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I buy a 351m400 to f150 1970 truck i put this in a stock car for a local race i want know tip trick all modification and convertion for raise my power and rpm up what part put on this the make average price and specification thank you .
OK - I'm not clear whether you have the engine yet but if you do, the first step is to figure out if it is the 351M or 400. You can find this by decoding the VIN number. There may be other methods - it should say on a sticker on the drivers side valve cover which it is.
The next thing is to figure out how far you want to take the project - and how much you want to invest. If you have a 351M, expect to get perhaps 350 HP, and with a 400 perhaps 350-380. You can get more if it is only for race and will use race fuel. Note that if you want RPM's these are not the engines to use though.
In either engine you will need a 4V intake and carb, a better cam, headers/good exhaust, electronic ignition, a 'straight up' timing gear/chain set, and a free flowing (K&N) air filter. Don't forget a high volume oil pump.
My motor was a 351m (b) 2v head i want horse power arround 250,300 hp.my budget was around 1500$ I want find tip for crank my engin with hands working .I have a problem my transmission is manual do you think a small block automatic transmission like a 302 fit in. you say I can't raise up my rpm
My motor was a 351m (b) 2v head i want horse power arround 250,300 hp.my budget was around 1500$ I want find tip for crank my engin with hands working .I have a problem my transmission is manual do you think a small block automatic transmission like a 302 fit in. you say I can't raise up my rpm
If you want 250-300 HP that is achievable within your budget (or close to it) if you do most of the work yourself. The 351M has a big-block transmission bolt pattern. The transmission of choice would be a C6 - again with the big-block bolt pattern. You will also need to swap the flywheel for a flexplate and you may need to do something with the harmonic balance as a result. Put a shift kit in the transmission and think about a higher stall torque convertor (only slightly higher though).
Engine mods - if you are going with an automatic transmission, go with a dual-plane intake (so that you have proper vacuum) such as the Edelbrock Performer 400 (fits the 351M). For a carb - go with an Edelbrock, Carter, or Holley in the 600-750 CFM range. Go with a Comp Cams 268 cam kit (lifters, etc) and put a straight-up chain and sprocket set. Add a set of headers and a decent dual exhaust with 2.5" pipes, an H or Y crossover, and turbo or Flowmaster mufflers. With the stock compression (8:1) this should get you in the 275 HP range. You would need to up your compression to 9.5:1 or 10:1 to get up over the 300 HP mark. If emission laws are not applicable lose the EGR and the catalytic converters also. I am presuming you have factory electronic ignition which would be OK below 5,000 RPM, but would need to be improved for revs over 5k. Again, put in a high volume oil pump and a K&N filter in an open air cleaner.
For a slightly higher budget, you could swap in a 400 crank and rods - making it a 400. You would need some cylinder work - at least hone them - to ensure consistency.
Though everyone here is a Cleveland fan, I must point out that for racing, the 351M is not the engine of choice and the 400 is not much better. The problems include limited parts selection and price, and the rev limitations...
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 07-Sep-01 AT 11:46 PM (EST)[/font][p]What is your cylinder work for fit a 400crank and piston that not the same boring. and i can put special gasket and put washer shim reear the relief pressure spring?
What is your cylinder work for fit a 400crank and piston that not the same boring. and i can put special gasket and put washer shim reear the relief pressure spring?
There's no other work that needs to be done to convert the 351M to a 400. Just figure out how far it needs to be over bored (if any) and get a 400 crank and pistons. The block & rods are identical. Which "special gasket" are you talking about and why do you want to shim the oil pressure relief spring? If you want to improve the oiling system then put on an external oil line and maybe some oil passage restrictors.
I see in transmission automatic there have a valve for pressure relief for clutch pack pressure and shift pressure when you put a shim rear that spring relief valve the transmission make a hard shift and limit slip .and the torque converter relief input pressure whit a higher pressure the torque convert ketch more fast and upgrade stall shift speed .but I think I see that on GM transmission whit relief valve I don't know the FORD transmision .in stock car the mufler under car was prohbited for fire my fit 1 pipe per cylinder whit 2" inch pipe but i think for better performance all pipe have a same lenght and what is the best size of restriction at the end of pipe.