between of course) but it sure moved each time th ewheel turned. I estimated that each movement was equivelant to 1/2 of a turn of the steering wheel.

I re aligned the axel and steering wheel, tightened down the nuts on th eU-bolts and it worked perfect - no more sloppy steering and no more jerking of the wheel.

Just another point!

 

Dan, do you mean the u-bolts that clamp the spring to the axle? I can't see how the axle could shift like you describe. If the axle moved that much, I'd suspect your spring's center bolt's head has worn or sheared off. I think I'd drop the axle and check!

 

I agree about needing to check the centerbolt head on Dan's truck. The centerbolt should index solidly into the hole in the center of the axle spring seat.
One thing I didn't see mentioned re: Tate's dad's issue. Was the front end lowered in the rebuilding process with lowering springs, leaf removal, lowered hangers, etc? I'd check the front caster angle. The original alignment was caster challenged from the factory to make low speed turning easier especially when carrying a load. Even at all stock it could use some help for highway driving without a load to push the back end down. You can get tapered caster shims from places like Mid Fifty (I believe the F1 and F100 used the same width springs) To tilt the top of the axle back more. You want it to have at least a couple degrees of caster. If it takes more than one shim to get enough caster you may need to replace the centerbolts with ones with longer heads (also available from MF) so they still index in the axle seat solidly as above.
If he is using the original springs, I's suggest dissassembling the spring packs and checking for a cracked leaf. Clean off any/all rust and corrosion between leafs, radius the ends of the leafs where they rub against each other, add HMW plastic sliders or wheel bearing grease coating when reassembling (do NOT paint the leafs!).

 

Yeah, the spring to the axel...what did I say.....to the frame....(da doy).....

Good point on the center bolts...I'll check those today. Only one side was moving (drivers). the other side was loose and wobbly. It took four to five complete turnd on teh driver side nuts to get them tight...And I may have exagerated some (who me?) on the movement, it was only 1/4 inch each way.

I have the New Mustang II Type IFS sitting in the garage. I got it because the springs are shot, and I thought the king pins and tie rod ends too. Just waiting for th eUPS guy to bring the $$$$ to get it welded in.

In th emean time I'll check those bolts...thanks for pointing that out...it's been awhile since I did anything with suspension.

 

Hi Dan,
I am slowly accumulating parts for my 51 f1 and I am doing so much research on Mustang II suspensions that I have confused myself, what did you purchase and if I may ask why? Got a handle (kind of) on the rest, but this is a major purchase and want to get it right.
Thanks, Ray.<O</O

 

I pulled my 49's front end apart this weekend. It had 2' caster shims and would wander a little when you got up about 60 MPH. When I pulled it apart I found that the PO had put the center bolts in upside down. The nut was in the hole in the axle and could move around a little. One nut was missing on the U bolts. After I found all this I was really amazed that it drove as well as it did. I put in 4' shims and longer head centerbolts bolts. The shims from Mid fiftys are 2" wide for the later models. They have a groove in them that allows you to cut them down to 1 3/4" for our old trucks. It made a big difference. Ran it to 75 MPH and it tracked well. Now I have to re-center the steering wheel.