Just wondering if anyone can tell me were I can get some good info on doing an EGR delete?

 

The latest Diesel Power magazine has an article on it. Its pretty good, the kit was bought from Liberator Performance in Carlisle, PA.

 

Look in the tech folder.

 

use the search feature on this site and others. I've never seen an official write up on how to do what you call an "egr delete". Are you looking to block the cooler, shut the valve, or completely remove the egr system out of the truck?

 

You can almost do the EGR delete for free if you do it yourself. take out the EGR cooler and put a block off plate on both ends of the egr cooler but let the coolant still flow through it. its fail proof and it doesn't cost much, its cheaper than a $700 delete kit. make the block off plates yourself, you'll see how to do it when you get it off.

 

Have any of you guys done this, and did you see any performance change?

 

notice lower EGT's and slightly better fuel economy. My CEL didn't come on. if you do this mod and the CCV reroute mod you can keep your intake clean. i used 5 can of carb cleaner to clean the manifold once i removed it from the truck.

here is the pic of the front block off plate that i made, the other one is just a circle.



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Is there a tune to turn off the egr system?

 

yes, SCT with a custom tune can turn off the EGR system but heat can still enter and cause your egr cooler to fail. i think that turning the system off and not putting in a block off plate will wear the cooler out faster. heat can still enter the cooler especially if you are using a tuner and the heat can't escape because the valve won't open

 

I have done this and did not notice a performance gain, didn't notice anything different.

 

at the same time that i did this mod i also cleaned the intake real good and rerouted the ccv. the intake was the nastiest thing i have ever seen. i was scraping the gunk out with a screw driver and then soaking in carb cleaner. so if i noticed any change at all i could be a combination of all the things i did at that time

 

Here is a write up I made today. I did the work last weekend and so far so good.

Sorry if it sucks this is my first attempt at a write up.

EGR SYSTEM REMOVAL

Getting started
Drain the coolant out of the Radiator, and disconnect the batteries. Then start taking things apart, First remove the front part of the air intake, then the intercooler lines (7/16 deep well socket). Then removed the Degas bottle (10mm socket) after it was out of the way you can get to the 2 bolts that hold the air intake elbow on the turbo in place (8mm socket). Then use a 1/2” drive ratchet in the tensioner pulley to remove the belt, once removed unplug and remove the alternator (13mm socket and 10mm socket).

After that, either drain the oil or I believe you can just loosen the cap on the oil filter and it will let the oil drain out of the housing. Then take the fuel lines off (11/16 wrench and I used a crescent wrench for the main supply lines) and remove the oil filter/ fuel filter housing. (Either a #40 or 45 hex head socket). Then remove the clamps on both side of the turbo (deep well 7/16 socket) the exhaust manifolds Y pipe clamp on the turbo can be a real pain in the butt!! Just try and stay patient and keep messing with it and it will break loose. Note: if you have aftermarket exhaust it would be easier to completely remove the down pipe. Once the clamps are removed take the 2 bolts out of the oil supply line on top of the turbo (10mm wrench) then take the 3 bolts out of the turbo (10mm socket). There are 2 on the front and one on the back of the turbo, it is on the driver’s side of the turbo and I found it easier to get with a ¼” ratchet reaching around the back of the turbo from the down pipe side. Then its time to remove the turbo, use a pry bar and wiggle it free from the mount. You have to hold your teeth just right and say the perfect combination of 4 letter words but it will wiggle free eventually. Once the turbo is removed take the 4 bolts out of the turbo mount (10mm socket) and remove the mount and turbo oil drain tube.

Now it is time to remove the intake, take the 2 bolts out of the egr cooler at the front of the intake (deep well 10mm socket) and remove the clamp that holds the egr cooler to the up pipe. I just cut the small blue/orange hose that connects the egr cooler to the oil cooler with a knife. Then loosen all the bolts on top of the intake (10mm socket and wrench) try and keep up with were the bolts that have extra threads sticking up to hold down elec. connections. Note: on the far back right intake bolt there is what I assume to be a ground wire that is held down with a 10mm nut make sure you remember to reinstall it on assembly. There are also 2 bolt the hold the fan shroud to the intake that need to be removed (deep well 15mm socket) and one bolt and clamp holding a fuel line (10mm socket). Remove the intake you might have to tap the Egr cooler out of the bottom of the intake with a hammer. Make sure as you are sliding the intake out that its not caught on any wires or the intake gasket O-rings.
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Making the fittings
Now that the intake and EGR cooler are out you can begin to make the bypass fittings. cut the exhaust flange that hold the egr cooler to the intake off as well as the coolant fitting that goes into the intake and the tube that runs to the oil cooler. NOTE: Remove the O-ring off the coolant fitting before cutting so it will not be damaged. Then cut the coolant fitting and tube off as close to the cooler as possible, and cut the exhaust flange off as close to the flange as possible. I used a die grinder and cutting disk.

EGR Cooler


EGR cooler fittings cut off




Through the piece of crap cooler in the Trash can!!!!!!

The coolant fitting and the tube will be welded together



Here is a picture of them welded together.




Take the Exhaust flange that was cut off the Cooler and weld a freeze plug in it.



Then plug the coolant fitting into the intake and bolt the exhaust flange back to the intake. Take a piece of flat bar or steel plate and tack the coolant fitting to the exhaust flange. Then Remove them from the Intake and weld them up.



Here is a picture of them after I put them back on the intake for a test fit. The Plate was welded between the to so that when you bolt the exhaust flange down it holds the coolant fitting in place.




Once the test fit is done it is time to pressure test them. I took the hose I bought to run from the new fitting to the oil cooler and hose clamped one end to the new coolant fitting and the other end to a air gun. I then hose clamped another hose to the other end of the coolant fitting and plugged it with a bolt. Unfortunately I didn’t get a pic of this setup but in this picture you can see the hose clamped to the air gun.


Here is a pic of the hose Part #






After a pressure test mine had a very small pin hole in the welds so I then slathered some Jb weld on the welds to make it air tight



Now its time to plug the Up pipe, Remove the up pipe from the back of the motor the bolts are 10mm and the nuts are 13mm. The top flange has a 2 piece metal gasket that will need to be reinstalled and watch out when you reinstall them they are like razor blades!!!!!!

Take a Freeze plug and hammer it into the up pipe outlet for the EGR cooler and weld it in place, If you just try and use JB weld it will blow out of the pipe Trust me!! In this picture I had JB welded it. Not a good Idea. If you are doing away with the egr cooler then you have to weld the freeze plug in the pipe!!!




Now you are ready to reinstall everything. Bolt the up pipe back on to the exhaust, Then bolt the new fitting on the bottom of the intake and install the intake. Once you have the intake installed you can now put your new hose on. The hose fit perfectly for me and can be seen in the pictures above.

Here are some pictures of it installed.






NOTE: I also welded my EGR Valve closed, this is not necessary if you have a programmer that can turn off EGR valve. I don’t so I wanted to be sure it would be closed all the time. On some trucks it may cause a code. I was lucky and it did not.


Now just reinstall everything in Reverse order. Take your time and make sure inspect all O-rings and replace if necessary, make sure you get all wires plugged in and all bolts tight.

Parts List Price
1 Freeze plug for the EGR Cooler flange .50
1 Freeze plug for the up pipe .50
1 Gate Hose Part# 18701 6.00
2 Hose clamps 2.00


Disclaimer
Follow instruction at your own risk, I tried to be as accurate as I could be but I have never claimed myself to be all that smart. This was not my design I’m simply just a monkey that seen and decided to do. So please don’t gripe at me if something doesn’t go right although no one should have any problems with this mod. It sure has made my truck run a lot better and was way cheaper then a new EGR cooler and Valve.

 

well crap the pics didnt come up!!! Its posted in the motor problems section on ford-trucks.com with pics if ya'll want to see them.

 

if you don't want to do alot of work and/or weld you can just fab up a block off plate for the exhaust inlet and exhaust oulet of the EGR cooler and still let the coolant flow through the filter. exhaust can't enter the cooler and even if the cooler fails the coolant can't enter the intake due to the block off plate on the exit side of the cooler. i used some high temp RTV on both sides of the outlet side of the cooler to ensure that even if the cooler fails it won't leak into the intake. i seriously doubt that the cooler can fail if it doesn't have exhaust entering it.


I hope this helps.....it sure was easy and cheap

 

that is a good right up though on how to do it. now i wish i had done the same thing and took pics while i did mine