I am about to rebuild my 78 f150 4x4 400 and have a good idea on what I want in the engine as far as peformance parts, nevertheless, I want to get more advice/opinions on the subject before I do. Here's a list of so far:

9:1 400 pistons or 9.5:1 351C pistons
stock rods and crankshaft (balanced of course)
cam kit (204-214/215-225 @ 0.050")
double roller timing chain
stock rocker arms
1.71" and 2.19" valves (is this worth the money?)
maybe port/polish the head inlet/exhaust if time (worth it?)
edelbrock performer intake
600-625 cfm carb (electric or manual choke?)
all new bearings
oil pump (high-volume or stock?)
fan clutch (will this help with colling?) and fan (stock)
headers w/ dual exhaust (good mufflers?)

Thanks.

Chris

 

Chris,

You need to have a clear idea of your performance objectives and application for the engine to decide which parts are best.

What do you want the engine to do?

How do you want to drive your truck?

>9:1 400 pistons or 9.5:1 351C pistons

Using 351C pistons requires bushing the top end of the rods to fit the 351C wrist pins. Bushing the rods might be a weakening compromise, if you want really high power output and longevity. Depending on your altitude, 9.5:1 CR might be pushing the limit for what you can do with the 400, even with premium pump gas.

>stock rods and crankshaft
>(balanced of course)
>cam kit (204-214/215-225 @ 0.050")

Not sure I understand your cam specs. Are you referring to a range for both intake (204-214) and exhaust (215-225) duration?

Assuming you're talking about ranges, the low end duration (204/215) cam will produce a modest improvement over stock power, a little better than an "RV" cam. The high end duration (214/225) cam will make a lot bigger difference in power output, like 50-100% more than stock if the rest of the components are matched to the cam.

>double roller timing chain
>stock rocker arms

If you're after more power and longevity, especially at higher rpm, I think some stock-ratio (1.73:1) roller rockers would be a worthwhile investment.

>1.71" and 2.19" valves (is
>this worth the money?)

Only if you go with the longer duration cam and you intend to use the engine over 3-4K rpm on a regular basis.

>maybe port/polish the head
>inlet/exhaust if time (worth it?)

Minor port and polish is worthwhile, especially with a longer duration cam and more high rpm ambitions.

>edelbrock performer intake

I like the Edelbrock Performer EGR (#3771) intake because it has a better carb mounting flange than their non-EGR manifold. I also like the Weiand Stealth EGR #8310, which has a slightly larger plenum than the Edlebrock unit.

>600-625 cfm carb (electric or
>manual choke?)

Electric chokes work fine if you adjust them properly.

>all new bearings
>oil pump (high-volume or stock?)

HV oil pump is probably better if you intend to rev the engine and take advantage of the longer duration cam. Also, consider an external oil line from the filter adapter to the back of the block (oil pressure sending unit), and an oil cooler for high rpm durability.

>fan clutch (will this help with
>colling?) and fan (stock)

The fan clutch will help with engine efficiency (i.e., not powering the fan when it's not needed), but it won't help with cooling, per se.

>headers w/ dual exhaust
>(good mufflers?)

I've heard good things about all the major brand performance mufflers (Borla, Flowmaster, Dynomax, etc.). Your call.

BTW: When I refer to high rpm in the 400 engine, I'm talking about anything over 3-3.5K rpm. That's the practical limit on a stock 351M or 400. If you cam it up and use compatible induction/exhaust components, you can rev it up to 5-6K rpm without problems. If you want to do that more often than rarely, or even keep it over 3.5K rpm for any length of time, you really should consider the oiling modifications (external line) and other "high rpm" suggestions.

Good luck.
BubbaF250

1980 F250 4x4 Custom, 351M/NP435/NP208/D44HD-TTB/D60-FF/3.55s 6750 GVW, Rust & White.