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I saw the post about choosing rearends Butt, I want to keep mine and up grade to a more usable ratio.
I have a 60 250 2wd with 3.43 and I would like to change to 3.73. Can this be done without changing out the whole rear end and is there a kit to do this somewhere..
Thanks-
Yes,I just had this done a few days ago on my '59 F250.Went from 4.56:1 to 3.54:1,and what a difference.Best improvement I've made on my truck.It was done in one day.Better mpg,I can easily drive 70+mph,and much quieter.RPM's have dropped by at least a thousand @ 60 mph.Do it!!!Steve.
On re-reading your post you said you have a 3.43:1 gearset?I believe the only ratios available from the factory for the Dana/Spicer 60 that you should have in yours (if it's stock) were 4.56:1 or 4.10:1.If I am wrong,I know someone will correct me.
Thanks Steve, I really don't know what i have in my 60 250 as far as a ratio. I would assume they are the 4.56 you had. but you know what they say about assuming something. Did you buy a kit or just the..well I should ask..what do i need to change mine and what is somthing like this going to cost?? Thanks Greg.
Greg,I had mine done at a shop that does nothing but differentials,and they are good at it.I am unqualified at that kind of task,and was happy to let someone who does them all day to do it for me.I believe that there may be some specialty tools needed,or that make the job much easier.They were as much as 500.00 cheaper than tranny shops that only infrequently did rearends,so I would recommend you find a similar shop in your area.I'm sure they could provide you with the necessary parts also,if you really want the challenge,but for me it was money well spent.Cost me 783.00 and change here in the priciest state of the union,Ca..Should be less in your area.Steve.
Greg, I swapped the original 4.56 rear end in my 53 F250 for a 3.73 out of a 69 F250 I was a complete bolt in nothing to change just pull the old one out and put the newer one in its place. It took me longer to redo the brakes on the Dana 60 than it did to do the sway and like Steve said it's the best thing you can do for improved drivability even with mine being the original flat head V-8.
Wow! Thats cool, I could go to a junk yard and get what I need?? and with a little effort do it myself? No special tools??
Don't underestimate the "fun" of hefting a 9" or D-60 around! they sure aren't light. You need to be able to get the truck high enough, safely supported, to get the rear end out from under the springs. That usually means taller jackstands and bigger jacks than a lot of people have for working on cars. But that's about it. Just make sure the diff you get at a boneyard is still good, and has the same U-joint yoke, check the width and the bolt pattern. Me? I think I'd go the route of IBuzzard if there was any doubt. Clean, tight 9-ers and other diffs are getting scarce. If they are in a 250, they've probably been worked.
What about changing just the Ring and Pinion like the Sarge was talking about, if i understood him right. Got to be good use out of most..Do you really think the they would wear that bad say on a truck with under 100,000? Thing is I don't want to worry about messing with the suspension and trying to keep my 8 lugs. Hell, i bought my truck for the eight lug wheels...and some other stuff.
Sgtwrg swapped the whole rear end, if I understood him correctly. Swapping or changing the r&p is the kind of thing that requires special tools, to do it right. My son has done a couple without the tools and has been lucky, no whining or clunking, but that's not always the case.
You might just work with a shop to both supply and install a boneyard rear end that they take responsibility for condition, if you aren't sure how to inspect one.
Excellent point! Thanks very much. I have just the guy to do the job, now that I think of it. I wanted to try and do most of the work on my truck, myself. Its all part of the love.
Thanks! Greg.