Just picked up my Screw, and the dealer tells me that there is no way to mount moulded mud guards (or even mud flaps) on the front since I got the full cab steps. They say there is no room as the step goes farther forward than the tubular model. No problem on the back however. Does anyone know if there is anything that looks good that will mount with the full steps, and if so where can I get them.

 

I have the full cab steps on my SC and from what i talked to one of the parts people at the dealership he told me that they have to be special order but that they can get them.... check with a different ford dealer see what they tell you.

 

Hopefully I can answer your question in a few days. I just picked up a new 2001 Screw with the black running boards and the parts man ordered a set of splash guards for the front and rear. My truck also has the molded wheel lips so this might be interesting!

 

Thanks Neil, I'm interested in what they get for you. If they fit good I'd really appreciate getting the part number as my dealer still says they are not available.

 

I'll get the info to you as soon as posible.

 

Thanks. You are going to LOVE your truck! I've had mine for 3 months now 4.6L V8, 4x4, white and I just can't drive it enough. Fishing, hunting or just driving around, it's the best unit on the road!

 

So far I'm quite pleased with the 150 Super Crew. I bought it for the wife to drive to work, so I will not get to use it much. She really likes my 2000 Crew Cab 4x4 diesel, so I got her a smaller version.

 

Mine has the running boards also, and I found some Husky molded plastic mud flaps that fit over the existing bodywork and look stock.
They were only $40 too, compared to the $75 I was quoted by the dealership.
Wesley

 

This may help. This source requires you to specify whether you have factory running boards. May be worth a phone call.

Good luck

http://www.thefordsource.com/store/truck_accessories/items/splash_guards/f150_supercrew_moulded.htm

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 09-Nov-01 AT 11:20 PM (EST)[/font][p]Gtosher, I didn't forget about you. It just took longer than expected for the parts to show up. You can go tell you dealer (or parts guy) that he is wrong! There is a set of Ford splash guards that fit, and they fit perfectly. As you may recall, I have the regular factory installed step type running boards and factory installed moulded wheel well trim.

The part number for the front set is 1L3Z16A550FA and the number for the rear is YL3Z16A550CA. I paid $24.95 (list $28.93) for the front set and $38.95 (list $42.86) for the rear set. I'm not sure why the difference in price. It looks like it was a lot easier to make the rears guards than it was to make the front. Both sets are basically the same size as far as length and width.

Hope this helps.

BTW...I also picked up the Ford kit to relocate the engine oil filter to a new location. I probably won't install the kit until it is time for the first oil change. The kit repositions the oil filter to the outside of the frame rail, near the front bumper. A couple of the Expeditions at my office came from the factory with the filters already in this new location. There is nothing under the filter, so there will be no mess to wipe off after changing oil. Hopefully my Fumoto drain valve will get here in the next week or two. Once the drain valve and remote filter is installed, changing oil should take about 10 minutes!

 

Neil, Sorry for lurking but I just picked up my 2001 screw and have been looking for a good set of splashguards. I have the same step and fender flare setup you have. Thanks for the part numbers and prices.

I was also curious about the Oil filter parts you mentioned.

What are the part numbers and prices for the oil filter relocate kit and the Fumoto drain valve. Where did you order the drain valve?

 

TAC_CAT, you can order the Fumoto Drain valve directly from the manufacturer. Their prices are better than most of the distributers prices that I have checked. Here is the web site link: http://www.fumotovalve.com/

I do not have the part numbers for the oil filter relocation kit. The kit was part of the deal when I bought the truck...either they order a kit for me or I wasn't going to take the truck (I would have bought it even if they couldn't get a kit) I think the dealers cost on the kit was around $100.00. I split the cost of it with them. I'm guessing list is about $150.00. Anyway, it was part of the deal, so there was no invoice.

The remote mount filter is from the Expedition. But it just so happens that the Expedition is built on the 150 frame, so all of the mounting holes already exist on your truck. The kit consists of a new casting to bolt onto the block, the filter mounting bracket, filter head, filter and hoses. (NOTE: be sure you get a new gasket to install between the casting and block) You have to drain the coolant, remove the lower radiator hose, remove the filter, and remove the existing casting from the block that the filter and lower rad. hose are attached to. Once the new casting is installed, you can mount the filter bracket to the frame. (NOTE: be sure you get the three frame clips and bolts from the parts guy...they are not included in the kit, and you can not mount the bracket on the frame without them) As soon as you get the bracket mounted to the frame, route the hoses so they aren't rubbing on anything and attach them to the casting. The hoses are permanantly attached to the filter head and to a molded aluminum casting that you slip over two studs on the new casting that you attached to the block. Reattach your lower radiator hose, recheck everything, refill all drained fluids, start the engine and check for leaks.

I have not installed my remote filter yet. But I spent an hour or so this morning checking to see how things will fit. My biggest concern was that the fog light might interfere with the oil filter. Nothing to worry about, there is a lot of clearance. It looks like the worst part of this project is going to be when you remove the casting from the block. The top of the neck for the radiator hose is about 4 inches above the opening in the block. When you remove the casting, be prepared for an antifreeze shower. I didn't look to see if there was a plug in the block...if there is, maybe that will prevent the bath. If there is no drain plug, I think the next best thing to do would be to use a "wet-dry" shop vac and suck out the coolant. I'd rather have to buy a gallon of new antifreeze to replace what was sucked out instead of getting soaked. It appears that if you don't suck out the coolant, some of it may get into the oil passages when you start to pull the old casting away from the block. I'm guessing it will take less than two hours from start to finish to add the remote filter kit.