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Original Engine, Minor Issues.

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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 08:50 PM
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germanford390custom's Avatar
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Question Original Engine, Minor Issues.

I'm here looking for some answers. I have the 74 Ford F100. It's got a 390 with a Holly II. The only major modification would be the exhaust and the ignition system. I installed a Push Button ignition system as the OEM key ignition system wasn't operating as it should.

I have some issues with the motor I'm trying to figure out. First of all, I know it leaks oil, as MOST engines that old do. I believe, from the looks of it, it's leaking from the Oil Pan Gasket. Do I have to lift the motor to replace this gasket? It's 2WD if that helps.

Also, when the oil is completely full, the Oil Pressure only reads about 40 psi. I was looking at buying a Performance 390 or 460 from Performance Unlimited online. I was watching one of thier Live Run video's (you can find some on Youtube also) and the Oil Pressure on those reads around 80 psi. That's double what mine reads. And, when they rev the engine, it jumps to over 90 psi. What generally causes that drop in oil pressure on older engines and what do I have to do to get that pressure back to normal?

Also, I just installed a brand new stater. Yet, for some reason, it sounds as though it's still having problems starting for the first time in the morning. Once it's been ran for the first time, it's good for the rest of the day. It sounds as though the strater is not making a solid connection to the flex plate. It's tight, so I don't know what to think on that end.

Any assistance would be appreciated on these matters. Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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40 psi sounds ok to me. Is that at idle? My 302 cold at idle is 25 drops lower when warm then increases with rpms. Are the teeth on flexplate warn? Or maybe you do not have a good electrical connection. Have you check cables for corrosion? Did this same problem exist before changing starter? You need to lift motor to change gasket. I pulled the whole motor out of my truck to do oilpan gasket and rear main seal but you do not have to. Just lift as high as it will go after unbolting motor mounts and place block of wood under eash mount for support. Someone else will come along and probably have some better tips for you as well.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 73f100shortbed
40 psi sounds ok to me. Is that at idle? My 302 cold at idle is 25 drops lower when warm then increases with rpms. Are the teeth on flexplate warn? Or maybe you do not have a good electrical connection. Have you check cables for corrosion? Did this same problem exist before changing starter? You need to lift motor to change gasket. I pulled the whole motor out of my truck to do oilpan gasket and rear main seal but you do not have to. Just lift as high as it will go after unbolting motor mounts and place block of wood under eash mount for support. Someone else will come along and probably have some better tips for you as well.
Ok, first that is at idle. Once it's warmed up, it drops to around 5-10 psi and increases only by around 5 or 10 psi as the RPM's increase. I was wondering how these performance engines got 80psi at idle and 90+ at rev.

I've checked the battery cables and there is no corrosion. The battery is a 525 CCA battery (advanced said it's to small for that size of engine, but it worked fine before). The cables are all new, not the ones for the truck, but new. The positive from the battery to the Stater Relay is an adapter style, not the regular style. I was thinking of changing that. The ground cable has a clean and solid ground, I made sure of that a few days ago.

No, the started didn't do that before I changed it. It used to have to full speed, not it's only pushing about 1/2 speed. The ONLY time it's really hard to start is in the morning. I usually have to pump the hell out of the gas pedal to get it to start. That sounds like something with the Carburetor, but I just rebuilt it not a week ago!

I've even had to use Starting Fluid to get her to start in the morning, but I'm trying to refrain from that as much as possible. I don't know a whole lot about Holly 2 Barrel Carbs, and I hope there is someone on this site that does, cause I'm starting to wonder if I messed up somehow on the carb rebuild. I don't think so, but it's possible!

Also, the Starter Relay is new too. The ignition Control Module is new, the Coil is new, Wires are new, Cap and Rotor are new, Battery is new, Cables are new, Fuel Filter is new, Fuel Pump is new, Fuel line from the pump to the carb is new, carbs just been rebuild (as I said before), PCV Valve is new, Air Cleaner is new, Spark Plugs are new and prperly gapped, timing (as far as the distibutor advance goes) is right on... I don't know what is causing this!

Another thing, this morning when I went to work, it started after a bit of work, but ran GREAT! Choke kicked in and it was like it was brand new! I got off work and went to drive home and the damn thing ran slightly rough and when I'd stop at a light the RPM's would get really low and made me think it wanted to die.

Please help! :-) Thanks everyone!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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Sounds like you might still have a carb. problem from what you describe.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 09:29 PM
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If you have a Holley 2V carb, it's not the original.

Ford used Auto-Lite 2V carbs 1963-circa 1971 and Motorcraft 2V carbs on all circa 1972 and later trucks.

These carbs are the same, Ford just changed the brand name from Auto-Lite to Motorcraft either in 1971 or 1972.

Last Holley 2V = 1962.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 10:45 PM
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first off just to help you out its spelled HOLLEY. i kept thinkin, this guy has a jesus carb.?

but anyways, if you just recenly rebuilt the carb then it might need to be readjusted.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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Holy is to do with Jesus,

Holly is a plant usually seen at Christmas.

Deck the halls with boughs of Holly


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Topic:

Instead of starter fluid... just squirt a few ounces of gasoline down the thorat of the carb before you try to start the engine

If it doesn't fire right up after doing that.. remove all the spark plugs and check the gap on each one

Too many people set them to the largest gap ..not thinking they slowly wear away as they are used.
Set them at Minimum gap and re-install them.

Try starting engine again.

Still hard starting ?

Check the + terminal of the coil with key in RUN for 6-8 volts
Then
Check the + terminal of the coil when the starter is cranking for 12v.

Get back with the results
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
If you have a Holley 2V carb, it's not the original.

Ford used Auto-Lite 2V carbs 1963-circa 1971 and Motorcraft 2V carbs on all circa 1972 and later trucks.

These carbs are the same, Ford just changed the brand name from Auto-Lite to Motorcraft either in 1971 or 1972.

Last Holley 2V = 1962.
Damn, you know your stuff! I never knew that! I believe it's the original engine, but your right, it might be an aftermarket carb. Knowing it's a Holly II, what should I do? Try re-building it again or replace the carb with another brand? Should I got 4 BBL?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 10:35 AM
  #9  
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germanford390custom
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From: Seneca, SC
Originally Posted by Mil1ion
Holy is to do with Jesus,

Holly is a plant usually seen at Christmas.

Deck the halls with boughs of Holly


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Topic:

Instead of starter fluid... just squirt a few ounces of gasoline down the thorat of the carb before you try to start the engine

If it doesn't fire right up after doing that.. remove all the spark plugs and check the gap on each one

Too many people set them to the largest gap ..not thinking they slowly wear away as they are used.
Set them at Minimum gap and re-install them.

Try starting engine again.

Still hard starting ?

Check the + terminal of the coil with key in RUN for 6-8 volts
Then
Check the + terminal of the coil when the starter is cranking for 12v.

Get back with the results
The gap, according to Haynes, for my year and engine is .044. I have them ALL set to just that (maye .045, but I don't know if that will really make a difference). I don't have a volt-meter anymore as someone stole my Craftsman Volt-Meter, so I can't exactly give you numbers. I do know the Coil is BRAND new, and the Solenoid is only about a month or two old. The key is no longer used to start the engine. I installed a push button ignition as I couldn't get the key to work correctly anymore. One day, after installing my Sun-Pro gauge set, the key just stopped turning over the motor, After working for 3 weeks trying to locate the issue, I just decieded to install a switch to a push button for it to start.

Today, I got her to start without starting fluid. All I did was pump the **** out of the throttle linkage and kept doing that until it started.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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Mil1ion
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Next time Instead of pumping the accelerator just pour a little down the carb and try to start right away.l.

On a lot of these trucks the fuel evaporates thus causing hard start.

Also,some of these fuel systems bleed fuel back causing hard starts.

I would set the plugs at .043"

I need you to check the coil + terminal like I mentioned before to verify the proper amount of voltage is present when it needs to be.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 11:40 AM
  #11  
germanford390custom's Avatar
germanford390custom
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
Next time Instead of pumping the accelerator just pour a little down the carb and try to start right away.l.

On a lot of these trucks the fuel evaporates thus causing hard start.

Also,some of these fuel systems bleed fuel back causing hard starts.

I would set the plugs at .043"

I need you to check the coil + terminal like I mentioned before to verify the proper amount of voltage is present when it needs to be.
I'll try to make it down to Advanced Auto Parts today and see if they have a Multi-Meter I can use. I know this much, the only time it really gives me a problem is in the morning. Once I've driven it to work and such, it doesn't act up much the rest of the day.

The fuel evaporates? In these temperatures? It's only about 28 degree's this morning when I tried to start it today. It snowed last night.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
Holly is a plant usually seen at Christmas.

Deck the halls with boughs of Holly
tra la la la la .. la la la la.

BAH HUMBUG!

Here's anudder Holly ~

Holly Go-Lightly - played by Audrey Hepburn in the film Breakfast at Tiffany's.

Book and screenplay by Truman Capote.

and...ALL 1973/79 Ford F100/350's, Bronco's, Econolines and most a the cars used Motorcraft carburetors....EXCEPT > >
> > E150/350's & F100/350's with 460 engines. These puppies used Holley 4V's.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 03:35 PM
  #13  
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Funny. I stand corrected in condition with my spelling error. But, how does fuel evaporate in these cold temperatures?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 03:52 PM
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The heat from the engine after shut down ....in cool/cold temps.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 04:33 PM
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Oh, ok. So, generally, it would happen within the first 30 min. or so after shut down?
 
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