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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 10:40 PM
  #1  
jrquinto's Avatar
jrquinto
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What is wrong

I have a early 99 ford f250 sc lb. Today I went to start it up and the engine was shaking bad, and didn't want to run very well. I let it warm up for about 10 minutes, and it still did it. I pulled onto the road, and the truck was surging, so I stepped on it and it seemed to run fine. But then when the rpm's got down to about 1200 at 40mph, it started to surge and the whole truck was bouncing down the road. I tuned off the OD, which raised the rpms and it was ok. But as soon as I turned the OD on, it ran horrible.

I am thinking it is the EBPV but not sure. Any ideas? Oh got to work, left it off all day and when I went to turn it on today, it seemed to just drive fine. But still felt luggish at 1200rpm or around 40-45mph.

Thanks for any help.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 11:07 PM
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ryaneverk2
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What were the outdoor temperatures like when you had the problems, especially when you first started it up and had the bad shaking. Also, what weight oil are you running?

Some folks experience cold-weather romps, usually due to thick, cold oil when they first start the truck. Takes a few seconds to clear as the hpop works to build pressure to fire the injectors properly. Your issue seemed to last for a while, though, so I'm thinking it might be something else.

Hopefully others will chime in here soon.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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The temp outside was freezing around 25-30 degrees, but I had the truck plugged in. I am running 15-40w delo. This just seems weird, because we have had colder temps here in Alaska and it hasn't done it before
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 11:23 PM
  #4  
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guzzle92
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From: Northern Colorado
My money is on a loose UVC connector or a short where the harness crosses over the drivers side VC.

What you describe is typical when all injectors are not hitting.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 11:57 PM
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clintbonnie
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Did you get a SES light..(service engine soon)? Can you get your fault codes read by a scanner compatible to our PSD ?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 06:52 AM
  #6  
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F350-6
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Here's another vote for the UVCH.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 07:04 AM
  #7  
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greedy737
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UVCH or wires rubbing on top of valve cover, Did you have to change your CPS. Or should I say did you....
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 07:19 AM
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My experience with the valve cover chaffing resulted in a stall, not a rough running engine. But this would be the easiest one to check.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 09:41 AM
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Thanks for the response, I will defiitely check the harness. I am definitely not a mechanic, I know where the valve cover is, but does anyone know if it is very hard to get off? And about how much time would a normal person take to get it off?
Thanks
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 10:13 AM
  #10  
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Before removing valve covers do this ohm test on each connector.

Checking the ohms reading at the valve cover connector on the outside.

Pin Out

G G I I C I I G G

G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common

***The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.***

Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.

To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 12:21 PM
  #11  
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clintbonnie
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Originally Posted by jrquinto
Thanks for the response, I will defiitely check the harness. I am definitely not a mechanic, I know where the valve cover is, but does anyone know if it is very hard to get off? And about how much time would a normal person take to get it off?
Thanks
There are two covers.. should take a couple of hours per side..If you decide to to pull them.. we will step you thru it..
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 12:58 PM
  #12  
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Surging when not cold is a common dirty IPR or heavy oil in the ipr. Its under the fuel bowl.

If you have 2 people you can run an ohms test from the icm plug under the drivers wheel well panel to the injector plug and it checks connections via resistance for every plug in between. If your going to pull the valve covers off anyway. I cant find my disk otherwise I would post the wiring schematic for you.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 02:31 PM
  #13  
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clintbonnie
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From: Ardenvoir, Washington
What city in AK do you live... maybe a fellow or gal member nearby could help you read your fault codes.. It is a big clue as to what happening..
or take to a dealer and have them read .. not sure how much they charge..
 
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