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cv-drive shaft help

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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 03:30 PM
  #1  
bozzzz94's Avatar
bozzzz94
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cv-drive shaft help

I will be getting into the down and dirty of my cv shaft area within the next week or so and was wanting to hear of some pointers from one of you that might have already tackled this in the past.

My drivers side repair on my boot took, but yet I have a "GRINDING" noise from time to time as I'm in a turning radius. I think I might still have some sand or small gravel in between the knuckles of the joints/universals. A simple flushing and then repack won't suit my mind until I totally replace it. Before I bought my 1994 Eddie Bauer 4.0 extended 4 years ago the previous owner told me that he had just had the drivers side cv joint shaft replaced. Whats weird to me is that the drivers side shaft wears out more often. HUmmmmmm-my feeling is the possiblility of the amount of torque/load from the motor and the amount of power that is being applied on that side of the vehicle. The books show that they are of the same size and are interchangeable.

Most front wheel drive cars have more of an offset since the transverse engine installations are more off to one side making for one side's shaft to be smaller and one longer. I'll bet the longer ones wear out quicker since logic would tell you that anything longer would creat more of a vibration.

I'm going to do some research and find the best one for the most longitivity. Original equipment might not be the best in this case---if it was I wouldn't be typing right now would I?

I was trying to buy one off E-Bay a week ago, but once the bidding reached 50 bucks I was turned off. It was OEM, but I was skeptical of the item (all parts there-sight unseen). I do know that the prices rang from 50 to over 100 bucks. There are reman. ones verse new ones from various companies sooooooo to be continued..........
 
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 04:27 PM
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
How CV dies... Boot is bad. Mud and sand in winter come inside CV, whater whashes greeze, grinding sound appeares.... and we go to the shop to get new CVs. But we can inspect CV boots 1-3 times ayear and replace them in time, cleaning and putting new greeze inside.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 04:53 PM
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96_4wdr
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From: Washington state
i put in a set of Cardone Select, their totally new manuf. line
http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Select/default.asp

good service for the last 10k
tow with them

you'll like the price at rockauto.com site sponsor
 
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 05:01 PM
  #4  
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tc2468
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From: Vancouver
Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
i put in a set of Cardone Select, their totally new manuf. line
http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Select/default.asp

good service for the last 10k
tow with them

you'll like the price at rockauto.com site sponsor
I recently put on 2 brand new cv shafts (about 100 each), the price difference between rebuilt and new was only a few dollars more.

I bought them locally at a autoparts place, prob could of got them cheaper online.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 05:08 PM
  #5  
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
CVs life on aero is redused becouse they always rotates and under the load.

Installing manual t-case and auto ore manual hubs may easily sovle this problem. I dont like permanent awd. Of course central diff is not simmetrical (30% torq. to front axe, 70%-to rear) and if you press gas too agressively in skid turn rear axe skids first like on RWD van, but to drive all time awd car/van is not so usualll for me.
 
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