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I have a 2000 F250 with the 7.3L and it is sick! The codes that came up said it was the PCM computer, however, I replaced the pcm with a new one and it still won't start, I have also replaced the cam shaft sensor but it still wont start When it was running it ran rough and put out a lot of white smoke for about thirty seconds before warming up. When it finally stopped running it would only get about 4 pounds of boost and was running rough even while driving. Have also replaced fuel filter and air filter. Any info would be great.
First, what mods do you have? And where are you reading the boost from. If you are trying to start it in cold weather, did you plug it in? Check the wireing going into the valve cover for bad wires.
I'm guessing it cranks over but never fires? Make sure that both batteries have a full charge (test them separately). I had one bad battery and even getting a jump by another diesel truck, my truck would not start. new battery and problem solved.
Truck was running with rough starts alot of white smoke for about the first minute. Truck was running fine when it was warm. I turned the truck off after driving about 5 hours. Tried to restart after sitting about six hours and the truck was missing. Truck would not gain rpms like before could barely get to 2000 rpms. I've got a boost gauge in my truck would not go over 4 psi. normally rounds around 15 not pulling. Service engine soon light came on. Autozone could not pull up any codes. Took it to a small garage they got two codes 605 and I believe 475(Exhaust back pressure) I've got magna flow exhaust on my truck. Truck would then barely start. Now it will not start at all even after replacing pcm and cps.
Auto Zone scanner will not work on our engines.. I bet the 9 pin plastic under the valve cover connector has separated.. Mine did last year and i got the SES light and running rough will a miss.. Also, got a P1316 code.. You can ohm check the 9 pins on "top" of the covers prior to pulling them for a further check.. This is a common problem with 99 - 2002 engines.. (Ford fixed it in 2003). It would be great if you could find a scanner compatible to our PSD.
Get an ohm meter (get a digital readout), you can check your glow plugs/injectors by unconnecting the 9 pin connectors at both of the valve covers (near top edge) and use the following info:
GGIICIIGG
G = Glow Plug
I = Injector +
C =- Injector -
Ohms between the G and block Ground should be 0.1 - 2.0 ohms.
Ohms between the I and C one at a time if one or more is > 5 ohms, it will point to the side's gasket connector or UVC harness being shorted.
You can get a ohm meter for less than $20.. good investment..
Is there anyway I can test o-rings and fuel pressure. When it started missing it also starting shifting really hard. Almost felt like it had a shift kit in it.
Is there anyway I can test o-rings and fuel pressure. When it started missing it also starting shifting really hard. Almost felt like it had a shift kit in it.
You have to manually connect a guage to the fuel rail to test the fuel pressure.
I'm betting that your fuel pump and/or the filter is badly clogged with debris and you are losing fuel pressure. It will make the truck run as you describe, complete with the white smoke. The fuel will not atomize very well unless it is under pressure when delivered to the injectors.
The hard shifting could be caused by the driver pushing down on the accellorator pedal just to maintain speed because of the power loss.
That will change the programming for the tranny because it is assuming a lot more power is being added and it changes the shift points and line pressure. Hard shifts are the result.
Ignore the tranny behavior for now and concentrate on getting the engine to run correctly and most likely the tranny will behave itself once more.