Glad it worked out for you.
Frank

 

e1p1,

Please follow up and let us know what solved your problem. I have a 96 302 that has some similar problems. Thanks

 

See post 44 on this thread . It was the fuel pressure regulator.

Put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail and check your pressure. It could also be the vacuum line to the FPR. It could also be a plugged return line from the FPR to the gas tank. Should be 35-40 PSI and not fluctuate more than a couple pounds when throttled. If it's the FPR it might be a recall fix at the dealership. Have them run your VIN to find out.

Could also be a host of other problems, so always start with new plugs and ignition parts, and don't forget the plug wires. If money is an object, buy one long premium plug wire and swap it one by one with your old ones and see if you have a bad one. My ex-wife's Town Car was running like crap (suddenly) and it was acting like it was a sensor or a TPS...it needed plug wires.

 

I'm glad it worked for you. I read through all the posts to this thread and learned a few things. My truck is doing the same thing. I need to pick up a fuel pressure tester and check it out.

 

I just wanted to join first of all to thank all you guys for discussing your problems, with your trucks, and thanks to the forum owner for having this place for you, and now me, to gather to help each other.

I had the same problem with my F-350 CrewCab 4x4 SRW 7.5l throwing codes 41C and 42R(ONLY when checked with the CEL on while test driving and NOT shutting it off to hook up the scanner, confused about that one), after having done the obvious, change the HEGO, plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor, check vacuum lines, clean PCV, replace loose grommet, change leaking CAT gasket, weld up pinholes in exhaust, check ALL the sensors for proper operation, I still had the same problem, running pig rich, poor idle, surging at cruise BAD fuel mileage, then I stumbeld across this thread! IT CHANGED MY LIFE!

I borrowed a fuel pressure test device from Autocrap, the Irish guys did not loan them out (you are the better auto store, get with the program guys) and the pressure was 90psi running, DAMN that was too easy! Changed the FPR with one I had from a parts truck ONLY because the stores were closed, and it is perfect now. The only issue is the O2 sensor swings wildly from lean to rich but that might be because it is new or maybe the tri-y headers and big tube exhaust? Anyway, I can stand at the tailpipe without experiencing a WW1 mustard gas type attack on the eyes and lungs. I can even sniff the pipe and the gag reflex NOT kick in! YEAHHHHH! Thanks again for your discussion, it really helped my poor broke a$$ out in a pinch.

I know, blah blah blah, The only thing I had trouble with was understanding the codes and the discussions about them. I was unaware of the duality of some codes. I mean, wether they are continuous memory(CM) or key on engine off (KOEO) it really confused me, and some of the posters, not necassarily in this forum or thread but others I referenced, did not discern wether the code was from one or the other test, it makes a big difference! But I finally figured it out, I hope this little tidbit might help someone else out there just learning about the codes and others to be clear in their posts about how/when they got their codes.

Again, mucho thanks and I'll keep coming back for more info and any help I might offer, but IMO, YOU guys are the experts, those three bobble heads are just that!

 

Very cool when an old thread and my hard spent time helps someone else! Thanks for posting, and welcome to FTE. It's a real go to place for all car/truck problems (and much more, in the appropriate forum), these guys know their stuff (except politics LOL).

You wouldn't by any chance be good with Maytag refrigerators would you? :-)

Your O2 sensor might be gunked up from all that crud. Also try disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes, reconnect and restart and let it idle a while to re-learn the proper settings. The computer might be still trying to work as if the bad FPR is there.