I know old vehicles have electrical gremlins, I guess I can extend that to old doublewides too.
I have one circuit that handles both bathrooms, the hallway light, and an outlet in the bedroom. It's given me problems before on one of the outlets, it uses press-in connections and one popped loose, but then the whole circuit died yesterday. I got about 6v between the power and neutral, but I got full power between EITHER leg and ground on that circuit. So, shut off the main, tightened up all the neutral connections, checked the breaker, everything seemed ok so I tried again. Now I get full power across the legs, full power from hot to ground, and about 4v from ground to neutral, but still nothing works. No lights, nothing that's plugged into the outlets works, nothing. I checked all the connection points I can reach, they all seem ok and no more wires have pulled out.
Any ideas?

 

Kind of sounds like a GFI issue I had, but a PM to Dave or Tom would probably give you a good answer.

 

Agree with Mike sounds like a bad or weak GFI in the circuit

 

Reset your GFCIs and see what happens. If not on an outlet, check your breakers in the Electrical panel. (for a GFCI reset).

 

Built in 67, so no GFCIs. Also, it's a mobile, so the neutral isn't grounded, if that helps.

 

Not the GFI guaranteed. There weren't any in the 60'/70's until the early 80's. Somewhere before that particular plug, there is a loose neutral. You get to go through and check every switch, light and recept. Even check the bus bar in the panel. Check for loose wire nuts as well.

 

You may want to check the breaker for that circuit. I had one at my place for the furnace that tested full power until a load was put on it and then it was only letting about 12 volts to the furnace.

 

Hey Tom, do you have a fox&hound I can borrow, or have a recommend on a cheap one? I have a break in the neutral, somewhere buried in insulation under this trailer I'm starting to really dislike, and I really don't want to have to cut back tons of insulation trying to find a junction box.

 

I have a toner. It will trace every part of the circuit for you. I shall find out what my Dad's work schedule is so we can get it over to you. He works here in Auburn and lives in Port Orchard by the Bethel Garage. Of Course, I'm right down the road from where Dad works.

 

Thanks Tom-
I'm about ready to destroy this place. Appearances can be deceiving.

 

I want to see pictures on all four news channels.

 

Keep your eyes on the news-
The loose neutral was an outlet that was being used as a junction block. Missed it since that outlet had power, but the output wire had come loose. Stupid push-in wiring.
I have real outlets on that circuit now, along with lighting fixtures that don't have burnt wires, and switches that work reliably.
For some reason, while there is a 200a main disconnect outside under the meter, and no single large main breaker at the top of the panel inside, there is a breaker marked main that seems to be such. No amp rating on it, and it's the second or third breaker down on the panel. Worst thing is that shutting it off shuts off the house, so now I'm seriously questioning the wiring done in this place.
Question for you Tom-
Having a natural gas furnace and hot water, but electric dryer, range, and oven in a ~1000sf house, can I get away with a 100a disconnect? I can't find rating plates on anything around here, so I can't do the calculations. With a 100a main breaker at the meter, I should be able to use #2 wire for the run to the house. Keeping the 200a main means I would have to use 3/0 wire, and I can't afford that right now.
Are you going to be out this way anytime soon? I need to run a bunch of questions by someone who knows electrical stuff, like where to put the service at, etc. Or can I get a PSE rep out here to do that (do they do that?)?

 

Jared, yes, 100amp will be OK. Yes #2 for 100amp. 200amp., AL is 2-4/0, 1-2/0 which is much cheaper than CU. Or, 200amp., CU is 2-3/0, 1-1/0. Use #4 for the main water bond, strike with in 5' of water pipe entry and 2 ground rods, 5/8"x8' 6' apart, use #6 for those continuous connection.

Your service inside and out is done correct. Main disconnect on under the meter due to the fact your place is portable/modular. The 60amp breaker in the house shuts down the lighting system. Not the Dryer or Range/Oven. That panel is known as a subpanel and a split-bus.

Sometimes a PSE rep will help with placing your service in some areas. Seattle does help a lot, sometimes too much.

The soonest that I know I will be over there will be May 3rd. Races at Bremerton National. Will be over there sooner unless something comes up at Mom & Dad's place which does happen. Time to start thinking about getting the boat ready to go. The 19th is Lisa's Bday, gotta be home and the 26th is Tranny change out day.

Hate to say this, but Told you so. I knew it was a loose neutral somewhere.

 

Oh I knew there was too- I was just thinking it was in a junction box under the floor buried in insulation-
I have plastic water piping from the house to the meter- is that ground for the copper portion in the house, or is that to supplement the ground rods?

 

Then just hit the ground rods. The supplement becomes the primary.