My rear tank doesn't work/leaks and I want to take it out. I don't quite understand how you plugged the lines. Do you have a picture?

 

No I don't have a way to send a picture, but let me try to explain it a little better. The rear tank will have two flexible braided fuel lines going to it, both with "quick-disconnect" fittings. One carries gas, the other is a vapor line that deals with fumes. You will need the appropriate tools for removing the flexible lines which any auto parts store will carry. You need to get one for 5/16" lines and one for 3/8" lines. If you have never used one of these tools, ask the parts guy how they are used to disconnect the lines the correct way. Besides being rather inexpensive, you can use them later when you want to change your trucks fuel filter assembly. You will also need to purchase two pieces of gas line (one 5/16" and one 3/8"), each about 6" long. Then you will need to purchase 8 stainless steel band clamps (I would recommend you get a few extra since they sometimes break being so small). The last thing you will need to buy are the two bolts used to plug the ends of the lines, one 5/16" x 1-1/2" long and one 3/8" x 1-1/2" long. Take the bolts and stick them into each of the same size lines (5/16" bolt into the 5/16" rubber line, 3/8" bolt into the 3/8" rubber line). Then put two clamps over each hose and tighten the rubber lines down to bolts. This will insure that you have a good tight seal and no leaks! Do the same to the other bolt and save them for the next step. Next, after you have the tank out of the truck and drained all of the gas out of it, you need to remove the pump lines from the pump. Care must be taken several ways! The first is not to cause sparks!!! The second is to not damage the lines coming out of the pump, since you will need to use them! I used a set of bolt cutters to cut the lines off the end of the pump, because they don't cause any sparks! Then I took the pump lines and hack sawed the cut ends straight and filed them smooth to get rid of any sharp burrs from the cut end. Remember you are working around gas!!! If you don't want to take a chance on causing an accident or don't have a set of bolt cutters, then you can remove the pump from the tank, shake the remaining gas out of the pump, and take the pump assembly over to your work bench to work on. You can then use a hacksaw to cut the two fuel lines off the pump assembly. You need to cut them as close to the pump as possible, and then clean off any sharp edges with a file. You don't want to damage the inside of the rubber lines if possible when inserting the metal pump lines into the rubber hoses. Once both of the two lines are off the pump and the edges are cleaned up where you cut them, slide the cut end into the hose (5/16" bolt into the 5/16" rubber line, 3/8" bolt into the 3/8" rubber line). Then put two clamps over the hose and tighten the rubber line down to the metal pump line. Once you have both metal lines clamped down, all you have to do is snap the two assemblies you just made into the appropriate sized fuel lines (5/16" into the 5/16" line and 3/8" into the 3/8" line). The end result are two plug assemblies that can be removed at a later time by using the quick-disconnect line removal tool, and reinstall a new tank at a later time if you choose to ever do so. I would suggest that once you have the plug assemblies installed into flexible braided fuel lines, you use a couple of cable ties to keep them secure from banging around under the truck (safety first!). As a closing statement, just to make sure that I have been clear about how to make the assemblies... You should end up with two plug assemblies, one 5/16" and one 3/8". Each will have one of the fuel pump lines, a piece of rubber hose, and a bolt. There will be a total of 4 clamps on each, two over the rubber hose tightening down the pump line you cut off (cut end into the hose) with 2 clamps securing it. The other end of the rubber hose is the bolt with two bolts securing it. If you have any more questions about it, just send another post and I will see what I can do to clarify it for you. The way I made these up it's nice because you can pop them out later if you or the next owner of the truck chose to do so, without having to replace expensive flex lines!

 

Is this clear enough? If not, please let me know which part needs more detail.
Tom

 

I'm not quite sure I understand what the rubber hose is for. I could see sticking the bolts in the end of the fuel line, but since they are metal it wouldn't seal correctly so I can only assume that's what the rubber hose is for. I'm not concerned about plugging the lines from the fuel pump because I'll be getting rid of the second tank completely-the pump doesn't work, tank leaks, I don't use that much fuel.

 

When you remove the tank, you will still have the fuel line and the return line from the switching valve body. These are quick connects to allow for removal of the tank. They connect to the pump lines. The pump is in the tank. By cutting the lines at the pump, you keep the other half of the quick connects. Use the hose to plug the lines where you cut them. Then you have small lines with plugs at one end and quick connects at the other. Reconnect them to plug the lines. If you, or the next person that buys the truck, wants to install a new tank, the quick connects are still there.

Tom, GREAT write-up. If I see any other posts with this issue, I will be sending them here for the instructions. Rep points coming your way if I haven't done so already. Great job.

 

I think one thing should possibly be clarified, there should be 3 lines going to the tank as far as I know.

One is the high pressure fuel output from the tank.
One is the lower pressure excess fuel return from the fuel pressure regulator
The third is the vapor line attached to a plug in the top center of the tank.

That's how it is on my 94

That third low pressure line I simply stuck a small bolt into. It's low pressure.
The two stubs that I cut off the top of the pump assembly I plugged with some JB WELD epoxy, then squeezed the ends of them before the epoxy set. I think this method is a little easier and less cumbersom that the bolt, hose and clamp system.

 

Rubber hose and clamps? I guess I'm just an "Old-School" guy (pre- JB Weld time). The way you mentioned sounds just as good as any since it allows for the ability to re-connect the lines at a later date to a new tank (if so desired) and doesn't leak in the meanwhile.

 

Glad to have you here Tom. Your knowledge will be a welcome addition. I hope to see your post counter continue to climb.

 

Thanks Animalistic,

One of these days you will have to get with me for an interesting story of a letter that I sent to Sea Ray Tech Support a few years ago, that as far
as I know is still posted on their bulletin board.

Tom

 

Thanks Animalistic,

One of these days you will have to get with me for an interesting story of a letter that I sent to Sea Ray Tech Support a few years ago, that as far
as I know is still posted on their bulletin board.

Tom

 

Hey Animalistic,
Here is an odd problem I just solved with my truck! I have been noticing that when I am sitting at a traffic light and I press the brake pedal down a little more than normal, the brake pedal slowly goes down a little more and I hear a hissing sound from the Power Brake Booster.

It has been doing this since I bought the truck a few months back. In any case, I have been using the Sea Foam cleaner in the crankcase, the gas tank, and most recently, directly into the vacuum system by disconnecting the vacuum line from the Power Brake Booster and pouring it directly into the vacuum line with the engine running. I have done this twice in the past week (per the instructions on the can) and I just realized that the brake pedal doesn't hiss or go down when I push a little harder than normal. What ever was causing the problem was cleared up by running the cleaner through the vacuum system.

I plan to continue using the Sea Foam as directed (1/3 can per time) once a week for a month or two. I can't believe how much smoother the truck runs, idles, accelerates, etc. It's almost a different vehicle the way it feels and handles. I can't say enough!!!

The truck has over 275,000 miles on it from the previous owners and I am sure the truck was mostly given just a minimum amount of maintenance done on it, probably only when needed. In fact, when I reflect on how the truck ran when I first drove it home, I wouldn't have bought it if I had the extra money to get something more expensive. Now I am pretty happy that things worked out the way that they did.
Take care,
Tom

 

Glad to hear it worked for you. I used the Seafoam myself a while back in the same manner but did not notice any difference. I didn't even get the smoke cloud that I was warned about. Could it be that my truck was well maintained befoe I got it? It was owned by the California DOT and had regular maintenance. You should still keep an eye on the brakes since the Seafoam never actually touched the booster. You may still have a leak and it is just being masked. Good luck.

 

Animalistic,
When I unplug the rubber vacuum line from the Power Booster, it sounds like a semi rig releasing the brakes. I can only assume that the truck doesn't have a leak in the vacuum system.

My neighbor claims that when he tried using Sea Foam it didn't seem to do much for him either. Then he tried using Amsoil Power Foam. He said that it really gave him an enormous cloud of smoke from his wifes Jeep Cherokee.

I bet you are right about how regularly scheduled maintenance helps prevent all of the build up like I have had in my engine. My neighbor is selling me one of his cans of the Amsoil Power Foam and I will let you know how much it does for me. The way I look at it... it can't hurt to get rid of a little more built up junk in the engine!
Take care,
Tom