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hi ihave 93 ford 150 with runnin problems installed new cap and rotor,plugs twice,map sensor,wires and coilruns fine one minute then the next cuts out checked 4 vac leaks
when i changed plugs second time ran great 4 about 100 miles now doin same thing????
im boggled
last time i changed plugs seems to be runnin rich
plugs were fouled
if i put it to the floor itll respond but seems to cut out
cold or hot itll do this
Before I turn my 1986 ford f-150 with a 302 fuel injection,4 wheel drive into a Molitov cocktail,I decided to ask some other ford owners about my problem..I have replaced the fuel filter,ecm(on distributor),coil,(next payday is plugs and wires),and am still having the "chugging" problem in 3rd and 4th gear at lower speeds,like its missing,but its not,not that I know of.And with the chugging,comes the random,without warning ,dying,just like poof and it be dead.It usualy starts back right up,but one time it took like 25-30 minutes of crankin and cussin...that specific time it sounded like it wanted to start but was almost seeming like it was flooded,but i wasnt smelling any "extra "gas smells.then it started and went home.It dies at any given time and nothin i have done to try to make it die will make that dying thing happen.I am confused and lost PLEASE help.my chevy friend asked about the cam sensor?what and where is that on my truck?I wont mention the color of the oil,looking like it has water seeping into it,(like a head gasket is bad),until i fix this issue first,then my next thread will be addressing that problem.LOL I aint going anywhere,as my truck dies randomly(usualy in bad traffic)(lol) ..........help!!!!!!
derrickbort, sounds like the ignition control module, that's what my wife's mustang done, it will eventually get bad enough you can go out there and it won't start at all, then you wait a week or two and go back out there and it will start like nothing is wrong with it
theinkedone, sounds like the same problem you're having, on the 86 the ignition control module box is on the inner fender well on the driver's side
I know this sounds bad,but we/i looked and It dont have one.Thats what I thought too,all my other fords had one of those boxes.Its aliminum and has grooves on it,i replaced my share ,and i was gonna replace this one too,even my buddy said bull,there is one ,the i opened my hood and we did not find it,it has the square coil on it,(which i replaced last night).I had an 87 f 150 with a 300 6 cyl that did the same thing and i replaced the ecm and it was fine,i was 100% sure that was my issue source,i also have grooves in my new cap contacts,like the rotor is cutting it?
Im leanning towards the cocktail idea myself.....I should have looked for the reliable 300 6,Ive always had excellent performance and luck with those!!! lmao.I have to laugh....this ford has me just a lil upset(and broke)and Im moving in 2 weeks,(hopefully with my truck)
there are a few "wonder about" connections with nothing on the end,but mostly single wire terminals. nothing serious. i was surprized to see no box.I have been a for person for years,but this one might make me reconsider my preferences....lolor find a 300 6.....
it chuggs like its missing when i shift to 4th. It wont do 25 in 4th without serious chugging,but it aint missin,at all.it climbs up to speed smoothe but when i reach speed ,in 4th,its chuggy.
The earlier models had the ribbed aluminum ECU on the fender well. The later ones changed to a module mounted on the side of the distributor. As they get old the dielectric grease behind it starts to harden and then they run hot. There are two screws that hold it in place and you must clean the distributor body and then put new "grease" on it as you install it.
I had an 88 that started acting up and finally one really cold night it finally quit right in the middle of a major intersection and had to be towed 30 miles home.
This thing you guys are calling an ECU is actually the TFI(Thin Film Ignition module). And just in case you missed it the FIRST thing you should do when attempting to diagnose a problem on an EFI motor is check the computer(ECU) for codes.. this will often save a lot of time and avoid unnecessary work.
where on this P.O.S. is the computer to check the codes,and with what do i read the codes.Also my gear ratio is fine, ive had it on the mountains doin crazy stuff,and never had any troubles other than the snow being too deep and getting stuck.at least now i know how deep is too deep...lolI did clean the distributor when i put the new part on/in.As stated befor ,my 87 with a 300 did the same exact thing,but was fine after replacing that on the distributor.this one did not recover like the other one did...
so...here is what ive done and where im at. it turns out some of the other issues i mentioned had something to do with it all....(lol)...i found traces of antifreeze in my oil,the oil will burn but not that,that in turn fouled a few plugs,and they werent firing all the way,the feul system is ,well now my existing problem.I now have to "bleed the feul line at the filter, once it was like super high pressure,one it was sucked dry.Each time i bleed it it does ok for a while,bu5t is frustratint when trying to get the wife to work,if ya know what i mean...it seems like maybe there might be alot of sediment in my tank getting sucked up cuz of gas prices and not being able to keep it full.... it is gettin my 14 or so mpg's again,that helps..any way ,im still open for suggestions ,other than Craigs list it ...lol.My distributor was fine that saved me 140 bucks that went for the rental truck i had to get to move when my ford died in the golden arch supper club drive thru,gettin breakfast for the big movin day..I have twin tanks but the back tank is nasdty and smells nothing like gas.Can i just drop it and seal the lines, or, what ,if anything, do i have to do with twin tanks and a 302 feul injection.I want to drop the back tank and free up some weight,and possible problems.
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