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Here soon i want to pull the 351M of my truck and the 400 out of my grandpas truck and drop it in mine after i rebuild it it has 50k on it after it was rebuilt it is a camper special i want to put: the 9.5:1 pistons in it but cant find a price where can find them? i want to run a comp cams 268H series cam and lifter kit will i need stronger valve springs? a melling high volume oil pump has anyone ever had one that sezied up on them? i dont want that to happen to me, a valve job and all new gaskets what kind of power can i expect to get out of it?
Or you could just rebuild your 351m to 400 specs. (same block, as you might know)
The only difference between the two engines is the crank and pistons.
My motor needs more work than the 400 out of my grandaps 78 250 my 351 will be sent to a machine shop when i get the rest of the truck done until then i want a 400 with a little more power than a stock 400.
>i want to put:
>the 9.5:1 pistons in it
>but cant find a price
>where can find them?
Curtis,
To get 9.5:1 CR, you'll need some kind of 351C pistons, or the 9.0:1 Ohio pistons and some head/block milling. The Ohio pistons are sold under the brand names Nylen, Ertel, and Badger. Any decent shop should be able to get them for you.
>i want to run a comp
>cams 268H series cam and
>lifter kit will i need
>stronger valve springs?
You should get the springs the cam manufacturer recommends for the cam. Stock springs are only good for up to 0.490" lift.
>a melling
>high volume oil pump has
>anyone ever had one that
>sezied up on them?
I have seen a couple of Melling HV pump failures, and heard of several more. I don't know that I could attribute all the failures to the pump, though. Could have been other problems that would have caused a failure in any pump (like sucking up debris from the oil pan). A lot of people are using those pumps with no problems.
>what kind of power can i
>expect to get out of
>it?
Before you can have a realistic power expectation, you need to figure out exactly what parts you're going to use and what static CR you're going to have. Once you have that info, you can plug the numbers into a simulator like Desktop Dyno 2000, then take them with a conservative grain of salt.
I wasnt sure if the Ohio pistions were 9.5:1 or 9:1 i was told they were 9.5:1. About the cam its lift is .494 would that still be to much for the stock springs? With this 400 only having about 50k on it should i change the bearings too?
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 05-Mar-01 AT 04:25 PM (EST)[/font][p]>I wasnt sure if the Ohio
>pistions were 9.5:1 or 9:1
>i was told they were
>9.5:1.
Curtis,
The parts listings advertise 9.0:1.
>About the cam its
>lift is .494 would that
>still be to much for
>the stock springs?
Stock M-block springs will go solid at 0.490". Effective gross valve lift should probably be no more than 0.440" with stock springs.
>With this
>400 only having about 50k
>on it should i change
>the bearings too?
May as well, unless you want to drop the oil pan and do it under the truck in another 50K miles or so.
Besides, you mentioned on the "Beefing up bottem end" thread that you're aiming for 400+ hp. You're asking for disaster if you don't do a complete rebuild and balance on an engine that you expect to produce that kind of power.
Either way i will go with the ohio pistons in it do they come in cast or forged? The valve springs i will buy the new ones could i use the stock retainers and locks with the new springs? as far as bearings yeah it will get new ones in the bottem end i just will keep the cam bearings the same. The beefing up bottem end is for the motor that is in the truck right now that will be last for the project i need a good running motor thats strong until i get everything else done and then the big power motor will get finished.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 05-Mar-01 AT 06:03 PM (EST)[/font][p]The Ohio pistons are available in cast only.
Buy the springs that the cam manufacturer recommends, then use the recommended retainers. With a cam lift over .500 you're going to end up with double springs anyway. What locks you use depends on what type of valves you get, single groove or multi groove. Chances are the cam manufacturer will have those available too.
>The beefing up bottem
>end is for the motor
>that is in the truck
>right now that will be
>last for the project i
>need a good running motor
>thats strong until i get
>everything else done and then
>the big power motor will
>get finished.
Curtis,
OK, now I'm confused. What parts are you asking about for what engine?
If you're just keeping an existing engine running until you get your monster built, I would do the minimum necessary on the existing engine. Every buck you put into that engine is a buck that won't go into the monster project.
If you have a 50K mile 400 you're planning to use until the monster is built, leave it alone, drive it sensibly, and get to work on the monster!
The motor that has 50k on it hasent ran in about a 1 1/2 years so I want to tear it apart put all new gaskets in it and just small things until the truck is done and then i will start the expensive motor. So i want to have a motor in it that isnt great but a good motor that has more power than it did when it left the factory.
I found some BADGER cast pistons with pins $144 . they have a 10:1 CR with stock heads the part number is #400-100f heres a phone number to make order 1-626-869-0270....
GOOD LUCK
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Okay one more question im going to try and get that motor this weekend if the weather is nice and not raining like before when I get it i want to put all new gaskets in it new timing chain, cam, lifters, oil pump, and valve springs. I thought about the pistons and I really dont need them. I am looking at just going with the Summit cam and lifter kit 218/218 @.050, .509,.509 lift, lobe seperation 114 either that or i will get the same cam but through PAW with the valve springs does any body know how much the cam and lifter kit costs with the springs too? What kind of rpm range would this cam give me? any other suggestions?