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Today, I just got through having the passenger side ball joints and front brake pads replaced (with rotors turned). Last fall, I also replaced the brake MC and completely flushed the entire system, so the entire system (except for the lines and hoses) is in great shape. Job was done by a realiable local shop, and they did a really good job for me. No surprises, really, and everythings runs tight and firm now.
Observation... it was my inner pads which were worn down badly. Outer pads were worn, but really did not need changing - not at all like the inners. Replaced both sides, inner and outer anyway. Rotors were thick and good, so they were resurfaced as well. Rides and stops great now.
Additional context: I don't haul any loads at all, and probably average 40%-45% highway miles. The truck has a hair over 143,100 miles right now, had 114,600 when I got it in Spetember 2006 (nearly 30,000 miles in 17 months), but I do not know anything about the truck's "pulling" history in those first 114,600 miles.
Question: Is it common to have the inner pads wear out so much faster than the outers? What has your experience been like on this issue?
All factory brakes I've done wear more to inside because of drag on pins or pull of pistons.I always wandered if there was a good hi performance rotor and caliper that wore more evenly.
Rick, they said the slide pins were working well and not sticking. Their explanation was that when a truck is used for heavy load pulling, the inner pads get higher forces on them due to the alignment specs being very slightly toe-in, and the degree to which the inner pads wear faster is directly associated with how much heavy towing is done. Now, since I have no history from the previous owner, I'm just not sure, but the hitch receiver does show some wear.
The one good thing, too, is that both sides were worn in the exact same manner and to the same degree, which indicates good symmetry in the front end.
Since I got the tires from the same store, we're definitely going to keep a close eye on things, because if the wear was towing related, we should now see the pads wear a lot more evenly between the inner and outer locations. Otherwise, we gotta find where the "problem" is.
Rick, they said the slide pins were working well and not sticking. Their explanation was that when a truck is used for heavy load pulling, the inner pads get higher forces on them due to the alignment specs being very slightly toe-in, and the degree to which the inner pads wear faster is directly associated with how much heavy towing is done...
Is that why my Monte Carlo had more wear on the insides? How about my wife's Cavalier. My Dad always told me it was the way the caliper worked.
What were the brake pads used? 30k seems right to me for local (carquest etc) pad life. Sounds like a set of OEMs would all but cure the problem (100k+ mile pad). Ive never head of "toe in" affecting brake pad wear. Not that I "have heard it all". But weather the wheel had toe in, or toe out, the brake pads float untill pressed, unless they cant slide......"caliper stuck, stuck pins, etc"
What were the brake pads used? 30k seems right to me for local (carquest etc) pad life. Sounds like a set of OEMs would all but cure the problem (100k+ mile pad). Ive never head of "toe in" affecting brake pad wear. Not that I "have heard it all". But weather the wheel had toe in, or toe out, the brake pads float untill pressed, unless they cant slide......"caliper stuck, stuck pins, etc"
I would love to see the day that I can get 100000 miles out of my rotors let alone my pads.
I pretty much do brakes every two years, except this time they are going and it will be a year in April.
I have always used OEM, this time I'm going to try some cryoed rotors on the front, with heavy duty pads all around.
I would love to see the day that I can get 100000 miles out of my rotors let alone my pads.
I pretty much do brakes every two years, except this time they are going and it will be a year in April.
I have always used OEM, this time I'm going to try some cryoed rotors on the front, with heavy duty pads all around.
All of our 99-03 trucks had 100K on their set of pads, mine included. OEM is different then motorcraft, and MUST be specified when talking to the dealer. Otherwise they give you the motorcraft. 100k is lovely for a set of rotors, their life mostly depends on how much they seem to get warped, atleast in my experience. But the cryo stuff is supposed to stop that, garunteed IIRC. So warp free rotors (cryo) and either the OEM pads or they may also have an equal pad to the OEMS. I keep saying OEM, because its important to ASK for that. You say you do brakes every two years, whats your trucks usage? (miles, heavy towing, etc)
EDIT: I see your truck is over 200k now. Mines at 170, our early 99 is at 230k, most the others are right around 170k+
All of our 99-03 trucks had 100K on their set of pads, mine included. OEM is different then motorcraft, and MUST be specified when talking to the dealer. Otherwise they give you the motorcraft. 100k is lovely for a set of rotors, their life mostly depends on how much they seem to get warped, atleast in my experience. But the cryo stuff is supposed to stop that, garunteed IIRC. So warp free rotors (cryo) and either the OEM pads or they may also have an equal pad to the OEMS. I keep saying OEM, because its important to ASK for that. You say you do brakes every two years, whats your trucks usage? (miles, heavy towing, etc)
EDIT: I see your truck is over 200k now. Mines at 170, our early 99 is at 230k, most the others are right around 170k+
Lots of towing 10,000#, carrying 500-1000# of stuff in the bed/tool boxes. Something always happens the pins are corroded, calipers seize=toasted rotor.
I had my shop that does most of the work on my truck, that I don't have time to do, work on the brakes (they give me a truck/car so I can still run around). I specified OEM hopefully they got the right stuff.
My original set of brakes lasted 60,000, didn't have a lot of towing on them though.
Lots of towing 10,000#, carrying 500-1000# of stuff in the bed/tool boxes. Something always happens the pins are corroded, calipers seize=toasted rotor.
I had my shop that does most of the work on my truck, that I don't have time to do, work on the brakes (they give me a truck/car so I can still run around). I specified OEM hopefully they got the right stuff.
My original set of brakes lasted 60,000, didn't have a lot of towing on them though.
Well this hopefully might just help out, they need to use synthetic grease on the caliper pins. Never seize doesnt cut it. Not on these trucks. Been there, seized that, switched to synthetic brake grease, and fixed the problem. Hopefully the people at the shop you deal with, knows about OEM, and motorcraft. They may just call ford and ask for the parts, and not know any better, (i didnt at one point) But brakes are the least of any of our trucks concern anymore. If it needs a rotor, get cryoed. If it needs pads, get OEMS. Brakes last forever IMO with that combo. And Ive not worn out my second local rotors to even get to cryoed rotors. (And im at 170k). My truck also has a cap and plenty of gear, its an ECSB and weighs 8500+ (havent hit a scale in a few months) Towing, wears our brakes more, but I think you know that. I think the OEM stuff, with cryoed pads is our solution if it can be afforded. Now if I could just replace this brain of mine, with one without a concussion, I know this would all make more sense. Hopefully it helped some.
Well this hopefully might just help out, they need to use synthetic grease on the caliper pins. Never seize doesnt cut it. Not on these trucks. Been there, seized that, switched to synthetic brake grease, and fixed the problem. Hopefully the people at the shop you deal with, knows about OEM, and motorcraft. They may just call ford and ask for the parts, and not know any better, (i didnt at one point) But brakes are the least of any of our trucks concern anymore. If it needs a rotor, get cryoed. If it needs pads, get OEMS. Brakes last forever IMO with that combo. And Ive not worn out my second local rotors to even get to cryoed rotors. (And im at 170k). My truck also has a cap and plenty of gear, its an ECSB and weighs 8500+ (havent hit a scale in a few months) Towing, wears our brakes more, but I think you know that. I think the OEM stuff, with cryoed pads is our solution if it can be afforded. Now if I could just replace this brain of mine, with one without a concussion, I know this would all make more sense. Hopefully it helped some.
Do you think OEM pads would be better than the Hawk Severe duties, with cryoed rotors.
Do you think OEM pads would be better than the Hawk Severe duties, with cryoed rotors.
Last time I weighed mine it was around 8900 CCLB.
Why do you have a concussion?
I dont know about any of the HAWK pads, other then what others have said. I just havent ever used them. After my couple of local sets (couple of trucks, and with carquest pads, which usually work well for me) Ive used OEMS with the best success, and the cryoed rotors for warp free garuntee. So I cant say for the pads, and definetely not on longevity. Concussion is a sorta long story, but two weeks ago now, I heard some folks going around a parking garage checking for open doors, my one cap doesnt lock, so when I came back up I got in thier face about it (3 of them, but im a sorta big guy) And thats all I remember, got layed out apparantly, few hours later, apparantly also drove home. Dont remember a thing about it, or driving home etc, or hell even the first week and a half AFTER it happend. So now, im sorta still in rough shape, trying to help out were i can. And definetely feeling pathetic for 23 years of age, and being this stupid about things from time to time. Cops talk to me tomarro, but Im sure I cant remember anything. The fact I gave a description surprises me, because i just "dont remember". Its really scary that I "dont remember" the week and a half after it. I just dont know anything about it. I woke up, and it was a week and a half later, as simple as that. I thought someone lied about the date. Im sure it will be done soon, atleast I hope is all. There was another thread on here that caught my eye, but I cant remember it, or what I was going to say so..... On I go i suppose.
I dont know about any of the HAWK pads, other then what others have said. I just havent ever used them. After my couple of local sets (couple of trucks, and with carquest pads, which usually work well for me) Ive used OEMS with the best success, and the cryoed rotors for warp free garuntee. So I cant say for the pads, and definetely not on longevity. Concussion is a sorta long story, but two weeks ago now, I heard some folks going around a parking garage checking for open doors, my one cap doesnt lock, so when I came back up I got in thier face about it (3 of them, but im a sorta big guy) And thats all I remember, got layed out apparantly, few hours later, apparantly also drove home. Dont remember a thing about it, or driving home etc, or hell even the first week and a half AFTER it happend. So now, im sorta still in rough shape, trying to help out were i can. And definetely feeling pathetic for 23 years of age, and being this stupid about things from time to time. Cops talk to me tomarro, but Im sure I cant remember anything. The fact I gave a description surprises me, because i just "dont remember". Its really scary that I "dont remember" the week and a half after it. I just dont know anything about it. I woke up, and it was a week and a half later, as simple as that. I thought someone lied about the date. Im sure it will be done soon, atleast I hope is all. There was another thread on here that caught my eye, but I cant remember it, or what I was going to say so..... On I go i suppose.
That's crazy, I wonder if they cracked you with a bat or something. You pretty much have short term memory loss......amnesia.
My thoughts about why the inside wears somewhat faster than the outer pad(mind you it has been a long day). When the caliper first gets pressure from the brake line, the inner brake pad moves first due to less resistance. Then, when that pad pushes on the inside of the rotor, the pressure is then pushing the caliper backwards, pulling the outer pad into the outer side of the rotor. My thoughts about why the inside wears somewhat faster than the outer pad(mind you it has been a long day). When the caliper first gets pressure from the brake line, the inner brake pad moves first due to less resistance. Then, when that pad pushes on the inside of the rotor, the pressure is then pushing the caliper backwards, pulling the outer pad into the outer side of the rotor. I don't see where there would be a lot of difference in wear unless the slide pins where hanging up as others mentioned.
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