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if i remember correctly from when i swapped my distributors a few monthes ago, you turn the advance canister toward the rad(clockwise) when the canister is facing the drivers side. listen to how the motor runs. it should load just a tad as you rotate the distributor toward the radiator(clockwise).
I think I read somewhere that I should keep turning it clockwise in small increments until pinging is heard on full acceleration on the highway. Then just back it off a little and it should be good to go.
I think I read somewhere that I should keep turning it clockwise in small increments until pinging is heard on full acceleration on the highway. Then just back it off a little and it should be good to go.
Is it fine to do this?
Yes. When you insert the dist. the rotor needs to end up pointing in the direction of number one cylinder wire of the cap. Before dropping dizzy in, check to see that number one cylinder is on compression stroke, and then rotate motor manually so that timing mark is at TDC.
Yeah, I've already done all that. The motor runs, it just needs to be timed. What I'm asking is, with the motor running, and the vacuum advance line blocked off, should I turn the distributor clockwise in increments until I hear pinging at full acceleration while driving around, and then just back it off a notch and be done with it?
Here's the poor man's timing light method. Rotate the crankshaft until the timing pointer coincides with about 6 or 8 degrees Before Top Dead Center on the compression stroke for #1 cylinder. Attach a test light between the distributor lead on the coil and a good ground. Turn the ignition key to the on position. If the light is illuminated, rotate the distributor until the light goes out (either direction). If the light is already not illuminated, you're good to go.
Might I ask, how accurate is this method? It seems like a pretty precise technique since you are turning the distributor to EXACTLY 6 to 8 degrees (right when the bulb goes out)...
Haven't done it, but I have read of the glass of water on the air cleaner trick, basically you simply adjust timing until the water stops shaking in the glass.
I've never heard of that technique, but I would think that it would be very inaccurate since the engine could really be anywhere in a whole range of timing degrees and the water could possibly be stable.
I use a technique similar to RCAs. Set timing at 8 degrees. turn on ignition, and then rotate distributor until points barely open shooting a spark across them. It usually takes 3 or 4 trials and is pretty accurate, working well for an initial startups.
Matt:
Any 12V bulb will do fine, even if you have a 6V system. This method is quite accurate, unless you have mega slop in the timing chain/gears and/or your distributor gears and bushings are shot.
I just listen for the 'tick' as the points open & close. Set at 8 or your preference, retard the timing by rotating the dist opposite the pull of the vacuum advance until the points close. Rotate the opposite way until the points 'tick'. You are now at 8 or whatever. Given that you have taken all the slack out of the timing chain by rotating only in the proper direction when aligning the timing marks.
tom