Engine break in question
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Engine break in question
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 18-Aug-01 AT 01:18 AM (EST)[/font][p][font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 18-Aug-01 AT 01:16 AM (EST)[/font]
Just finished rebuilding my 400, and I have 1028 miles on her today. About 500 miles into the break-in I began noticing faint traces of smoke at the tail pipes at start up. I realize that some oil consumption is normal durring break-in but one thing is throwing me for a loop here.
It usualy only does this after I have run it for a while, shut it off, and then start it back up a few minutes later.
Could the rings still not be seated after 1000 miles or am I looking at a bigger problem?
A little back ground;
I did what most of you guys consider a proper break in...oil changes, initial rpms, varying speeds, downshifting at low rpms, etc.
modifications; cylinders bored .030 over, crank turned and fluxed, heads completely rebuilt, everything internal replaced with new, Edelbrock Performer cam, lifters, and springs. Edelbrock Performer intake, and an Edelbrock 600cfm 4bb tops her off.
Any ideas here guys?
Jim
edit- spelling
Just finished rebuilding my 400, and I have 1028 miles on her today. About 500 miles into the break-in I began noticing faint traces of smoke at the tail pipes at start up. I realize that some oil consumption is normal durring break-in but one thing is throwing me for a loop here.
It usualy only does this after I have run it for a while, shut it off, and then start it back up a few minutes later.
Could the rings still not be seated after 1000 miles or am I looking at a bigger problem?
A little back ground;
I did what most of you guys consider a proper break in...oil changes, initial rpms, varying speeds, downshifting at low rpms, etc.
modifications; cylinders bored .030 over, crank turned and fluxed, heads completely rebuilt, everything internal replaced with new, Edelbrock Performer cam, lifters, and springs. Edelbrock Performer intake, and an Edelbrock 600cfm 4bb tops her off.
Any ideas here guys?
Jim
edit- spelling
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: SE Iowa
Engine break in question
What type of rings did you use? Some cast rings take some mileage to fully seal. Moly rings should have sealed during initial breakin. I would probably check the valve seals. I've had heads "rebuild" only to find out the the guy saved the old seals hoping make a few extra bucks....now I do it all myself.
Stryder
I'd rather be walking through a hot desert carrying a Ford hubcap than driving a POS Chevy
Stryder
I'd rather be walking through a hot desert carrying a Ford hubcap than driving a POS Chevy
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Engine break in question
I didn't use Moly rings, I ordered a engine kit from Northern Auto Parts and just substituted a few parts in the kit, ie;cam, timing components. The kit came with either Hasting or Melling rings.
The guy that did my block work and rebuilt my heads is a mechanic on the Nascar Busch Series team so I would have to think he wouldn't pull a trick like that with my valve seals but I guess stranger things have happened.
I know very little about head work, so pardon my ignorance...but how would a guy go about checking the valve seals?
Jim
The guy that did my block work and rebuilt my heads is a mechanic on the Nascar Busch Series team so I would have to think he wouldn't pull a trick like that with my valve seals but I guess stranger things have happened.
I know very little about head work, so pardon my ignorance...but how would a guy go about checking the valve seals?
Jim
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Engine break in question
WOW! 
I figured with all the members, the experience, and technology exposed to this board I'd be smothered with responses. I thought sure as heck someone would have a good idea here.
Whatever....sorry to bother ya'all.
Later...
I figured with all the members, the experience, and technology exposed to this board I'd be smothered with responses. I thought sure as heck someone would have a good idea here.
Whatever....sorry to bother ya'all.
Later...
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Indiana
Engine break in question
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 31-Aug-01 AT 01:44 AM (EST)[/font][p] Well I'll step in here Motor-Craft. The only way I would know how to check your valve stem seals on the heads with everything still assembled, would be to pop a valve cover and stick a small something ( like a little pocket flat blade screw driver, but don't dig in with it, just push a little) between the valve springs and see if the seals are a bit pliable or hard as a rock. And visually look to see if they are broken. (chunks gone) OK I don't want to sound smart either, but since you mentioned you had not a lot of knowledge about heads. The valve stem seals are on the valve stems them selves inside the valve springs. They will look like an upside down cup on the valve stem.
I guess I will throw this in, What about the valve guides? Was anything done with them?
Superdave
94 Ford Aerostar XL 3.0L
82 Ford F250 4x4 XLT,400 CID,C-6 A/T,8700lb GVWR. Black & Silver
I guess I will throw this in, What about the valve guides? Was anything done with them?
Superdave
94 Ford Aerostar XL 3.0L
82 Ford F250 4x4 XLT,400 CID,C-6 A/T,8700lb GVWR. Black & Silver
Posting Guru
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From: PacNW
Engine break in question
WOW!
I figured with all the members, the experience, and technology exposed to this board I'd be smothered with responses. I thought sure as heck someone would have a good idea here.
Whatever....sorry to bother ya'all.
Later...
I figured with all the members, the experience, and technology exposed to this board I'd be smothered with responses. I thought sure as heck someone would have a good idea here.
Whatever....sorry to bother ya'all.
Later...
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Engine break in question
Superdave, thanks for the response. I appreciate it.
So at the risk of throwing all traces of intelligence up in the wind here...what is a good valve seal going to feel like when I check it out like you described? Hard or soft?
Bill, and to whom ever else it may concern.
My intentions were far from dissing anyone on the board. If that's the way it was percieved, then please accept my apologies. I was simply frustrated and obviously came over the wrong way. Again, my apologies.
As far as ..."my hotshot mechanic"... well, those were your words Bill. And as far as me contacting him about my problem...I plan to. But I thought it would be wise to get some other views first. Think about this, If I paid you $3000 dollars to prep my block, crank, rods, and rebuild my heads to certian specs, and later had a problem with something that you knew full well that I had little knowledge about (heads), wouldn't it be rather easy to say, "yeah, I put new valve stem seals in" and try to let it go at that?
Motor_Craft
So at the risk of throwing all traces of intelligence up in the wind here...what is a good valve seal going to feel like when I check it out like you described? Hard or soft?
Bill, and to whom ever else it may concern.
My intentions were far from dissing anyone on the board. If that's the way it was percieved, then please accept my apologies. I was simply frustrated and obviously came over the wrong way. Again, my apologies.
As far as ..."my hotshot mechanic"... well, those were your words Bill. And as far as me contacting him about my problem...I plan to. But I thought it would be wise to get some other views first. Think about this, If I paid you $3000 dollars to prep my block, crank, rods, and rebuild my heads to certian specs, and later had a problem with something that you knew full well that I had little knowledge about (heads), wouldn't it be rather easy to say, "yeah, I put new valve stem seals in" and try to let it go at that?
Motor_Craft
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From: PacNW
Engine break in question
Think about this, If I paid you $3000 dollars to prep my block, crank, rods, and rebuild my heads to certian specs, and later had a problem with something that you knew full well that I had little knowledge about (heads), wouldn't it be rather easy to say, "yeah, I put new valve stem seals in" and try to let it go at that?
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From: Indiana
Engine break in question
Bill is right about the stem seals, they would more than likely have crumbled on dissassembly of the heads. I knew there would be a response to the method I mentioned because there is really no good,positive way to check the condition of the stem seals while the valve springs are in place, which I am fully aware of. I will throw back in though what was done with the valve guides, were they knurled or were new ones installed. The guides can cause oil problems if there is too much clearance between the valve stem and the wall of the valve guide. I my self don't care for knurling as it is a temporary fix of sorts. The metal that is rolled up while knurling will just wear back down again after a while, where new guides will give you a fresh start with solid metal like when the motor was new.
Superdave
94 Ford Aerostar XL 3.0L
82 Ford F250 4x4 XLT,400 CID,C-6 A/T,8700lb GVWR. Black & Silver
Superdave
94 Ford Aerostar XL 3.0L
82 Ford F250 4x4 XLT,400 CID,C-6 A/T,8700lb GVWR. Black & Silver
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Engine break in question
checking the seals with the old stick trick is the only way to check that I know of. Also, care must be taken when installing the seals. I put tape around the valve keeper ridges to keep the ridges from damaging the new seals. I have seen brand new seals seep oil from installation damage.
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